Buffing swirl marks out
I have a tuxedo black 69, that has some swirl marks on the fenders and by the gas cap. What is a good system\way to remove? They are not scratches but swirl marks. Any products you guys recommend?
i use meguires swirl remover (liquid). rub it in and remove b/4 it dries. get a bottle and mix 50% denatured alcohol with 50% water. wipe down area. if you dont you might end up with haze after putting on whathever protection you use.
if you have other imperfections that dont come out i use same mfg. they have a mild rubbing compound. its rated #3. just go back and use the swirl again after compound.
after 28 yrs doing by hand i broke down and got a porter cable orbital finisher. what use to take 6 to 8 hrs now down to 1.
the orbital will not burn thru paint like a regular buffer will. but i always keep pad moist just for my peace of mind.
mine might not be the best way but i dont have ANY swirl in paint.
hopefully you will get a few more people involved and we'll all improve and get new ideas.
We were caught in the transistion of acrylic lacquer to acrylic enamal and then to base / clear near the end. It was not easy to adapt to all of these top coats.
We found a product that consisted of carnuba wax, Black Gold I think worked well with good results. The old days of Diamond Coat and the likes were there. A lot of slow speed polisher's were used and 'burn through' was a issue.
A product name 'Frecela' had some good results with the polishing compound. 'pgh red' nailed it with the amount of work.
Meguire's will tackle this job with results. If you do not have equipment to polish out, some good old elbow grease will give you a return.
'81 pilot' spoke to the difference of a clay bar over swirl marks. A clay bar is good for removing 'stuff' that polish/rubbing compound cant touch. Look at Meguire's site and they will have the correct product for you.
Dano,
We were caught in the transistion of acrylic lacquer to acrylic enamal and then to base / clear near the end. It was not easy to adapt to all of these top coats.
We found a product that consisted of carnuba wax, Black Gold I think worked well with good results. The old days of Diamond Coat and the likes were there. A lot of slow speed polisher's were used and 'burn through' was a issue.
A product name 'Frecela' had some good results with the polishing compound. 'pgh red' nailed it with the amount of work.
Meguire's will tackle this job with results. If you do not have equipment to polish out, some good old elbow grease will give you a return.
'81 pilot' spoke to the difference of a clay bar over swirl marks. A clay bar is good for removing 'stuff' that polish/rubbing compound cant touch. Look at Meguire's site and they will have the correct product for you.
Dano,
Your right on the money Dano;
It's Farecla G10, for the compound that removes swirl marks formulated specifically for dark colors.
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The first time I did my black '70 it looked like crap before I started and now it looks great.
A few years ago I bought a DVD called "How to Use the PC for Showcar Results". This guy buffs out a '59 Vette to a very impressive level. I basically follow his systematic approach. The key (besides the PC polisher) is the selection of compounds and pads. I only use Wolfgang pads for the polisher and they are color coded by "cut level" for the stuff you are putting down. I use microfiber cloths to remove the pastes.
I only use Meguiar's products and you always use them in decending numeric product code numbers. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THEIR BOTTLE. Product number selection will depend on your starting paint quality. Your's sounds about like mine did originally, so here's what I used:
1. Speed Glaze #80
2. Swirl Remover #9
3. Show Car Glaze #7
4. Next Generation Tech Wax
Once you do the above process, next time you should be able to start at step 3 or 4. Trust me, it works!

These pics were shot today and it just finished 3 months on the lift and hasn't been waxed since last August.

The first time I did my black '70 it looked like crap before I started and now it looks great.
A few years ago I bought a DVD called "How to Use the PC for Showcar Results". This guy buffs out a '59 Vette to a very impressive level. I basically follow his systematic approach. The key (besides the PC polisher) is the selection of compounds and pads. I only use Wolfgang pads for the polisher and they are color coded by "cut level" for the stuff you are putting down. I use microfiber cloths to remove the pastes.
I only use Meguiar's products and you always use them in decending numeric product code numbers. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THEIR BOTTLE. Product number selection will depend on your starting paint quality. Your's sounds about like mine did originally, so here's what I used:
1. Speed Glaze #80
2. Swirl Remover #9
3. Show Car Glaze #7
4. Next Generation Tech Wax
Once you do the above process, next time you should be able to start at step 3 or 4. Trust me, it works!

These pics were shot today and it just finished 3 months on the lift and hasn't been waxed since last August.


i tried next generation tex and ended up going back to liquid glass. dont know whether i applied it wrong or what. i put it on by hand.
just wondering if people using orbital can get that "mirror look" and what pad and speed they run it at.





I think there needs to be clarification. There are swirl marks and then there are SWIRL marks. The first being just very light swirls in the very top portion of the paint or clear. The second being heavier swirls caused by machine buffing or even polishing. The first sometimes can be taken care of with the simple over the counter meguirs type swirl remover, the latter will need a more agressive type of swirl remover such as the 3M products. And sometimes even back to a buffing polish followed by a swirl remover or even machine glaze. Heck on a single stage non clear coat application, I will even re wetsand with 2000, buff and polish to get it into optimum shape. But for the average guy, starting with a meguires type swirl remover, then if that didn't work progress to the slightly more aggressive swirl remover compounds is the way to go. And if you are not familiar with machine buffing or polishing just use elbow grease. Clay bar is only for surface contaminants nothing more. It will remove tree sap and other things adhered to the topcoat, but generally swirls are a bit deeper. But the key is to use the least abrasive thing for the issue, don't start with something too harsh and create more work for yourself...











