For those who have boldly gone there before: On a '72 Coupe with Auto trans: Does the entire shifter console have to come out or just the pot metal top cover to open up the tunnel? Does the steering column have to come out to install the new pedal assembly? Any issues with the crossmember??? Any issues with the fitment against the original Auto exhaust system?

Also: pros/cons of big 5th gear OD versus linear gear pattern through all five gears?

 

Just did this on my '72, but with a Hurst kit. They are pretty much the same though.

You might be able to get away with just removing the shifter console plate, but it was easier with the entire console removed. You will have to fabricate a cover to seal the hole in the body that the new manual shifter boot doesn't cover. You will understand when you see it.

The steering column has to be removed, as well as the wiper door and grille. It is also easier to remove/install the pedal box with the brake booster out of the way.

The only issue I had with the crossmember was that the bracket supplied with the kit is really made for 4 spd cars. The crossmember on a 4spd car has 2 tabs at the front that the bracket bolts to, auto crossmembers don't have these tabs, and without them, the entire engine/transmission can move up and down a fair amount. I could push the whole deal up about 3/4" or so quite easily. I ended up using some angle iron to make 2 "L" brackets to bolt to the crossmember that also then bolted to the supplied bracket. It didn't move at all after that. Hard to explain, but you will understand when you see it.

No problem with the exhaust fitting around the trans, but your center exhaust hanger bracket will not work without mods and fabrication. Again, you will understand when you see it. I ended up using some universal hanger brackets on the rear side of the crossmember instead. If you had a 4spd car, your original center exhaust bracket would work.

Another tip to keep on mind, you will need to make sure to find a way to keep the shifter/steering column interlock bracket held in the "up" position.

You will also need to wire the neutral safety switch into your starter circuit, or do as I did, buy a stock safety switch to attach to the pedal box and buy the short neutral safety switch pigtail to plug into the factory harness plug, which is already there even though you have an automatic. I did it this way because then there was no wire cutting, and I like the idea of having to push the clutch in to start the engine.

 

Excellent writeup, 7t2vette. Adding a few pics for reference.

Brake booster originally bolts to pedal assembly with stud/nut. I reversed stud direction to ease future booster accessibility.










4-speed crossmember has 2, small oem tabs for trans mount. I've got sidepipes; sorry no pipe hanger detail.



I locked steering shaft's reverse-interlock bracket with a custom aluminum bracket.

Look behind cyl 7 primary tube; against firewall, low and left of hydroboost. Used tab location of oem reverse cable.

Fabricated aluminum bracket from flat stock. Drilled holes on either end to secure then made one 90 degree bend, low. High hole accepts pin from steering shaft's bracket and lower hole secures lower bracket to tab on engine-side steering column support, using a 5/16"x3/4", flat-washered bolt.

Alum bracket is fixed length for consistent key-start continuity.



I wasn't building a race car, garage queen, or parade car: I'm a Route 66 kind of guy.

So I selected the TKO600 specifically for it's OD number. Having 4th 1:1 with the rear gear then slide into 5th for less rpms at freeway speeds.

I have an insurance policy that doesn't limit how many miles I log. I like to travel interstate and the trans allows that, with good reliability.

 

Is that copper-colored cylinder next to the master cyl the clutch slave???

 

mar,
I am fairly certain that the cylinder is part of the brake hydro boost system.

 

No it is a nitrogen assist in case the hydroboost system loses hyd pressure you still have some assist. Nothing to do with the clutch strictly brake assist.

 

Thanks, guys. Hope that answers any questions.

p.s. depending on recovery speed to reload vac booster, the HB is a great alternative when using camshafts with large overlap. HB really improved the response to the oem brakes, in my case.