1981 Rochester Quad
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Goose Creek SC
The '81 has a 'unique' carb with an electronically managed fuel mixture controller, a 'unique' distributor which sent timing info to the computer, an oxygen sensor, an ECU which played the part of the "brain" of that system, and a 'one-year-only' electrical harness with temp sensor and throttle position sensor inputs (if I remember correctly). All the right parts need to be in place and operational for the system to work at all. Otherwise, the computer just runs in an "open-loop" program which runs, but not well.
So, if you don't really want to find all the missing parts and reconnect everything, you should swap out any of the 'unique' components and just go back to the "good ol' days" of a carb and a distributor [not those off the '81, as they won't work properly without the whole system].
If you have all the correct components, the '81 engine control system would be an improvement to the prior vintage systems. But, you have to make that call. Good luck with it.
So, if you don't really want to find all the missing parts and reconnect everything, you should swap out any of the 'unique' components and just go back to the "good ol' days" of a carb and a distributor [not those off the '81, as they won't work properly without the whole system].
If you have all the correct components, the '81 engine control system would be an improvement to the prior vintage systems. But, you have to make that call. Good luck with it.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Goose Creek SC
81 ain't bubba'd up
First -- if the check engine light comes on the computer is not gone. It is in the compartment with the battery behind the drivers seat, tucked away on the side towards the drivers seat. It is a rectangular silver box with two connectors coming out of one side. This means that we can start to get codes out of it to see what it sees as missing. This will do you no good until you get an E4ME carb and a computer controlled Distributor
For the Distributor -- it will NOT have a vacuum advance on it and will have a flat four wire connector coming out the drivers side. The connector will be about 2inch square with 4 wires in it.
If you think that you have the carb and distributer I can send you process to read the error codes out of the computer and we can begin from there. Maybe all the stuff is still there. Can you give me a picuture of the engine, without the air cleaner from both sides -- I could tell you how much I see missing.
Good luck
For the Distributor -- it will NOT have a vacuum advance on it and will have a flat four wire connector coming out the drivers side. The connector will be about 2inch square with 4 wires in it.
If you think that you have the carb and distributer I can send you process to read the error codes out of the computer and we can begin from there. Maybe all the stuff is still there. Can you give me a picuture of the engine, without the air cleaner from both sides -- I could tell you how much I see missing.
Good luck
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 233
Likes: 18
From: Monrovia Md
Sorry -- I just noticed your request.
You do not need any special equipment. First, does the check engine light come on when you first start the car and then turn off. If no, check to see if someone removed the bulb. If it does:
Remove the ash tray. You will see a connector. Short out the two pins closest to the driver, then turn on the ignition (dont start the car). you will hear a clicking in the engine by -- this is ok -- it is the mixture solenoid oscillating and it is normal.
If all is working -- the check engine light will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause a longer time (CODE 12). It will repeat this 3 times. All codes start with a 12. If it repeats 12, there are no more codes. However, if it flashes a different code (ex: 3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes (code 34 -- This will flash 3 times and more codes will come out.) You will know when all the codes are done when CODE 12 returns.
Post and codes and we can begin to debug
You do not need any special equipment. First, does the check engine light come on when you first start the car and then turn off. If no, check to see if someone removed the bulb. If it does:
Remove the ash tray. You will see a connector. Short out the two pins closest to the driver, then turn on the ignition (dont start the car). you will hear a clicking in the engine by -- this is ok -- it is the mixture solenoid oscillating and it is normal.
If all is working -- the check engine light will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause a longer time (CODE 12). It will repeat this 3 times. All codes start with a 12. If it repeats 12, there are no more codes. However, if it flashes a different code (ex: 3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes (code 34 -- This will flash 3 times and more codes will come out.) You will know when all the codes are done when CODE 12 returns.
Post and codes and we can begin to debug
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Middleburg Florida
Hamilton81t, I've done a couple of WESTPACs so I can understand being out at sea and wanting to work on your car!! If you find you need a distributor, let me know, I have an 81 CCC distributor in my garage.
