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I am trying to set the timing in a modified 427/390hp. In order to make it run my initial timing needs to be set really high, like 30 deg. The carb is running rich and I am not reading very much vacuum.
Vac may be fine, although I have heard of thumper cams making enough vacuum to run power brakes, not sure 5 would do it. I'd check the intake and carb for open ports just to make sure. It should run with 10-12 initial timing. Have you tried idling the carb up and then run with lower advance?
I'm not surprised that you need that much timing. Big cams like lots of timing.
I run the timing on my 468 locked at 38° (No curve)
Which version of the Thumpr are you running?
Spray some WD40 around the base of the carb to see if you have a vacuum leak, are you running the stock intake that takes the special stainless carb gasket?
The cam I have is just the small Thumpr Cam (~.530/.545 lift). I tried to order the baffle before but they were out of stock, then i forgot about it so I'll ry that when i get home. Hopefully thats all it is, if not I'll try all the other stuff people suggested. Thanks
That vacuum reading sounds low- I have the factory ZL-1 cam- and it's like .600 and 270* and I pull 14-15" at idle. I'm also running about 16* initial with 41* total advance on 110 octane fuel. 12.5 compression too.
With idle vacuum that low, even if vacuum advance was connected, it probably wouldn't pull any timing anyway. I wouldn't worry too much about the carb running rich right now, it probably has just opened the power valve because of the low vacuum. (it thinks it is running under high load because of the low vacuum)
Give us some information to work with. My first question is always: Did it ever run well with the present combination of parts and tune?
The cam I have is just the small Thumpr Cam (~.530/.545 lift).
Forget what I said before.
That little one shouldn't need that kind of timing and your vacuum should be a lot better.
Has this car ever run properly since the cam was installed, or are you just now getting it running?
If its just gone together, you might want to double check your valve adjustment.
Its a brand new motor, it hasn't run well yet. I'm leading toward valve timing now, unfortunately
So it has never run well, OK, that means all kinds of crazy things could be wrong with it. Well, start with the easy stuff and rule them out first before you start ripping the thing apart. I would go along with Driveshaft and make sure your valves are properly adjusted as a first step.
At this point you are dealing with an unknown problem. You need to systematically test for and rule out possible causes until you discover what is wrong. Don't take shortcuts. Don't skip things because they are difficult to perform. Baby steps, baby steps, we'll get this figured out sooner or later. Probably won't be me, I'm already starting to feel like I'm getting in a little over my head here, but there are some real smart dudes on this forum who will get you squared away.
Couple things. Since running rich, maybe a carb float bowl overflow problem, as a vacuum leak usually causes a lean condition. Also, you mentioned 5 psi vacuum(assuming negative), which is normally measured in inches Hg mercury. If this is the case, about 10" Hg. Maybe not the greatest, but if a big overlap cam, probably not far off.
Couple things. Since running rich, maybe a carb float bowl overflow problem, as a vacuum leak usually causes a lean condition. Also, you mentioned 5 psi vacuum(assuming negative), which is normally measured in inches Hg mercury. If this is the case, about 10" Hg. Maybe not the greatest, but if a big overlap cam, probably not far off.
OK, now, I took the 5psi as just a typo, meaning 5". So, curtis75, what is the idle vacuum, 5" or 10"? Because 10" of vacuum at idle is not unheard of with a big, hairy cam, but 5" is a problem.