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I was checking underneath my "new" 77 C3 and noticed a bit of play in the rear suspension. When pulling and pushing on the top and bottom of the rear wheels, one has maybe 1/4" of play and the other has a little more. Is this correct, or what needs replacing? Thanks in advance!
Ted, if you can move the rear wheels at all, the wheel bearings are shot and this requires removal and rebuilding of your trailing arms. Not a cheap job and they can be a bugger to remove, often requiring the aid of a sawzal to cut the bolts out of the frame.
Have a helper rock the wheel at 3 and 6 o'clock while you look from underneath. Make sure it's not the whole trailing arm moving.
Rock again at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if the movement includes the half shaft and diff yoke as Melwff said. It might simply be strut rod bushings.
Well, I had a friend wiggle the tire vertically and it looks like a wheel bearing. The movement seems to be between the yoke and the trailing arm. There doen't appear to be play in the strut rod bushings, and the trailing arm doesn't apear to be moving. Any other test to be sure it's a wheel bearing before I tear into it?
I went ahead and pulled everything apart. Evrything is unbolted except the lower shock mount. Any hints for getting the bearing to break lose? It's in there tight.
If you're talking about physically removing the yoke assembly from the trailing arm it's not like removing front wheel bearings where you just spin the spindle nut off and pry a grease seal off of the brake rotor...the upright has to be disassembled from the trailing arm then the yoke has to be pressed out of the upright.
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm not going to tackle the bearings myself, I'm ordering a rebuilt unit from Van Steel. The problem I'm having is that the bearing assembly, although unbolted, doesn't want to pull out of the trailing arm. I've removed the parking brake shoes and removed the four nuts that hold the bearing assm in place, and the spindle nut and yoke came off no problem. It just seems that the unit is rusted in place. I don't want to damage the unit since I'll need it as a core, any tricks to help get it apart?
If you are buying rebuilt arms from Van Steel I don't think there is any need to take these apart. You need to either use the special tool that bolts to the trailing arm or use a shop press.
Lots of PB blaster,put trailing arm on 2 jackstands,1 stand will go in the end of the trailing arm,put the yoke back on with nut,put a block of wood on the yoke,get a 6 pack,now wail away.
edit- guess I better add ,this will get it started breaking away from arm,then remove the yoke and knock it out the rest of the way. The weight of the bearing assembly is whats working for you here.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Jun 6, 2011 at 02:56 PM.
Since you have the half-shafts out, check the end play on the differential side yokes. When everythig is new they should have .005/.010 of movement. Mine had about .12 and I had it fixed by Van Steel.