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Help me replace side yoke seals please.

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Old May 30, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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Default Help me replace side yoke seals please.

I just bought a used 3.55 differential for my automatic car which now has 3.08. I paid $200 for it and really want to get it installed for as little as possible. The front pinion seal is dry as a bone. However, both side seals need to be replaced and I have a real phobia about digging into the differential.

Can the side yokes seals be replaced without taking the gears out? If someone can tell me what I am up against that would be great. The goal was to NOT have to use a micrometer for any of this. Below is the parts list I "think" I will need. Please let me know what you think I need.

I have never done this before.



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Old May 30, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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The side yokes can be removed by taking the snap ring off the inner end of each one with a pair of 90* snapring pliers. Once the yokes are out, the old seals can be pried out and the new seals tapped in place. No need to remove the gears.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 10:00 PM
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Yes you do not need to take the gears out. The only thing needed to come out is the axle stubs. I have one on my stand right now that I just put in a pinion seal and side seals.

Remove the back cover and drain the fluid. You will see the cross pin in the carrier assembly. There is a small 7/16 head bolt that is actually a long pin. Remove this and the cross pin will slide out. Now you have access to the axle stub snap rings. Get a pair with 90 degree ends so you can get inside and remove the snap rings. Once the snap rings are off slide or tap out the axle stubs. Theseals are now exposed and ready to be replaced. Check the axle stubs carefully for wear. I have 6 on my bench now from new to severly worn. Now is the time to replace if needed.

Last edited by Gordonm; May 30, 2011 at 10:02 PM.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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Here are a few photos as you requested. If you need any more let me know. I still have it on my stand now.

First one you can see the pin running through the carrier.


Here is the 2nd one with the pin removed and the stub axle pushed in and the snap ring removed.


Here the axle stub is removed


Left to right. Severly worn axle. The snap ring was gone on this one. The axle stub end was worn over .200. Middle one is worn with about .020 wear and the right one is a new axle



Last edited by Gordonm; May 30, 2011 at 10:29 PM.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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Thank you very much. I can't wait to dig in. You make it sound pretty straight forward.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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It is pretty easy. The only problem you might run into if the axle stub ends are worn and mushroomed over. Then you have to tap or hit the axle stubs to get them out of the carrier. Chances are if there is some mileage on them you will have to use some force to get them out. No big deal though.

One other thing and I just had this happen is the small gears inside the carrier that the cross pin goes through have a shim under them. When the cross pin is removed the shim can slide out of alignment or even fall into the carrier. Just be careful and look carefully that the shim is still in there when you replace the cross pin back in.
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Old May 31, 2011 | 05:25 AM
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Gordon. Nice write up and pics!
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Old May 31, 2011 | 08:45 AM
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I just found this and wanted to add it to the thread. part#'s are from Chicago Corvette
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Yes you do not need to take the gears out. The only thing needed to come out is the axle stubs. I have one on my stand right now that I just put in a pinion seal and side seals.

Remove the back cover and drain the fluid. You will see the cross pin in the carrier assembly. There is a small 7/16 head bolt that is actually a long pin. Remove this and the cross pin will slide out. Now you have access to the axle stub snap rings. Get a pair with 90 degree ends so you can get inside and remove the snap rings. Once the snap rings are off slide or tap out the axle stubs. Theseals are now exposed and ready to be replaced. Check the axle stubs carefully for wear. I have 6 on my bench now from new to severly worn. Now is the time to replace if needed.
Gordonm, I imagine by now that your differential is back on your car, but do you happen to have a picture of the 7/16 bolt? I am also looking to replace the yoke seals shortly.
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 08:41 AM
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Probably replace the bearings and c-clips while you are at it if there is any wear on the yokes, they would have grinded and gotten junk in the bearings.

since you have basically taken the whole rear end apart, might as well do it big
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