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Cooler Footwells

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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 02:55 PM
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Default Cooler Footwells

I followed several threads experience and put a 5/8" brass on/off ball valve inline on the input to the heater core Friday and hose clamped it down. I shortened the handle but tested it for pressure at engine temp yesterday and gave it a ride today with the water shut off to the heater core.

Much cooler footwells and noticeably so. I didn't bother with the return line because you get 90% of the benefit from stopping the flow. Eventually, if you drive the car long enough and stop you'll still get some radiant heat into the footwells but it appears to be from the engine compartment, not from the heater core. I don't know if there is Dynamat under my carpet or not. I'd guess not but that would help i'm sure.

Still, it's much better than it was and i'll leave it off for the summer now.

Lance
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Last edited by LancePearson; Apr 10, 2011 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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The thing that made the biggest difference for me was the horse shoe shaped foam collar that gose above the bellhousing.that cut 70% of my heat problem out of my 71.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 05:44 PM
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Default foam collar

Originally Posted by rugerm44
The thing that made the biggest difference for me was the horse shoe shaped foam collar that gose above the bellhousing.that cut 70% of my heat problem out of my 71.
Did you buy the foam collar or make it out of some non flammable foam? Sounds intereting but I don't remember seeing any foam in there on mine though I'd have to admit I haven't looked that critically at that area.

Who did you buy it from and what is it made of? Has to be non flammable I'd think.

Thanks.

Lance
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 05:58 PM
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found it at zip products and ordered it....68-79 Shifter Tunnel Insulation Collar ZM-2548
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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One of them is a foam collar and the other one is a shield that gose above the tranny.I haven't installed that one yet due to transmission removal to get it in.just putting in the foam collar helped a whole lot.I have a heater shut off valve that came with the vintageair kit I bought that takes care of the heater core heating up.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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When the foam comes I'll put it on the ramps or jack stands and look carefully under there. I don't like taking the interior trim off the tunnel so will put it in if I can glue it in place above from below. Whoever designed the Vette's interior really didn't design it with the idea that it would be taken out and put back in more than once or twice in it's life in my humble opinion.

I'll have the part in a week and will stick it in in a little while. I have the 3m high temp spray adhesive already from putting in the modern aerospace hood foam liner and getting rid of the cheesy looking fiberglass. Why didn't Corvette in those days give a thought to how the inside of the engine compartment looked? We all sure do. those weren't things which cost much money either though nowadays we have some more sophisticted products than they did in the 60's and 70's. Thanks for the suggestion. Between this and the hot water valve already installed that's all I'll do. You do need the heat in spring and fall and winter here when you drive around with your t tops stored on the garage shelf in their naughahyde bags.

Lance
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:12 PM
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You don't need any glue to hold the foam collar in place, it will stay put as it is compressed when installed.

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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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To put the foam collar in, do you have to drop the transmission or can you just shove it down in there? Just wondering, I may get one but not if I have to drop the tranny to do it.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dgood
To put the foam collar in, do you have to drop the transmission or can you just shove it down in there? Just wondering, I may get one but not if I have to drop the tranny to do it.
I just did this yesterday. You can push it into place without dropping the tranny. I pushed it up one side as far as it would go, then I reached over the top of the tranny from the other side and pulled it the rest of the way into place.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dgood
To put the foam collar in, do you have to drop the transmission or can you just shove it down in there? Just wondering, I may get one but not if I have to drop the tranny to do it.
The foam just gets pushed onto the trany from the top.
The trany blanket can be cut down the middle, installed and taped closed, or pull the transmission. I did mine when I changed the engine.

Lance, I had another 74 back in 77 and I never cleaned the engine. It's different today, we like to show off the shiny stuff under the hood.
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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I got a vacuum controlled water shutoff valve from Chevrolet that was OEM on an earlier year car. I got the vacuum shutoff switch that was used for the windsheild wiper cover on the 68-72 cars and mounted it under the steering column. Ran an extra vacuum line to it and then to the water valve. Only an NCRS judge would know the difference.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:59 PM
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The AIM shows a foam block glued to the tranny....now to look and see what I have because heat does come into the tunnel and when i get a chance I'll put the new one in as noted. valve helped a lot but this should do more as I suspect there is no blocking left at this stage. Thanks again for all the help.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Don't forget to check your air dam in front of the radiator.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Kahle76
Don't forget to check your air dam in front of the radiator.
What are we looking for checking the air dam in front of the radiator...something like plastic bags or trash blocking? Please explain.

thanks.

lance
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by LancePearson
What are we looking for checking the air dam in front of the radiator...something like plastic bags or trash blocking? Please explain.

thanks.

lance
The 'air dam' is the little black spoiler looking thing bolted to the very front bottom fiberglass. It redirects air up towards the radiator. I think a lot of people in the past have removed these because they tend to get dinged up pretty good, and look bad. But they do play a big role in keeping the engine cool at highway speeds.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gcusmano74
I got a vacuum controlled water shutoff valve from Chevrolet that was OEM on an earlier year car. I got the vacuum shutoff switch that was used for the windsheild wiper cover on the 68-72 cars and mounted it under the steering column. Ran an extra vacuum line to it and then to the water valve. Only an NCRS judge would know the difference.
72's didn't come from the factory with a vacuum cutoff, so I did the same thing, and baught a vacuum bypass from a later model ford. I mounted it down by the heater core where it won't be seen.

One thing I did different is that I tied the vacuum source into the AC/Heater control module. I noticed that in the AIM it showed one of the control lines from the controller as having vacuum with the system either off, or with the AC on. I tee'd my vacuum source for the bypass into this vacuum line. So now my heater core is automatically bypassed with the 4 seasons system off, or with the AC on.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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Thanks, Mashman...got it. Mine is in place but I did check the front bottom of the radiator for trash too. I run a 180 degree thermostat which I like better. Have the foam to install in the tunnel next time car is up. the factory one on the bell housing is glued in place on my...can see from open hood into engine compartment.

lance
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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Default Keeping Cool!

There is a lower shift boot, if it's bad a lot of heat gets into the cockpit. If your going to do the foam and the blanket now is a good time to check that.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
There is a lower shift boot, if it's bad a lot of heat gets into the cockpit. If your going to do the foam and the blanket now is a good time to check that.
I did the lower rubber shift boot on the 4spd because it was cracked and put a new leather boot on as well so that's done. I have the foam but won't put it in until the next time I jack the car up and crawl around down there.

Right now I'm not messing with anything since the car is ready for the track day in three weeks from today.

Lance
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 08:04 PM
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Wrap your exhaust pipes. If you have headers start where they end and wrap all the way back to the muflers. If you don't have headers but plan on getting some, get the ceremic coated ones. They will really help get that heat out the back.
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