Well, here I am again. I still have no fuel to the cross fire. I have replaced the tank, fuel pump, sender, fuel relay switch, all the fuses.
I have a light for 2 seconds at the fuel pump fuse as per the book. I have 8.75 volts to the fuel pump. When i try to start the car I get 40 PSI oil pressure as the engine is turning over. I took the fuel line off at the fuel filter and still get no fuel out of the line. With voltage to the fuel pump is it possible I have a bad new pump? All ideas welcomed.

Thanks John

 

Are you removing the fuel line from the tank to the filter or from the filter to the injectors? Is your ECM working? Are you getting an electrical signal at the injectors?

 

It is before the filter. I do not know if the ECM is bad. I do not know if there is a pulse. I thought I had to get fuel to the injectors first.

 

If the pump is working you can hear it when you turn the key to the on position. It should buzz for about 2 seconds followed by a buzz sound from the injectors for about two seconds. Do you hear either when you turn the key to on?

Jim

 

No. Nothing is running at all.

 

I see you said you did it but check again. Check the fuel pump fuse. Then the fuel pump relay.

There is also a fuse near the battery for the ECM.

When you pour some gas down the TBI's will it start and run for a bit?

I see you say you have power to the pump...8.75 volts but you also say you don't hear it. Power is there only when the key is in the on position right? So the actual pump in the tank can't be getting anything. Either its bad or wired wrong. Strange problem.

You will know when you have it right it will buzz for two seconds every time you turn the key to on. Listen carfully.
Jim

 

Pull the pump and check power at the pump. If you got juice then obviously the pump is bad. Electric fuel pumps rarely give warning, they just quit!!!

 

I did pour gas in the throttle body and it runs. I did get another pump today and hooked up my volt meter to it. When the pump is not hooked up I get 8.75 volts. When I hook the pump up it drops to .95 volts. What else is there to check. I am thinking it might be a ground problem.

 

You mean you get 8.75 volts on the wire to the pump from the car when no pump is hooked up right? What are you using to ground the meter with on this test? Is the ignition on or off when you do this test?

Jim

 

I have tried to ground to the frame and the ground wire in the harness. The key is on.

 

It could only be one of a few things. You need to eliminate the obvious. The Shop manual has a set test proceedure.
Once again I am assuming you wired the new pump right...


I need you to do this test. I need to know if this part of the system is working right at the fuse and also Eliminate the fuse. Car off, using a test light, connect one side to the fuse and ground the other. there should be no light. Have some one turn the key on. The test light should light up with in 2 seconds. Does it?


If the light on the fuse turns on after 2 seconds (lets hope it does) do this test: Check circuit 120 and ground 150. Ground 150 comes from the pump and should ground somewhere around the tank or frame. You did reconnect this wire right? I think there is a connector buried about 5 inches from the neck under the fiber glass. Circuit 120 comes from the fuel pump relay and goes to the pump, thats the beize wire with the white strip. I suspect your 8.75 volts is on this wire? If you want to get around this test....run a new ground wire for now to the negative on the battery.....or to a rust free part of the car frame....see if the pump goes on. You may be right that its a bad ground at the pump. I beleive you should be getting a full 12 volts and the 8.75 suggest a problem however I can not see anywhere in the shop manual that specifically refers to the voltage at the pump.

Jim

 

Hey Jim

I found a bad wire in the battery box. Fixed it and the pump works. I get a 2 second pulse like it should and then it stops. Now the injectors are not spraying fuel. I poured gas in the throttle body and it starts to crank. I have recycled the pump and hear fuel up to the injectors. The book says to replace the pressure regulator next. I will have to do this tonight or in the morning. Am I on track?

Thanks
John

 

No don't replace the pressure regulator yet. Its just a spring in the driverside TBI. Why do want to replace it. Do you think its bad, it doesn't go bad? Have you tampered with it?

Do you hear the prime pulse from the injectors when you turn the ignition to on? Remember....pump noise for 2 seconds...then a prime pulse noise from injectors. Check the two TBI fuses...clearly marked in the fuse panel. As you crank the car you should get a pulse on the volt meter or light at the fuse. Use a good ground for the test light or meter.

You can also check for a pulse on the two wires at each injector. Unplug the injector connector and put your meter or test light on it....connect to each side on the plug. Crank engine....do you get a pulse.

Wire colors for the injectors in the battery box are baby blue and the other is light green....check them. Same connector as the one you repaired goes to. As a matter of fact circuit 120 is right beside circuit 467 which is for one of the injectors....the other is right below it.

 

I have to head out soon. I assume the problem is , fuses, wires at ECM. dirty connector at ECM or bad connection in firewall.

To find the firewall connector follow the harness around to the passenger side. It disappears in behind a cover. Remove the cover. Several large connectors in there, disconnect and clean them.

Its time you get a test light to test for an jector pulse. Insert each end of the test light into the connector at the injector and crank the car. It should pulse. If it doesn't check for power the the injector fuses.

Jim

 

Hi Jim

I did the pulse test at the injector. I have continious power to one side and nothing at the other. There was no pulse when I tried to start the engine on either side. I checked the fuses and they are good. I put the test light on the fuses and it was a steady light when I tried to crank the car. I found a 20 amp fuse in the battery box on the outside wall and it was good also. I checked all of the connections and they were clean. No corrosion at all.

John

 

Away for the weekend. I think u should have power to both. Did u make sure the wires were good at the ECM? Hopefully someone else will come along with some imput. I'll be back sunday

 

Try one more thing, unplug both injectors and plug the wires from the back injector to the front and see if just the one fires. Than plug the injector wires to both, but reversed and see if either fires. If u look through
My history for posting u will find four great wiring diagrams I posted them within the past thirty days.

 

The injectors should pulse. I can't remember the circuit order. ECM to fuses then injectors or visa versa. Having power only to sound like an issue. Curious with key off ther should be no power to the injectors. With key on I believe there still should be no power. Power should only go through on crank. Test a wire short. Pull fuse on injector with power and see if it cuts power off. If you still get power something is touching somewhere and providing it. I know it sounds like both injector fuses are good but change them anyway. Clean fuse plugs.

 

Sorry can't edit from iPhone. Meant to say power to injector only is a problem.

 

Sorry I can't be more help on the injector issue but if you end up isolating it to a possible bad ECM, I have a spare you can try. I'm in Niceville so we could meet and you could try it. I'm not 100% it works but pretty sure.