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Radiator flush

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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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Default Radiator flush

Okay, I have a supposedly coorrect temp sender unit coming. I want to flush and replace top and bottom radiator hoses when I install temp unit. . Any suggestions on whether or not to flush and the best place to get correct gm radiator hoses. What is the beat antifreeze I should be using.
BTW - 72 coupe SB, 4sp with a/c is the necessary components.
Thanks for the input!
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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any of the supporting vendors of this site should be able to supply you with the correct hoses. Any of the the brand name antifreezes should be fine, prestone etc. If you havent flushed the system in a number of years go ahead and flush.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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You should use radiator flush if the radiator is dirty/sludgy, but doesn't have any significant build up of lime in the cooling fins. If you do have lime buildup, then you need to use radiator cleaner to get that stuff off the fins and give them back the cooling capacity they should have. If you take the radiator cap off after you drain it, use a light and look down into it at the ends of the cooling channels. If you see a buildup of whitish/tan colored 'crud'....that's lime buildup, and you need to use cleaner. If you just see dirty/sludgy fluid come out of it with clean fins on the inside, you just need to flush the system.

I would recommend that you continue to use the ethylene-glycol antifreeze that the car was spec'ed to use. Dexcool is good stuff, but it was made to use in aluminum engines. It may work fine in cast iron hardware [I don't really know], but I DO know that glycol antifreeze mixed 50/50% with distilled water works very well over long periods of time.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 11, 2011 at 11:24 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 05:18 AM
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I'm planning to pull my radiator check for leaks, paint and use Zerex G05 phosphate-free coolant.

Tech spec sheet
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
You should use radiator flush if the radiator is dirty/sludgy, but doesn't have any significant build up of lime in the cooling fins. If you do have lime buildup, then you need to use radiator cleaner to get that stuff off the fins and give them back the cooling capacity they should have. If you take the radiator cap off after you drain it, use a light and look down into it at the ends of the cooling channels. If you see a buildup of whitish/tan colored 'crud'....that's lime buildup, and you need to use cleaner. If you just see dirty/sludgy fluid come out of it with clean fins on the inside, you just need to flush the system.

I would recommend that you continue to use the ethylene-glycol antifreeze that the car was spec'ed to use. Dexcool is good stuff, but it was made to use in aluminum engines. It may work fine in cast iron hardware [I don't really know], but I DO know that glycol antifreeze mixed 50/50% with distilled water works very well over long periods of time.
I buy the "green stuff" pre-mixed with distilled water.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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That'll work, but you'll be paying a high price for 1/2 the antifreeze. One gallon of antifreeze and a dollar$ worth of grocery store distilled water is equal to two of those 'pre-mixed' gallons. If that is simpler and works for you, great.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
You should use radiator flush if the radiator is dirty/sludgy, but doesn't have any significant build up of lime in the cooling fins. If you do have lime buildup, then you need to use radiator cleaner to get that stuff off the fins and give them back the cooling capacity they should have. If you take the radiator cap off after you drain it, use a light and look down into it at the ends of the cooling channels. If you see a buildup of whitish/tan colored 'crud'....that's lime buildup, and you need to use cleaner. If you just see dirty/sludgy fluid come out of it with clean fins on the inside, you just need to flush the system.

I would recommend that you continue to use the ethylene-glycol antifreeze that the car was spec'ed to use. Dexcool is good stuff, but it was made to use in aluminum engines. It may work fine in cast iron hardware [I don't really know], but I DO know that glycol antifreeze mixed 50/50% with distilled water works very well over long periods of time.
I recently flushed mine , but still have visible lime remaining. Do the auto stores sell CLEANER? I didn't notice any when I bought flush.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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Can you use a product like Lime-Away?


Scott
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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Okay understand about flushing and cleaning. Where is "cleaner" purchased? Always see flush products but not cleaner. One
Ore question can I get the simple steps in order on proper flushingy small block?
Thanks again guys!!
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by makosilver72
Okay understand about flushing and cleaning. Where is "cleaner" purchased? Always see flush products but not cleaner. One
Ore question can I get the simple steps in order on proper flushingy small block?
Thanks again guys!!
Sorry for the typos, thumbs to big for the iPhone keypad!
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:35 PM
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Prestone "cleaner" sits right next to Prestone "flush" on the auto parts store shelves.
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