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Turn the key and nothing happens, battery is good, lights, radio come on. What should I trouble shoot myself before I have her flat bedded to a shop. I have zero mechanical skills, and what should I know before I get hosed at the shop. Thanks, feel free to email off board. Some one even thinks my alarm starter disconnect is malfunctioning, but the stero shop that installed it 2 owners and 10 years ago wants 45$ n hour to trouble shoot, figured i'd take it to an auto electrical shop first
rtorres@apex2000.net
This could be a LOT of things. When was the last time it started? Is it an auto? (Could be the safety switch). Could be started, battery, ground etc. Post back with lots of details and you will get an answer. The auto electrical shop may NOT be the right place to take it. :nono:
You could crawl under the car (after jacking up and using jack stands) then test the voltage at the starter when you turn the key (someone else will have to do that or test the starter voltage). If you don't get any voltage then take it to the stereo shop and have them replace the $3 relay for you...plus the $25 labor cause it should only take them about 20 minutes to find the relay and replace it...or perhaps the wires just came loose or something. Or, you could do some wire tracing and hunt down the relay yourself. You should get the Haynes repair manual which has the entire wiring diagram so you can start with the wire leading from the ignition switch and follow it to the cut-off relay that is causing your problems. Be sure to use a Volt meter to test the voltage at each spot...starting with the ignition switch, cause it could be bad too.
Or...it could be a ground wire. Crawl under the car and remove the large black cable that is bolted to the frame right under the battery compartment . Clean the connection and make sure it is good and tight. The results of this being the problem would be what Pedro...sorry DOCTOR Pedro :jester described. Lights and accessories but not enough to turn it over.
Good advice here. I had a loose battery connection for a while that would cause the car to not start. Lights would all work but the strain of the starter wouldn't do anything. Check your battery terminals and make sure they are TIGHT.
Sorry about the lack of details, it is a '75 L48 automatic
It last started several months ago. It would start 6 out of 8 times, now it won't start at all. The battery connections seem good, how do I check the neutral safety switch? Is there a way to check the starter with it in the vehicle or do I need to remove it? How hard is it to remove?
Thanks, the weather is getting nice and my vette is out of commission
Good to see you guys are treating me with the due respect... :jester
DriBak,
Before you remove the starter, check the simpler stuff. If the connections seem OK, now try to recharge the battery, or hook up another one temporarily.
I'd put my money on the starter. You may also want to check your fusable link....this is what caused my car to do exactly what yours is doing. Cost a few $$ to fix.
OK. Now we can get scientific (Dr. Pedro knows this method well right now, but will forget it in short order.) :jester When it wouldn't start those 2 of 8 times what were the circumstances? Had you just driven the car or had it been sitting? And what did you do to get it started?
To check the neutral safety switch, try first putting it in and out of park a few times and see if it will start. I am sure there is a simple way to override it if this does not work. I don't have an auto but I assume it plugs into the trans under the car and someone will correct me on this. Do you have a manual or assembly instruction manual?
Does your horn work? Do the interior lights come on? These have nothing to do with the starter circuits. If not, your battery is really DEAD. Charge it overnight and see what happens? If you need a shop, call the local Vette clubs and ask for a recommendation.
Sorry went back and reread your post - battery must have something in it. Still charge it up. Do you get a starter click? If not, the neutral safety switch is a prime suspect. Try starting in both park and neutral after the charge.
I had the EXACT same problem. After three starter motors, the mechanic finally listened to me and traced down a bare wire that was going through from the cockpit to the engine compartment. Where it went through the firewall, the insulation had worn through. I told him it wasn't the starter because I brought the car to him with a brand new one installed. Check your wiring around the steering column and through the firewall, I'll bet you'll find the problem yourself. My friggin experience cost me almost $800 and I'm still fuming about it. I'm also convinced these bozos shorted out my gas tank sending unit because once they finally listened to me and fixed the wiring, the gas gauge went way, way past the F for Full. I had another shop diagnose the problem and they said the other guys didn't do it....but I'll never change my mind. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
Mine was doing the same thing last week. After poking around with a test light I discovered that the wire to the S terminal on the solenoid had broken at the
terminal end. Replaced the end and haven`t had a problem since. Good luck
electrical problems can be solved just takes some patience and time.
turn your lights on and turn the key to start.if lights go out then probably bad battery or corroded cables.if battery terms are loose then not getting enough juice for start but lights will work as they dont have that much draw.
I look at it this way,I can't make it any worse and my time doesn't cost me 70 bicks an hour so I will try anything first myself and so far I have gotten everything done myself.In process of repaint myself.