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I ordered the assm from Van Steel yesterday at noon and it shipped out the same day. I got an email with my total, and another with my tracking number. Very impressed with Van Steel so far!
I've read that changing a trailing arm can be a bear because the pivot bolt and shims can be rusted solid, I've even read about cutting the bolt to get it out. I got the bearing assembly to break loose last night, all I'm left with is the lower shock mount. I don't have the tool, and don't have the time to wait for one, so I'm going to have to figure out a way to get it out.
I've read that changing a trailing arm can be a bear because the pivot bolt and shims can be rusted solid, I've even read about cutting the bolt to get it out. I got the bearing assembly to break loose last night, all I'm left with is the lower shock mount. I don't have the tool, and don't have the time to wait for one, so I'm going to have to figure out a way to get it out.
1) Soak shock mount with PB Blaster or Kroil. Kroil is better IMHO but PB Blaster is available at Advance etc. I wrapped mine in tin foil and then filled the foil "boots" with Kroil to keep the parts soaking...can't hurt.
2) Go to the nearest hardware store and get three or four 3/8" NPT pipe caps. These will thread on your shock mounts and serve as the removal tool.
3) Get a BFH and a six-pack and wail away. You need to make sure the cap stays bottomed out on the shock mount; if it backs off as you are hitting it, you will wreck the mount. I placed a set of vice grips on the cap, sticking out at about 3 o'clock, that way I could see immediately if the cap was moving, and tighten it back up. If you end up beating on a cap for a while with no luck, replace it with a fresh one so you don't wreck your threads.
4) This actually does work, but in my case required some persistence. About the time you think you cannot swing the hammer one more ******* time, she'll start to move for you. If not, try heating the bolt end with a torch and quenching with motor oil or WD40 a couple times.
Good luck!
Last edited by Rally68; Jun 8, 2011 at 01:25 PM.
Reason: clarification
That's a great idea Rally68. I was thinking about trying a 3 jaw gear puller but your idea sounds better, I don't know if I could get enough pressure from the puller. Thanks!
That worked great, I bought 3 pipe caps, put one on and it broke loose after a half dozen shots with the BFH. My bearing is due in today...nice to be making some progress!
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
you need to look at the half shafts in the diff.....if the ends mushroom out from hammering they need to be replaced.....make sure the half shafts cant be moved in and out. also this is a good time to change to the VBP style struts
I just did this. Got my part from VanSteel too. The benifit to me to go with the bearing assembly rather than the whole trailing arm assembly was that it was cheaper, the job is unbolt the old and bolt on the new, I was able to retain all of my rear suspension adjustments without haveing to re-do that, and I didn;t have to deal with frozen trailing arm bolts, trailing arm shims and adjustments.
The hardest part about the job was getting the damn parking brake retaining pin springs back on.
The bearing from Van Steel arrived and it's a thing of beauty. Well made, fast shipping, and packaged well...I'm very happy. I wish it was Saturday so I could get this thing back together!