Left side dash panel removal
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
Left side dash panel removal
I've gutted the whole interior of my '70, except the driver side dash panel. Removed steering column (non-telescoping) support bolts and disconnected electrical connector by the hinge pillar. Also, speedometer & tach cables are loose on engine side. Can't lower the steering column enough to remove the panel.
Do I have to open the column connection at the steering box? If so, will I have any grief reassembling it?
Do I have to open the column connection at the steering box? If so, will I have any grief reassembling it?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,267
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Bob,
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
Last edited by Alan 71; Apr 18, 2011 at 06:10 PM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 3
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
Hi Bob,
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
That's how you do it. Really easy apart from getting to those flange bolts! you may be able to get the dash face out without performing this operation but I sure as heck couldn't. Don't forget to replace any dashlight bulbs while you are back there! I found 6 that were blown but the dash still illuminated ok.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 331
Likes: 44
From: Cincinnati Ohio
You didn't state if Roadster, if it is you have several support raods that also go to support column, you will need to remove them.
You will also need to disconnect tach and speedo cables at the Gage. When you get the column to drop you can access the cables and dash wiring. You need to unplug the individual light sockets and the ground plugs to tach and speedo. Last step is to bend back the wiring harness bundle straps to release the harness.
It is a miserable job, but just take your time and don't force it.
Unk
You will also need to disconnect tach and speedo cables at the Gage. When you get the column to drop you can access the cables and dash wiring. You need to unplug the individual light sockets and the ground plugs to tach and speedo. Last step is to bend back the wiring harness bundle straps to release the harness.
It is a miserable job, but just take your time and don't force it.
Unk
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
Thanks guys. I've located the bolts. Can see that they'll be hard to get at - but hopefully not too bad. Hope that putting them back won't be any harder. Thanks for the light bulb tip. Replacing all the bulbs, fixing the hvac duct and cleaning up the wiring are the reasons I want to remove it. Otherwise the panel is in good shape.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 310
Likes: 25
From: Brisbane Australia
I couldn't get the last column bolt on my 68 to turn so I went through the following process which may be an option for you:
- remove the steering wheel (just so access is easier)
- remove all the screws holding the pad on
- slide the pad forwards so that the top can be popped out from under the dash pad
- now you have a bit of access room, reach behind it from the sides and underneath and remove all cables and bulb connections
- then I actually removed the tach and speedo from the rear of the panel (they have 1 screw and 3 small hex bolts/screws each, tricky to get to but can be done)
- remove the air vent from the lower right (held by 3 screws)
- once the instruments were out I found I could manouvre the panel out the gap by the door frame
Not and ideal removal option, but something to keep in mind if you get stuck like I did.
- remove the steering wheel (just so access is easier)
- remove all the screws holding the pad on
- slide the pad forwards so that the top can be popped out from under the dash pad
- now you have a bit of access room, reach behind it from the sides and underneath and remove all cables and bulb connections
- then I actually removed the tach and speedo from the rear of the panel (they have 1 screw and 3 small hex bolts/screws each, tricky to get to but can be done)
- remove the air vent from the lower right (held by 3 screws)
- once the instruments were out I found I could manouvre the panel out the gap by the door frame
Not and ideal removal option, but something to keep in mind if you get stuck like I did.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
I've R&R'd my '69 left side dash more than half a dozen times. I never needed to totally remove the steering column. Besides the tach and speedo cables, the big hangup was the rather large plug into the headlight switch.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,381
Likes: 416
From: N J
Not the most fun project I have done on my 68 but I was able to remove mine without touching the rag joint, just the bolts under the column and inside the car at the firewall. I marked everything and took lots of pics. Am I glad I did cause 10 minutes after removing it I forgot what went where.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
Thanks for all the help. It's finally out. My '70 is a roadster and I did have to remove two support rods on the hinge pillar side. Removing the bolt connecting both support rods to the w/s support bracket was hardest part. The cable to the trip reset was wrapped around one of the rods!?!?!?. By the way the AIM, UPC 1, A9 does not accurately show location of support rods. Now that that's done I can get back to putting the suspension, & wheels brakes back together and maybe finally have it ready for the paint shop.
Thanks again. Happy Easter.
Thanks again. Happy Easter.