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IMHO they're trying to ding you on the labor. They should be able to get the shifter out of the car without removing either the transmission or the engine. Yes, it's tight under there, but the shifter will come out.
Not sure with that model year, but in general, manual trans IS harder. You have an imput shat that goes INTO the motor, and if the tranny can't come back out away from the motor, then the motor itself needs to be moved.
Again, not sure on your model year, though. Be patient, someone on here will know for sure, and give you better info.
They should be able to drop the trans like what they said. If it is a stock shifter it should have a bracket that attaches to the frame. If it is a hurst they bolt right to the side of the trans.
While it is out should I have them look at the clutch, PP, Pilot and throwout bearing?
Unless it has very low mileage I would highly recommend replacing the clutch/PP/resurface flywheel, ect: since the shop is so far into it.
I just made what I believe was my last clutch adjustment and replacing the clutch setup it's not a job I'm looking forward to doing...... and I have a pit in my garage.
If I didn't have the pit I would gladly pay my local shop the $800 to do it for me. No fun at all.
Last edited by Bob Onit; Jun 24, 2011 at 06:27 AM.
They really dont need to remove the trans to get the shifter out but since it is out might as well replace all those items that have wear on them. I have pulled countless transmissions and it is not that bad to do. A little more challenging with a welded in x member but certainly doable.
I'm having issues shifting into reverse. When I try to put my 74 into reverse the reverse lock out doesn't work from the central neutral position. I have to put the car into 1st, then slowly go past neutral and almost go half way down into 2nd, then I can pull the reverse lock out and it'll go up into reverse no problem....what does anyone make of this? Linkage adjustment???
OMG ......
This is most likely a linkage adjustment,the reverse lever is slightly off of the neutral gate. 15 min. to insert the alignment tool , make the adjustment and then try it. OMG
Now your mechanic has removed the console,is going to remove the trans,and has already opened the door on removing the engine.
Talk about opening a can of worms.
After all this they will discover they still have to adjust the shifter AND they probably don't have the alignment tool.
Oh well I should shut up. I hope the outcome is a positive one.
Unless it has very low mileage I would highly recommend replacing the clutch/PP/resurface flywheel, ect: since the shop is so far into it.
I just made what I believe was my last clutch adjustment and replacing the clutch setup it's not a job I'm looking forward to doing...... and I have a pit in my garage.
If I didn't have the pit I would gladly pay my local shop the $800 to do it for me. No fun at all.
ROAD TRIP ! I'll bring my alignment tool,you buy the beer.
How did that old Hurst Shifters advert go? Shift as hard as you want, but don't break your arm.
That's funny.
Years ago I put a set of Liberty gears in a Muncie with a Hurst super shifter,the first time I tried a fast shift from 1st to 2nd I almost dislocated my elbow.
Those were some fast shifting gears.
Personally, I wouldn't fool with the OEM Muncie shifter that may have been welded by a previous owner when a Hurst competition plus is superior. Unless the OP needs the factory shifter for judging.
Personally, I wouldn't fool with the OEM Muncie shifter that may have been welded by a previous owner when a Hurst competition plus is superior. Unless the OP needs the factory shifter for judging.
I agree the Hurst is a superior shifter.
As far as the welding,not so sure these guys know their azz from a hole in the ground.