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dodged a bullet, "crate engine" with wrong pushrods

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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 06:14 AM
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Default dodged a bullet, "crate engine" with wrong pushrods

Just got to this in time, was adjusting rockers as good measure after doing a few passes at the strip and look what i found





Seems to be non hardened pushrods with hard guide plates, spoke to the company I bought engine off they are going to send the correct hardened pushrods at cost , engine is 3 years old with 15k mi. Would of been some carnage at high rpm on the strip.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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Nice! I pulled my 77 apart after I blew a head gasket.... looky what I found.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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So the guideplate shaved that notch?

There must not have been much material left, go buy a lotto ticket!
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by phil81


.
If it wasn't for the mushroomed shoulders, that would look like it had been machined. Must be awfully close to the hole in the center of the pushrood.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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So where do you think all that metal ended up?
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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I see a little grey debri acutally feels like a soft paste around the guide place and looking down a little around the lifter cup, i'll just clean up best i can change oil, filter and add a magnet to the pan.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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You're not alone. I have a set of pushrods that look EXACTLY like that. They came from a motor I build many years ago. I put regular pushrods in with hardened guide plates, and like you, I stumbled across the problem before they failed. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully you prevented someone from making the same mistake we did.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Oil filter likely picked up most of that metal debris. Anything too small for the oil filter to catch wouldn't do much damage...but it would cause some premature wear on bearings (very slowly). Nothing to "fret" about. Nice catch!!
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Oil filter likely picked up most of that metal debris. Anything too small for the oil filter to catch wouldn't do much damage...but it would cause some premature wear on bearings (very slowly). Nothing to "fret" about. Nice catch!!
Except not all of the oil gets filtered, especially during warmup. A fair amount of the oil bypasses the filter.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Why would it not get filtered if the bypass doesn't open? Maybe it would on a cheap filter, but it shouldn't on a good one. Either way, the particle size from that kind of rubbing wear would be very small, and any damage done would be minor or just an 'early wear' condition. Not much he can do about it now, and certainly no reason to tear the engine down.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Why would it not get filtered if the bypass doesn't open? .
The bypass will open when the oil is cold and/or the volume is more than the filter can handle (high RPM's).
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by phil81
I see a little grey debri acutally feels like a soft paste around the guide place and looking down a little around the lifter cup, i'll just clean up best i can change oil, filter and add a magnet to the pan.
Phil, and everyone else reading this. correctly aligned guide plates should never rub the push rods. I used to think that guide plates were a non used gimmick. Which they are until you have harmonic valve spring distortion or floating valves.

The pushrod should not hit the head casting either. When you install the guide plates you lightly snug the studs, do all your valve adjusting , and with your plugs out give the starter a long run to cycle everything over.

Since the studs are just lightly tight on the guide plates tap them on the side with a small hammer and drift punch to get the pairs of push rods centered in the guides slots. If you have rubbing you are a candidate for removing a small amount of guide plate material, offset lifters, and or offset rockers

I've had push rods that look brand new with out a trace of scuff marks from a year of running 7500 rpm with a big solid cam.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 07:11 PM
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thanks for the response, so gkull your saying a perfectly aligned pushrod (unhardened in my case should) shouldn't even wear at all? on close inspection i pulled a few others out, and their is a slight ridge on most of them. The tech from place I bough the engine said to run a file on the push rod if it scores or you can feel the scratches (which they do) they are wrong for guide plates. He only had hardened in stock but reconmended chrome-moly
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 07:47 PM
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I use the heavy wall chromemoly 5/16th + .250 longer. the hardened are good, but it still comes down to not rubbing in the first place
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Phil, and everyone else reading this. correctly aligned guide plates should never rub the push rods. I used to think that guide plates were a non used gimmick. Which they are until you have harmonic valve spring distortion or floating valves.

The pushrod should not hit the head casting either. When you install the guide plates you lightly snug the studs, do all your valve adjusting , and with your plugs out give the starter a long run to cycle everything over.

Since the studs are just lightly tight on the guide plates tap them on the side with a small hammer and drift punch to get the pairs of push rods centered in the guides slots. If you have rubbing you are a candidate for removing a small amount of guide plate material, offset lifters, and or offset rockers

I've had push rods that look brand new with out a trace of scuff marks from a year of running 7500 rpm with a big solid cam.
I have to respectfully disagree. The purpose of the guide plate is to keep the push rod aligned. The General eliminated them in later years by designing a rocker arm with a groove in it to keep it centered on the valve. Guide plates require hardened pushrods to prevent the kind of wear experienced by the OP. When I replaced my pushrods with the hardened ones, the problem went away, and had nothing to do with the alignment of the guide plates.
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