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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Default Manual Linkage question

I remember reading how you can change to a short throw with just moving from one hole to the other?

If so which one is mine in and do you need to adjust the linkage length any once you move to the other hole? I'm guessing you need to shorten all the linkages....

I'd like to change but if it requires adjustment I'll just wait till I get the body back on. I'm in the process of blasting and powdercoating the linkage as it was pretty gummed up. Do I need to grease this thing before I put it back in?


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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Dang , you broke it.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Dang , you broke it.

Fit it too! in theory at least, Moment of truth won't be for a little while to see if I can put it back together right...

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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Yours are in the long throw.
And yes adjust after the switch.
Hope this helps.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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You can shorten the throw (shorter levers), but you still won't have a Hurst shifter. My $.02

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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by trw
Yours are in the long throw.
And yes adjust after the switch.
Hope this helps.
I always readjust but I've heard others say you don't need to adjust after the change.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
You can shorten the throw (shorter levers), but you still won't have a Hurst shifter.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
You can shorten the throw (shorter levers), but you still won't have a Hurst shifter. My $.02

Never used a hurst so I wouldn't know any better.... But shorter throws I would think would be nice.

Can you change the linkage with the engine/trans in the car? I know it looked like the brackets and linkage would be pain to take off without the engine in mid air...
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Originally Posted by PUNISHER VETTE
Never used a hurst so I wouldn't know any better.... But shorter throws I would think would be nice.

Can you change the linkage with the engine/trans in the car? I know it looked like the brackets and linkage would be pain to take off without the engine in mid air...
The Hurst is only about 1000% better than the OEM, including that it mounts directly to the trans, which eliminates drivetrain movement from affecting shift accuracy.

Might be on the tedious side, but IMHO they're not really all that hard to change in place.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
The Hurst is only about 1000% better than the OEM, including that it mounts directly to the trans, which eliminates drivetrain movement from affecting shift accuracy.

Might be on the tedious side, but IMHO they're not really all that hard to change in place.
The Hurst is a more solid feeling shifter and is easier to adjust the linkage. They even make a Muncie lever to go inside the car so no one knows its a Hurst (if that makes a diff).

It seems to me also the Hurst has some kind of lockout feature that the Muncie shifter doesn't have. Maybe it won't let the trans be in a forward gear and reverse at the same time ???
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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The Hurst has a spring that keeps you from inadvertantly going into the R gate. Effectively replaces the lockout just fine IMOE.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 06:14 PM
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what does a hurst shifter go for price wise? I might stick it back together, go to the short throw and see if there's any improvement there.

The plan right now is an LS replacement in a year or two so spending money on this engine is high on my priority list.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Not sure which CF vendors might have them, but...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-13-0081/
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 01:07 AM
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Street Side Auto had the lowest price. Plus, I have an account with ebates which gives you 6% back.

John
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