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My energy suspension poly locking melted. Then i was really screwed. It blobbed down over the engine bolts. I spent hours with a die grinder removing the poly so I could get to bolts.
Under normal use you should be fine. Headers start to glow when you are driving at WOT much of the time on a road racing track. Add that to a 100 degree summer race day and they melt.
I buy the OEM style DOAN motor mounts then I put a 3/8" bolt thru the center of them along with a self-locking nut so they can never pull apart. Same protection of the so-called "locking" mounts but at less cost.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi and Welcome!
Originally Posted by raymondb
I have a 1976 C3 Corvette. I live in rural Australia and purchased a new set of engine mounts from Rockauto Parts. The problem I have now have is that the fan just hits the bottom of the shroud. Anybody had this problem and what's the cure. Due to my location I am left to my own devices to try and fix this. I am going to try and shim the mount.
What are your mount measurements?
Any chance there is a problem with the transmission mount?
My 7-blade clutch fan also hit my shroud so I just trimmed off 1/2" off the tips of the blades then rounded the corners. As the blades were aluminum they were really easy to cut with my aviation snips.
I have a 1976 C3 Corvette. I live in rural Australia and purchased a new set of engine mounts from Rockauto Parts. The problem I have now have is that the fan just hits the bottom of the shroud. Anybody had this problem and what's the cure. Due to my location I am left to my own devices to try and fix this. I am going to try and shim the mount.
I just put mounts back in the car, than lifted the engine with a garage jack and tightened mounts bolt. I now have 15mm bit over 1/2 inch clearance at the fan tip. Probably won't last as engine will settle back to lowest position over time.
Will get some new mounts of a better quality this time.
Never use one solid and one rubber. The rubber one will flex and work harden the solid one. Then the solid one cracks and breaks. It's not the fault of the solid mount; the fault is the person that used one solid and one flexible.
I have a 1976 C3 Corvette. I live in rural Australia and purchased a new set of engine mounts from Rockauto Parts. The problem I have now have is that the fan just hits the bottom of the shroud. Anybody had this problem and what's the cure. Due to my location I am left to my own devices to try and fix this. I am going to try and shim the mount.
I did check transmission mount and all was good, I have car running now and no noise from fan. The fan shroud has had some previous trimming and I think the mounts are at fault, no time to pull them out again and measure them. I will do some research and get some new ones. Thanks for the help much appreciated
Raymond, I believe that Chevrolet actually inserted a flat plate ("V" shaped) between the engine mounts and the block on air conditioned equipped cars to gain some additional clearance in the early 70's (?). You should be able to take an old mount and use it as a pattern to make a couple of plates to shim your mount away from the block and add at least a 1/2" of clearance permanently if you can't find another cause for the clearance problem. Just be sure to use slightly longer bolts to compensate.
Raymond, I believe that Chevrolet actually inserted a flat plate ("V" shaped) between the engine mounts and the block on air conditioned equipped cars to gain some additional clearance in the early 70's (?). You should be able to take an old mount and use it as a pattern to make a couple of plates to shim your mount away from the block and add at least a 1/2" of clearance permanently if you can't find another cause for the clearance problem. Just be sure to use slightly longer bolts to compensate.
My car is air conditioned. The problem only started when I changed the engine mounts. I was going to make a spacer or modify the main bolt hole to get more clearance. I think your idea of the V shim is the way to go. Thanks for the info.
My car is air conditioned. The problem only started when I changed the engine mounts. I was going to make a spacer or modify the main bolt hole to get more clearance. I think your idea of the V shim is the way to go. Thanks for the info.
Raymond, to clarify, the shims were used specifically on the Big Blocks with A/C, so I wouldn't expect to see them on a small blocks. However, it should do the trick for you just fine.
You might want to try it by stacking a couple of washers between the mount and the block first to see if it will work, and just how thick a piece of material to make the shims out of.
Good luck and let us know how it works out... GUSTO
You should put the solid motor mount on the other side too, it really stiffens up the front end, you will notice a difference. And there is no more vibration than normal, I had solids on my 550HP 406ci with a fairly radical street solid roller cam and loved them.
Moroso makes solid motor mounts I would not hesitate to use
I have solid on mine, I also replaced the transmission mount with a High end or performance mount. I don't see any more vibration then before.
Raymond, to clarify, the shims were used specifically on the Big Blocks with A/C, so I wouldn't expect to see them on a small blocks. However, it should do the trick for you just fine.
You might want to try it by stacking a couple of washers between the mount and the block first to see if it will work, and just how thick a piece of material to make the shims out of.
Good luck and let us know how it works out... GUSTO
I made some shims as you suggested out of 3/16 plate. I have just finished fitting them with longer bolts and they worked. The fan is now central in the shroud. Not that easy to fit, right side is OK left side bit of a struggle.
I do have one more issue. The pushrod for the mechanical fuel pump is stuck in the block, any ideas on how to get it out without pulling the engine. I have an electric pump on at the moment but want to go back to the mechanical pump.
Thanks for your help, not a lot of Corvettes around here in fact there 's not much of anything except kangaroos. I have to buy most parts from the US and takes about two weeks get here,
Thanks again
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by raymondb
I do have one more issue. The pushrod for the mechanical fuel pump is stuck in the block, any ideas on how to get it out without pulling the engine. I have an electric pump on at the moment but want to go back to the mechanical pump.
On the front of the engine GM installed a 3/8 X 16 X 1/2 " bolt.
If a longer bolt was installed it will bottom out on the fuel pump rod.
Remove that bolt and maybe that will solve your problem.
