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Rear Wheel Play

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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Default Rear Wheel Play

I was checking underneath my "new" 77 C3 and noticed a bit of play in the rear suspension. When pulling and pushing on the top and bottom of the rear wheels, one has maybe 1/4" of play and the other has a little more. Is this correct, or what needs replacing? Thanks in advance!
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 05:29 PM
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are the side yokes on the rear end moving in and out when you do this?
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 06:07 PM
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Ted, if you can move the rear wheels at all, the wheel bearings are shot and this requires removal and rebuilding of your trailing arms. Not a cheap job and they can be a bugger to remove, often requiring the aid of a sawzal to cut the bolts out of the frame.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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That's what I was afraid of. I'll do a little more research this weekend. I see that Van Steel has a reasonable price for rebuilt bearing setups.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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There's umpteen reasons that a rear wheel may have play. Jumping to the conclusion that it's the rear wheel bearings is a little premature.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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With my luck, it'll be bearings, but I'm going to take a closer look this weekend. Any suggestions on tests to perform or what to look for?
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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Have a helper rock the wheel at 3 and 6 o'clock while you look from underneath. Make sure it's not the whole trailing arm moving.
Rock again at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if the movement includes the half shaft and diff yoke as Melwff said. It might simply be strut rod bushings.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
There's umpteen reasons that a rear wheel may have play. Jumping to the conclusion that it's the rear wheel bearings is a little premature.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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My bad, I assumed he meant relative motion to the trailing arm.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Well, I had a friend wiggle the tire vertically and it looks like a wheel bearing. The movement seems to be between the yoke and the trailing arm. There doen't appear to be play in the strut rod bushings, and the trailing arm doesn't apear to be moving. Any other test to be sure it's a wheel bearing before I tear into it?
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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I went ahead and pulled everything apart. Evrything is unbolted except the lower shock mount. Any hints for getting the bearing to break lose? It's in there tight.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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If you're talking about physically removing the yoke assembly from the trailing arm it's not like removing front wheel bearings where you just spin the spindle nut off and pry a grease seal off of the brake rotor...the upright has to be disassembled from the trailing arm then the yoke has to be pressed out of the upright.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:33 PM
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Read this, it will give you an idea what you're up against.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-shimming.html
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Thanks for the responses guys. I'm not going to tackle the bearings myself, I'm ordering a rebuilt unit from Van Steel. The problem I'm having is that the bearing assembly, although unbolted, doesn't want to pull out of the trailing arm. I've removed the parking brake shoes and removed the four nuts that hold the bearing assm in place, and the spindle nut and yoke came off no problem. It just seems that the unit is rusted in place. I don't want to damage the unit since I'll need it as a core, any tricks to help get it apart?
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 01:41 PM
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If you are buying rebuilt arms from Van Steel I don't think there is any need to take these apart. You need to either use the special tool that bolts to the trailing arm or use a shop press.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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I'm not getting the arms, just the bearing assembly. They have a lip which fits thru the trailing arm and 4 bolts hold it in place.



It's unbolted but it doesn't want to come out of the trailing arm.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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This is ultra-bubba, but I heard about a guy bolting his wheels back on and lowering the car until the weight popped the bearing ***'y loose.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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Lots of PB blaster,put trailing arm on 2 jackstands,1 stand will go in the end of the trailing arm,put the yoke back on with nut,put a block of wood on the yoke,get a 6 pack,now wail away.

edit- guess I better add ,this will get it started breaking away from arm,then remove the yoke and knock it out the rest of the way. The weight of the bearing assembly is whats working for you here.

Last edited by ...Roger...; Jun 6, 2011 at 02:56 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Thanks for the ideas guys, I know what I'll be doing tomorrow night...
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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Since you have the half-shafts out, check the end play on the differential side yokes. When everythig is new they should have .005/.010 of movement. Mine had about .12 and I had it fixed by Van Steel.

John
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