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I have completely rebuilt the rear suspension and I am going to put the rear shims in so I can get it to the shop. I plan on just putting equal amounts of shims on each side of the arm for now. I am assuming this is sufficent for a temporary alignment?
Also will it be easier to get the arm in the center of the pocket if I remove the rear spring and back off on my adjustable struts?
Stew
Ouuu.... I'd like to know, too - a friend helped me with mine & we simply put the same shims that came off of the car back on.
I still need to get the alignment done. :chevy
If you just rebuilt the trailing arms the spring wouldn't be attached yet nor the lower strut. You can install equal shims on either side but you will find that one side usually gets only a small amount and the other side is packed. I used a laser level , cost about $40 CDN to align the rear by placing it on the rear rotors and shining it forward on the front spindles. As for installing the shims load one side then totally fill the other side, lightly tapping them in, then tighten the through bolt.
I installed my shims with the upper 6 link strut and lower strut rod attached. I also had marked the old shims but found them off so using the laser level and many trials I finally got so when the through bolt is tightened and the laser level was placed on the rotor it pointed exactly to a predetermined spot on the front rotor. No spring was attached. I have almost no shims in one side and alot in the other. Of coarse this varies from car to car. Pack it any way you can then take it to an alignment shop.
Good luck
The laser level is about 24 inches long and sold at a tractor supply store for under $40 CDN. It is guaranteed accurate to within .001 inches per foot. For alignment I measured the rear rotor distance, the front rotor distance, figured out the difference in width plus the laser is 1/4 inch off the lower flat surface and put a chauk mark on the front rotor. I also have trued up my rotors with dial gage and shims. I also bolt the rotor to the hub with all 5 nuts. I then shimmed the rears to point to this front chauk mark. If done carefully I feel this is accurate. I also used the laser to set front toe.
This is not a cheap laser level. We have a Canadian Tire in Canada that also sells them cheap. They may be cheap but it will project a dot for over 500feet. Try it at night. In the day it is still very bright with no problems seeing 100 feet away.
I am going through this right now with my car and was looking at laser levels in catalogs this morning. The ones I've seen are quoting +/- 5 mm accuracy which isn't very good. .001"/ft is great. Does the Canadian Tire level have the Mastercraft name or can you tell who makes it? I'm getting ready to string mine and just bought a piece of aluminum angle to help, but I like the high-tech solution better.
The plus or minus 5 mm accuracy is not very good. My level came with a guarnateed accuracy of .030 at 30 feet, the light is very bright and projecting it any distance you want is effortless. I have used the string method, took all afternoon, I also have 4 6 foot angle irons to C clamp to the rotors for checking toe but found the $40 CDN laser level the best and easiest.
Good luck in your search for a laser level. A flyer came before Christmas as door crasher specials at a local tractor supply house. Got it for Christmas.
As an aid to forum members that inquired about Laser Levels here is source. In the May 2002 issues of Handyman is an ad for a laser level. The company is EchnoScout. The level is $39.95 + 7.95 S&H. Their # is is 1-800-992-2966. If not for Vette alignment they are sure handy for the construction projects around the house.
How big would you estimate the spot diameter to be? Also, did you do any Quick'nDirty checks like projecting the beam, marking it, rotating the laser 180-degrees and checking? I've seen a couple that show accuracy as .25" at 100' (about .02" between wheels; assuming +/- .02" which is better than I can measure with a tape).
The spot diameter certainly isn't the width of a chalk line. I drew lines with a piece of chalk on the front hubs and the dot could plainly be seen in the middle of edge of the chalk. The car is on stands in the shop at the time so I projected the rear axles on the front hubs and the front hubs on the rear axles. I also clamped 4 6 foot angle irons to the 4 rotors after truing and checked with a tape measure. I have a gage to check caster, camber. I will not take the car in for an alignment. I have had two done previously and was not happy with either. They get within specs but one wheel could be on the high side of specs and the other on the low side and this is within SPECS. When I do a home alignment I get both side exactly even and to my specs.
Last night I finished all winter projects and set the car back on the floor. The insurance starts Saturday so if the weather permits I can test the new Tremec, the 6 link and the new braking system with the 4 new stainless sleeved calipers and the hydraboost from the 94 one ton truck.
If you do get out on Saturday, can you please post your test-drive results? I know that I'm certainly curious about your 6-link impressions. I don't know what the Tremec is.
I did a temp rear alingment that came out pretty close (drove it for a few months)
Install both rear wheels/tires.
Use an adjustable level & a 2 by 4 the diameter of the tire.
What you want to do is have a slight inboard tilt at the top of the tires (neg camber).
This will make the car drive safe.
Jack up the entire rear to make adjustments, then lower the car on it's tires to check the camber. Make sure you roll the car front & back a couple of times to get it to settle. Also, make sure the tire pressure is even.
Rest the 2 by 4 pointing up on the side of the tire & put the level on it.
It may be a little time consuming because you need to jack & lower for each adjustment, but you should be able to get a decent setting when you are done.
If you have a protractor, it would be easier.
I made a couple of phone calls re laser levels after searching the web. The technoscout.com people (see post above for telephone #) claim an accuracy of 1.05"/1500' (which is the range of the laser). I also saw an add in Time and called the company (havershills.com - I've lost the tel. # somehow) and they called back, claiming an accuracy of .175"/200'. Both of these work out to .0007-.0008"/ft or so; both for $40 + S&H. I ordered the technoscout because they had the info on hand; not sure if I believe their claims, but using Norval's technique it should be neat to use. What the heck, I could have really used one of these when I built my garage this past year! Sadly, I couldn't find any with a mag base, but figured I'd rig up a basic clamping system somehow. My father-in-law and I are building a new shop for him in a couple of months so it'll get used then too.