'73 rear brake questions
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
From: Shawnee KS
'73 rear brake questions
I just got a '73 a few weeks ago, and I'm replacing the rear brakes and rotors. The main question I have is with getting the calipers off to remove the rotors. Do I need to remove the whole caliper to get the rotor off (if so, would I be right in assuming that I will have to disconnect the brake line since I can't get a socket back there with it still connected?)? Or remove the front half of the caliper and pull the rotor off? The rotors have been replaced before at some point, so I don't have to mess with rivets. This probably sounds like a stupid question, but I've only done brakes on newer cars and the calipers pop right off after taking a couple of bolts off. Thanks.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 28
From: Long Beach CA
Take the two mounting bolts out and remove the complete caliper. Since you can't move the caliper without bending the metal line, loosen teh bracket where the metal and flex line come together. Then you can move the whole caliper out of the way. Use an old coat hangar to wire the caliper to the trailing arm. Don't let it just dangle from the line.
You shouldn't have to remove the brake line to get to the mounting bolts. It should flex enough without bending so you can get a socket and extension back there.
You shouldn't have to remove the brake line to get to the mounting bolts. It should flex enough without bending so you can get a socket and extension back there.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
Take the two mounting bolts out and remove the complete caliper. Since you can't move the caliper without bending the metal line, loosen teh bracket where the metal and flex line come together. Then you can move the whole caliper out of the way. Use an old coat hangar to wire the caliper to the trailing arm. Don't let it just dangle from the line.
You shouldn't have to remove the brake line to get to the mounting bolts. It should flex enough without bending so you can get a socket and extension back there.
You shouldn't have to remove the brake line to get to the mounting bolts. It should flex enough without bending so you can get a socket and extension back there.
Thats the best way to do it. Also if your pulling the rotors be aware that the emergency brake resides inside the top hat part of the rotor and it may need to be backed off. Also if your thinking of replacing emergency brake, be prepared for a battle its totally behind the wheel hub. Welcome to the forum you have come to the right place. another heads up is we all like pics, keep us posted.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
From: Shawnee KS
I went ahead and pulled the hardlines out of the back of the caliper. I wanted to get the calipers off anyways because I'm going to paint them to clean them up a little bit. I am also thinking of replacing the brake lines back there since I have everything off. Thanks for the help, and I will get some pics up soon. Thanks.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
From: Shawnee KS
Been trying to get pics up, but having trouble figuring the best way to do it. I read something on here about posting pics, but I have a snapfish account and when I copy and paste the url for my pics it just posts the the url and takes you into my account. Don't know if this is normal, but I'm working on getting some on here that just show up in the thread without having to click on a link.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
Been trying to get pics up, but having trouble figuring the best way to do it. I read something on here about posting pics, but I have a snapfish account and when I copy and paste the url for my pics it just posts the the url and takes you into my account. Don't know if this is normal, but I'm working on getting some on here that just show up in the thread without having to click on a link.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 911
Likes: 5
From: TN
pumping up
You did not mention why you are replacing the rotors but be aware that installing new rear rotors is more involved than just removing and replacing. The rotors have to have a minimum runout to keep air from being sucked/pumped into the caliper bores and decreasing the function of the calipers in receiving brake fluid pressure from the master cylinder.
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Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Be very patient bleeding your brakes. Move the pedal slowly or buy a power bleeder It will take some time to get your brakes pumped up after you pull it apart, so don't panic if it takes some time...
Good Luck
It will take some time to get your brakes pumped up after you pull it apart, so don't panic if it takes some time... Good Luck
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Air can get trapped in the caliper passages and sometimes be difficult to remove. The GM Service Manual even describes that a rubber mallet should be used to "tap" on the calipers during the bleeding process to help move that air out of the caliper 'hiding places'. If you can get the brakes pumped up enough to drive it around the neighborhood, do so; then bleed again and you will find more air freed up by the movement/vibration while driving and the actuation of the brake system.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Hi, I have a 73 as well and the earlier comment about shimming the rotors is extremely critical. I had my brakes done at a repair shop and they had no clue about this shimming. When I picked up my car, the brake pedal would be on the floor after 100 miles of driving. It was air getting in the system. After 2 years of fighting with these guys I found someone who knew how to shim the rotors. You need to get these shims and a dial indicator. I think they need to be under .005" runout but you should check specs.
Regarding bleeding the system, I did not have a problem with this and became an expert because I had to do it so many times when my brakes filled with air. I carried a bottle of DOT 4, wrenches and trained my wife to step on the pedal....
Happy to report brakes are good now !!!
Regarding bleeding the system, I did not have a problem with this and became an expert because I had to do it so many times when my brakes filled with air. I carried a bottle of DOT 4, wrenches and trained my wife to step on the pedal....
Happy to report brakes are good now !!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 911
Likes: 5
From: TN
Hi, I have a 73 as well and the earlier comment about shimming the rotors is extremely critical. I had my brakes done at a repair shop and they had no clue about this shimming. When I picked up my car, the brake pedal would be on the floor after 100 miles of driving. It was air getting in the system. After 2 years of fighting with these guys I found someone who knew how to shim the rotors. You need to get these shims and a dial indicator. I think they need to be under .005" runout but you should check specs.
Regarding bleeding the system, I did not have a problem with this and became an expert because I had to do it so many times when my brakes filled with air. I carried a bottle of DOT 4, wrenches and trained my wife to step on the pedal....
Happy to report brakes are good now !!!
Regarding bleeding the system, I did not have a problem with this and became an expert because I had to do it so many times when my brakes filled with air. I carried a bottle of DOT 4, wrenches and trained my wife to step on the pedal....
Happy to report brakes are good now !!!
Last edited by 70ZZ3 96LT4; May 14, 2011 at 10:55 AM.