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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:21 PM
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Default codes, codes codes lots of codes

so I get the 82 running pretty good, she is strong, sounds healthy. but yesterday I had a check engine light come on and stay on. I pulled the codes- 22,23,33,42,44.
I corrected all the issues and now I get all these codes again. what the heck
Any suggestions??

Marcus
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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I have a code 42 and have no idea why. Every so often, the check engine light will go off, which I interpret to be no code 42. But it will come one again later. Wonder about ignition module, but I think I read somewhere that an ignition module will either run or fail. No in between.. Have asked here before to no avail.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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22 - throttle position sensor low voltage
23 - manifold air temp 'high' (Not used)
33 - MAF/MAP sensor too high
42 - EST (electronic spark timing) problem
43 - ESC (electronic spark control) problem/knock sensor

23, 42, & 43 are probably secondary faults resulting from a primary problem in the throttle position sensor and/or MAF/MAP sensor.

Here's a website with the various codes and some info on the system:

http://www.pcfred.com/Vettetip/ECM%20troublecodes.htm
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
22 - throttle position sensor low voltage
23 - manifold air temp 'high' (Not used)
33 - MAF/MAP sensor too high
42 - EST (electronic spark timing) problem
43 - ESC (electronic spark control) problem/knock sensor

23, 42, & 43 are probably secondary faults resulting from a primary problem in the throttle position sensor and/or MAF/MAP sensor.

Here's a website with the various codes and some info on the system:

http://www.pcfred.com/Vettetip/ECM%20troublecodes.htm
maybe I should have said that I have already adjusted the tps sensor to .525V I am not sure how to test the maf/map sensor yet but I will check it today. I understand the codes I just dont get why Im getting them the car was fixed. and yesterday driving it to and from work the check engine light didnt come on. and the only thing i did was replace the small gasket in the bottom of the rear injector because it was dripping a little instead of the even conical spray.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 11:14 AM
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Could be an intermittent signal issue from the TPS. Regardless of adjustment, the ECM is seeing low voltage as compared to what it's seeing on the MAP. CK wiring real good preferably with an ohm meter while moving them around some.

7T1Vette is right...usually it's the first code that is the issue and the others are reactions to it. Ck grounds REAL good on the engine.

JIM
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Could be an intermittent signal issue from the TPS. Regardless of adjustment, the ECM is seeing low voltage as compared to what it's seeing on the MAP. CK wiring real good preferably with an ohm meter while moving them around some.

7T1Vette is right...usually it's the first code that is the issue and the others are reactions to it. Ck grounds REAL good on the engine.

JIM
ok so I put an ohm meter on the tps (key on) the ohm meter read .340 I know I adjusted it properly and left the ohm meter on while tightening the screws. I re adjusted it to .525 disconected the bat to clear the codes, re connected it, started car. checked the map sensor for it working I pulled the plug from it and nothin, when I plugged it back it the motor surged for less than a sec and went back to normal operating idle.
time to test run it and see if the check engine light comes on again.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
22 - throttle position sensor low voltage
23 - manifold air temp 'high' (Not used)
33 - MAF/MAP sensor too high
42 - EST (electronic spark timing) problem
43 - ESC (electronic spark control) problem/knock sensor

23, 42, & 43 are probably secondary faults resulting from a primary problem in the throttle position sensor and/or MAF/MAP sensor.

Here's a website with the various codes and some info on the system:

http://www.pcfred.com/Vettetip/ECM%20troublecodes.htm
I re-checked the tps and it was low. when I adjusted it before i had it set to .525 ohms and tightened the screws with the ohm meter on it. I readjusted it back up from .340 to .525 took it for a test run and no engine light, had it up to 60mph no issues. I will just wait and c if anything changes.
marcus
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Just so we're talking about the same thing...I know you're measuring volts with a combination volt/ohmeter which is correct.

When I mentioned the ohm function I was suggesting that you measure the resistance of the wiring from the TPS to the ECM while wiggling connections etc.

It shouldn't be moving around...you may just have a TPS switch on the fritz and need to replace it. But need to verify input voltage to it also. Doubt that's an issue...but could be. Ck grounds also.

As I mentioned the ECM is telling us it saw low voltage and it reacted to it. We just need to figure out why that happens sometimes. I doubt adjustment alone will be the answer unless it slipped or throttle sticks or something like that.

JIM
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Just so we're talking about the same thing...I know you're measuring volts with a combination volt/ohmeter which is correct.

When I mentioned the ohm function I was suggesting that you measure the resistance of the wiring from the TPS to the ECM while wiggling connections etc.

It shouldn't be moving around...you may just have a TPS switch on the fritz and need to replace it. But need to verify input voltage to it also. Doubt that's an issue...but could be. Ck grounds also.

As I mentioned the ECM is telling us it saw low voltage and it reacted to it. We just need to figure out why that happens sometimes. I doubt adjustment alone will be the answer unless it slipped or throttle sticks or something like that.

JIM
I will be checking the grounds, I need to replace exhaust manifold gaskets so I figured I would go through the grounds and check some other stuff as well, my ac wont kick on so that will be the next project after i get her running good again.
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