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I just recently acquired an 82 collector edition. My question is this, I have just replaced the fuel pump and that solved a lot of ill's with regards to power, idle etc. I want to check the timing, but after I pull the plug apart and get the timing mark at 6 degrees BTC, the car will not run. If I advance it to about 10-12 with the connector disconnected, it will. When I plugged it in again and drove the car it pinged like crazy. I kept backing it off until it stoped, but I have no idea where the timing is at right now. Might the distributor be off a tooth? Thats my thought. I also thought that the dist. module may be screwed up. Any suggestions? I'd like to set this thing back to factory spec's. Thanks
if the distributer has not been pulled out ,then it its not 1 tooth off.you can check it by putting the no1 cly to top dead center and see were the rotor is .it should be pointing to number one .i would double check if you had the timing light on number one wire.and i would check to see if you had the correct wire to the computer disconnected.
if the distributer has not been pulled out ,then it its not 1 tooth off.you can check it by putting the no1 cly to top dead center and see were the rotor is .it should be pointing to number one .i would double check if you had the timing light on number one wire.and i would check to see if you had the correct wire to the computer disconnected.
The motor was rebuilt before I bought the car. The distributor seems to be twisted way too far to the back when I get the timing to 6 degrees BTDC. Yes I was on #1, and the wire was disconnected. The dist. seems to be twisted too far for what would be "normal" based on other v8 chevy small blocks I have owned over the years. I suspect the dist. is off a tooth when they put it back in, that would explain the odd orientation of the distributor. Yes I know how to check for TDC, but that means pulling all of the plugs, and the valve cover to do. It shouldn't mess up the static timing if the distributor was off a tooth as long as #1 was in relation to TDC. The car won't run at 6 degrees.
If this thing was thinking it was still in open loop, that may explain things. Maybe the temp sensor? Something is not right, and I may have to start pulling it apart in order to determine what / where.
you only have to pull no one to get some idea where you are .just so that you know .i also would check that all plug wire are where they are suppose to be.i always double check others work.let us know what you find.
you only have to pull no one to get some idea where you are .just so that you know .i also would check that all plug wire are where they are suppose to be.i always double check others work.let us know what you find.
Now there is something I didn't think of! Good point.
But to really check the TDC of #1, you need to pull all of the plugs so you can spin the motor by hand ( wrench also so it doesn't push past the tdc ) and pull the valve cover to watch the valves / timing mark.
Thanks for the idea!
I am going to check the wires first!
I just looked up the reciept that the guy gave me, It has a Comp Cam Energy series 12-206-2 cam, with a 260 /260 and .440/.440 lift.
The one they call for in thier catalog for this motor is a bit different, but close. This may have been all that was available when he rebuilt it.
The '82 is computer controlled (if you still have the original ignition system on the car). It would be best to obtain the Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual for 1982 and follow the guidelines GM specified for checking out and setting up the engine/ignition system.
The '82 is computer controlled (if you still have the original ignition system on the car). It would be best to obtain the Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual for 1982 and follow the guidelines GM specified for checking out and setting up the engine/ignition system.
Thanks, I have it, but as staed the car won't run when I set to spec. I am going to double check the firing order first.
OK I just found that the knock sensor plug was un connected, and the plug melted with the wires shorting out against themselves. That could be why the computer keeps taking away timing. It thinks this thing is pinging all the time! I will order a new plug, and splice / repair, and try to reset the timing again!
I took the melted plug off, and fabricated a new harness extention with some spade connectors as the knock sensor connector isn't available. I was able to set the timing now but at 6 degrees it runs until I connect the plug again. I had to advance it in order to keep it running. The knock sensor is working as it will ping and then the computer is taking away timing and stops knocking, I tweaked the timing until it stopped knocking at all upon acceleration. I have no clue where it is timing wise, but it runs good. Idle is still a bit uneven but I will replace the throttle body injection and plenum gaskets, and clean out the iac motors. I know it can run better, but I don't know if the cam is tweaking the idle a bit.
my knock sensor plug also melted .the sensors for the 82s are expensive.the fix is to go to a knock sensor from a 1987 vette and get the new plug in .the 87 is not as sensitive as the 82.
OK, I have gotten to the bottom of this mystery.
I have been trying to get this car to idle, turns out the previous owner has put a hotter cam in the car. I found his reciept, looked up the part number on Summits site. It is a Comp Cam with a 260/260 duration and
.440/.440 lift. Comp Cams say's it will never idle like it should.
That explains the timing, and idle. Mystery solved. Car runs good with timing advance now! When the wife gets tired of the lumpy idle I guess I will be putting a milder cam in it!
that would be my point when i add the shipping costs i can get the parts any where for that price.keeping my local auto parts guy open may be in my best interest.IMO
But you don't pay sales tax and on any item of any price, that is cheaper than the shipping or greatly mitigates it. Unless it is a large and/or heavy item. I like being able to review the item before I purchase it. When I go to AutoZone or O'Reilly, you get some clerk who just looks up the part number and hands it to you. You have to then inspect to make sure it really is the right part. When I replaced my low temp fan switch, did call O'Reilly and they had two parts but could not tell me anything about what distinguished one from the other.