1968 chassis assembly questions
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 680
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From: charlotte N.C
1968 chassis assembly questions
Well I am almost at the point of having a rolling chassis again. I finished up the trailing arms this week and the differential over the summer and everything in between so now all I have to do is install them. When thinking of what need to be done next I came up to two questions.
1. Unfortunately when I originally removing the trailing arms I didn’t note the shim location. I have looked back though the pictures and can’t find anything that will help. What is a general amount of shims should I put on each side? I’ll let the alignment shop do the fine tuning but I need something in there for the time being. I have the shims with the slotted opening so it shouldn’t be too much of a hassle to switch them out.
2. I was also wondering, how do you unbent new vapor, brake, and fuel lines? I bought all new SS pre-bent lines but for the lines to fit in the boxes the long ones have to be bent in half. Can I just bend it back by hand or is there a special tool or method so I don’t toss away my money.
Thanks
1. Unfortunately when I originally removing the trailing arms I didn’t note the shim location. I have looked back though the pictures and can’t find anything that will help. What is a general amount of shims should I put on each side? I’ll let the alignment shop do the fine tuning but I need something in there for the time being. I have the shims with the slotted opening so it shouldn’t be too much of a hassle to switch them out.
2. I was also wondering, how do you unbent new vapor, brake, and fuel lines? I bought all new SS pre-bent lines but for the lines to fit in the boxes the long ones have to be bent in half. Can I just bend it back by hand or is there a special tool or method so I don’t toss away my money.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
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As far as the shims, install equal amount on both sides of TA. Do not torque the bolts untill everything is back on the car. Just use a cotter pin to keep the nut from backing off. The last shim on left and right side of car should be tight enough that you have to lightly tap shim into the pocket with small hammer to remove all slack so when you do finally torque the bolts the pocket does not collapse. That of course comes later. mike...
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 183
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76,
For your fuel lines, I would find a hose and fitting company in your area that does it or google "tubes and hoses" and you may get a result of a franchise near you, they can bend whatever you need. Either bring them the old ones or bring them the chassis. I bought the brake lines from corvette central and un-bent them, the fuel lines I used "AZ Tubes and Hoses". I replaced my #4 and #6 with a #6 and an #8. The brake line kit fitment was A1.
I also ordered all new clips for the brake lines, it looks great when done.
Steve
For your fuel lines, I would find a hose and fitting company in your area that does it or google "tubes and hoses" and you may get a result of a franchise near you, they can bend whatever you need. Either bring them the old ones or bring them the chassis. I bought the brake lines from corvette central and un-bent them, the fuel lines I used "AZ Tubes and Hoses". I replaced my #4 and #6 with a #6 and an #8. The brake line kit fitment was A1.
I also ordered all new clips for the brake lines, it looks great when done.
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 76,
I think Steve thought you don't have new lines... I'm reading that you do.
The ss lines are usually bent in an area that was perfectly straight to begin with.
You can use your hands to carefully straighten the bends out. It's pretty easy with the Bundy steel lines, but the ss lines take a bit of muscle because they are a good bit stiffer.
Frame looks VERY nice. More pictures, PLEASE!
Regards,
Alan
I think Steve thought you don't have new lines... I'm reading that you do.
The ss lines are usually bent in an area that was perfectly straight to begin with.
You can use your hands to carefully straighten the bends out. It's pretty easy with the Bundy steel lines, but the ss lines take a bit of muscle because they are a good bit stiffer.
Frame looks VERY nice. More pictures, PLEASE!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Apr 16, 2011 at 05:11 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 680
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From: charlotte N.C
Thanks guys for the help. That’s what I figured but I wanted to ask first so I don’t snap any lines. When I bought this car the fuel lines were rusted through, like bad, and there was a rubber hose instead connecting the two ends.
I lived in AZ for 5 years and kind of miss the dry non humid heat.
Thanks for the compliments. It has been a project but well worth it. What better way to learn how a car works then to rebuild it from the ground up. Here are a few more pictures of parts that hopefully will be on the chassis soon.
This is how I spent my 3 month summer break. Fun stuff. Could have never done it without Gary's help.
Just ready to see it all come together
I lived in AZ for 5 years and kind of miss the dry non humid heat.Thanks for the compliments. It has been a project but well worth it. What better way to learn how a car works then to rebuild it from the ground up. Here are a few more pictures of parts that hopefully will be on the chassis soon.
This is how I spent my 3 month summer break. Fun stuff. Could have never done it without Gary's help.
Just ready to see it all come together
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From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
where can I get a trans crossmember -like yours- with the dual exhaust holes? mine is an 80 model.anyone ?????
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thanks.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: charlotte N.C
I removed it to save on weight Na, they installed the gussets on the kick up area in mid 68s. Mine is a early production 68.
Thanks Alan. Hopefully I will be able to post pictures of it rolling soon.
mikejpss - This might be it. I would look for a wrecked parts car. The auto trans cross member are bolt in and the manuals are welded in.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&
Na, they installed the gussets on the kick up area in mid 68s. Mine is a early production 68.Thanks Alan. Hopefully I will be able to post pictures of it rolling soon.
mikejpss - This might be it. I would look for a wrecked parts car. The auto trans cross member are bolt in and the manuals are welded in.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&
