My 82 corvette will not do anything when I turn the ignition swich to crank. The battery is new and everything else works. Will a bad starter cause this problem. Or could there be something else that I can check before I take the starter out. Also, I checked under the car. Will I have to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold to be able to drop the starter? Thanks, Sal

 

You can also check out the neutral start switch on the shifter mechanism (in trans console). You need to get 12 volts to the starter solenoid. If the solenoid is getting power to it when the ignition is switched ON, then the solenoid is bad.

 

Thanks, do I have to remove the whole console to get to the switch or can I get to it by removing a side panel?

 

neutral safety swtich may be out of adjustment, try putting the shifter in Neutral and see if it will start. or try moving the shifter from drive back to park. >>>

 

Thanks, I have tried that, but still nothing happens

 

You need to hook up a voltmeter to the starter solenoid: + lead to the "S" terminal and - lead to a ground point (engine block, frame, etc.). Have someone watch the needle when you turn the ignition to "START". If it doesn't read 12 volts, then the power signal isn't getting to the starter solenoid...and that means the starter is not going to turn. Potential causes are: neutral start switch failure; wiring fault between NSS and solenoid; car's alarm system has been activated somehow; seat belt interlock system is interrupting the 12v. signal to the NSS; etc; etc...you get the idea.

If the solenoid IS getting 12 volts, change the starter solenoid because it is the problem.

 

The first questions I ask people in your situation is: Did it used to work? Did it just suddenly stop working? Have you changed anything on the car lately?

Put a volt meter on the battery and make sure it is at full voltage. Years ago, I replaced a starter, only to find the battery was just a bit low. Everything else worked just fine, horn, radio, etc. but it just didn't have the juice to kick the starter over. So ya never know. You could try jumping it from another running car, if it still does nothing, battery is probably fine.

The key switch is just that, a switch. It closes a circuit. When that circuit is closed, something is supposed to happen. (the starter spins) Visualize the circuit, and start checking all the stuff on the circuit which could make it not work.


Scott

 

Thanks Guys, I'll be sure to check all the options mentioned. I appreciate the feedback

 

wow i thought i was the only one! my car has given me S#!t since i got it but when it runs what a rush!!! my vette is an 85 4+3 swapped to an automatic and it does the same thing batt will be hot starter is new.. i take it to the store kill it, get out, buy my stuff, get back in and NOTHING! well not nothing but no power to the starter for sure everything else works as it should and it will be reading 12.5 on the dash...if i wait a while...or when it wants to VROOOMMM, it fires right up..or if i put a big heavy duty F250 jumper cable VROOMMM.. im lost.
this car has given me issuse with timing but i had since fixed it.. man its bad *** when it runs

 

Solid troubleshooting advise for many devices.

When did it last work?
Did you change anything since then?
Has anything in the environment changed?

Did you have any other starter issues before this problem?
When you say everything works, do the headlights work?

I think testing the battery and confirming the connections is a good idea.

 

Pretty easy job. You don't need to drop the exhaust. Unplug the knock sensor. Its a bit tight. You don't want to hit the plug and damage it.

Check for power at the starter before you get into it. If you have power get someone to crank it while you tap the starter with a hammer.

Other possiblities are the fuses, neutral switch and alarm. Lock and unlock the doors with your key, try the passenger side first. Then try starting it. Then try the dirver driver side then try starting it.

Jim

 

Yeah, my car has done the same. Every once in a while something pops up. I thought I had it beat when I removed the theft fuse. It work fine for awhile. Then last week I started it, then I shut it off 'cause I forgot something in the house. I came back, and it's been dead ever since. My son is going to come by this Friday to see if he can help me get it going. We'll try all your suggestions and hopefully one will work. Wish me luck.

 

I don't think pulling the fuse disables the alarm. It only stops the alarm horn from sounding. If it was that easy thats all the thief would have to do. The car still won't start once tripped.

Jim

 

Thanks, how else could you disable or find out if the alarm has been tripped and not allowing the car to start?

 

I am not sure. Thats a question for a thief. I looked at the schematic.

First of all you need to put the fuse back in. The alarm is activated by locking either door with a key. The module is located in the comparment behind the passender seat. See if the module has fallen or is grounding out. You may need to remove the plastic sleave in the compartment to see it. There should be 2 other modules there....I think fuel pump relay and pulse wiper relay. Make sure you identify the right one.


The right module has the following wire colors, yellow, pink/black, black/white, light blue, light green, grey, beize, etc. I think its the light green and light blue you need to pay attention to.

The black wire with the white strip goes to the Starter interupt relay. this relay is under the console just infront of the shifter on the passenger side. This is the only wire that goes to the starter interupt relay. It looks like the module kills the ground to the starter interupt relay and prevents the starter from powering up. My guess is that if you unplugged the module in the storage compartment and ran a ground from the black wire with the white strip the car should start. You should be able to identify this wire easily. Its the only wire coming from the module thats black with a white strip.

The light green goes to the door key arming switches. Probably the source of the problem. The beize disarms maybe the source of the problem.

By the way the push in pins that allow for you interior lights to go on and off could also be the problem. Also feed by the beize. There is one on each side. Do they work? a bad one could be telling the module someone opened your door.

The baby blue goes to the "T" tops, doors etc. This wire senses tampering. Trips the alarm.

All three circuits are simple. The sensors all go to ground. Here is what i do not know. Whether the alarm trips on an open circuit or closed circuit to ground. The switches on all those parts are very basic. The either open or close a connection to ground.

Example if you look at the alarm activation switch in the door you will see the light green wire going in and a black coming out to ground. My guess is the removal of the switch breaks the connection to ground alerting the module. Logic dictates that if you grounded the light green wire at each switch in each door the alarm should be fooled into thinking its off.

Before you dig into it. Put the fuse back in. Lock and unlock each door with your key. Try to start the car. If it doesn't work turn the ignition key to on then off a couple of times. If none of this works start looking at all the above. Start with removing the alarm module and grounding the black wire with the white strip.

BEFORE GROUNDING THE BLACK WITH THE WHITE STRIP TEST IT WITH A METER. MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT CARRY POWER. I DON'T THINK IT DOES, BLACK WIRES ARE ALWAYS A FORM OF GROUND. CONNECT YOUR METER TO THE WIRE AND OTHER SIDE OF THE METER TO GROUND AND SEE IF THERE IS CURRENT WITH THE IGNITION ON. IF NOTHING GO AHEAD WITH THE GROUND TEST.

Jim

 

Thank you for this great information. I guess I'll be working this weekend