Door Removal Questions
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
Door Removal Questions
I am removing the driver's side door in order to replace the hinge pins and bushings. My questions are:
To support the door, where at the bottom of the door do I need to place the floor jack? I have read in previous posts that a 2x4 piece of wood is needed.
To completely remove the door, when I disconnect the power window, will I be able to push the window harness connector fits into through the hole in the door where the rubber covering (conduit) fits into?
I have done a search on this subject and I choose to remove the door but the threads were not specific as to where one would place the jack/2x4 or how to get the window wiring harness connector through the hole in the door to completely remove the door from the vehicle.
To support the door, where at the bottom of the door do I need to place the floor jack? I have read in previous posts that a 2x4 piece of wood is needed.
To completely remove the door, when I disconnect the power window, will I be able to push the window harness connector fits into through the hole in the door where the rubber covering (conduit) fits into?
I have done a search on this subject and I choose to remove the door but the threads were not specific as to where one would place the jack/2x4 or how to get the window wiring harness connector through the hole in the door to completely remove the door from the vehicle.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 945
Likes: 10
From: Winston Salem NC
I jacked mine up to adjust for worn bushings. When I did it I put the jack on the floor, the 2x4 on the pad of the jack and a shop towel on top of the 2x4. The shop towel protects the paint.
I jacked at about 1/3 the door length as measured from the end of the door. This was mainly so I could sit on the door sill, jack up slowly and then tighten/loosen fasteners as I needed too.
One word of advice: When finished and you are opening/closing the door, carefully check to make sure that it does not interfere with the fender and chip paint....ask me how I know.
I jacked at about 1/3 the door length as measured from the end of the door. This was mainly so I could sit on the door sill, jack up slowly and then tighten/loosen fasteners as I needed too.
One word of advice: When finished and you are opening/closing the door, carefully check to make sure that it does not interfere with the fender and chip paint....ask me how I know.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
if you have access to an engine hoist, that's the best option. use nylon strapping at the front and rear of door. if you jack from the bottom, you'll need another person to balance the door-and they're heavy!
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
FWIW: You can remove hinge pins and replace busings without removing the doors. You want to ensure the old pin on the top hinge will clear the fender as it comes up.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
It is done. I did call Willcox to ask about the wiring that runs throght the conduit. There were four connectors beneath the dash that needed to be disconnected in order to pull through the hole to remove the door. The pins were in good shape so I reused them. I adjusted the door (by myself) and now the door no longer sags. I like removing the door because imo you will be able to drive the upper pin without worring about chipping the paint on the door or even cracking it.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Fiddle with doors often enough and you soon learn to leave them on and in place any time you can. A genuine "Leave well enough alone" scenario.
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