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Yes the 5psi was a typo its 5 inHg. I have checked the balancer, which is new and the marks line up. I have double checked the firing order and it is correct unless comp changed the order on their cam. I did a compression check to be safe and all cylinders are 160-180 psi
Spray some WD40 around the base of the carb to see if you have a vacuum leak, are you running the stock intake that takes the special stainless carb gasket?
OK, here is something to be aware of, just in general. I replaced the q-jet on my 'vette with a 600 Holley on Tuesday, and when I got everything hooked up, I started it, and I only got about 10" of vacuum at idle. Took it for a spin, woudn't shift out of first gear. (automatic tranny) Yup! While I was messing with stuff, I must have pushed a little to hard on the vacuum line to the modulator, disconnecting it from the modulator way at the back of the tranny. My point is, it was a pretty big vacuum leak, and you could have sprayed anything you wanted anywhere on the top of the engine and never found it. A test drive made it pretty obvious, but on an automatic tranny car that is not easily driveable, with a big vacuum leak, pinch the rubber hose going to the hard line for the vacuum modulator to rule this out before anything else.
Alright, Curtis, I think your next step needs to be to make sure that the timing mark lines up with tdc on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. If you are not sure how to do this, or have already done it, let us know.
I checked that the timing marks line up, with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole. It seemed to line up. I also checked cam timing which showed to be 4 degrees advanced which is pretty common. I have a manual trans so there aren't any vac. lines running back there. I've pretty much run out of ideas, I'm sure it will be some stupid little thing.
I checked that the timing marks line up, with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole. It seemed to line up. I also checked cam timing which showed to be 4 degrees advanced which is pretty common. I have a manual trans so there aren't any vac. lines running back there. I've pretty much run out of ideas, I'm sure it will be some stupid little thing.
Are you sure it's tdc on the compression stroke? Not the exhaust stroke?
You said in your first post that the carb is running rich. What is it that makes you think that? In an earlier post I mentioned that 5" of vacuum is less than the 6.5 that would open a typical stock power valve, but disregard that, the power valve has no effect on the idle circuit.
I always stuff a paper towel in the spark plug hole when verifying compression stroke. In my experience, it will shoot the paper towel out on the compression stroke.
I always stuff a paper towel in the spark plug hole when verifying compression stroke. In my experience, it will shoot the paper towel out on the compression stroke.
Hey, that's a great idea! So simple, an idiot could have thought of it. So easy, a Cave man could do it. So cheap, a guy with a master's degree in philosophy could afford it. And yet, effective.
Hey, even the experts can get it wrong. I remember on the engine dyno prior to firing my rebuilt engine for the first time, the operator asked my rebuilder if he got the distributor in right. His answer was "well if I didn't, it could only be 180 degrees off."
It is on TDC on the compression stroke. I held my thumb over the spark plug hole. The carb is running rich but I'm not really worried about it. I can play aound with it later
are you running the stock intake that takes the special stainless carb gasket?
If you are running the stock intake with the smiley face the stainless baffle is a must,otherwise you have an open vacuum path to the exhaust heat riser crossover which will upset your carb and cause a rich condition.
I was having similar issues, seemed like I need alot of initial timing, unstable idle when I put it in gear, all kinds of things. At 800 rpm I was pulling about 8 inches of vacuum. Then found that Lars had posted a paper on timing. It helped me check my centrifugal and vacuum advance. After following the procedure he spelled out I found my vacuum can wasn't right for my application. Since I've changed it, the engine runs and idles much better. Unfortunatley, I don't have the link for the paper, all I have is a printed copy in my garage, but maybe someone here does, our a search would find it for you.
PROBLEM SOLVED,
Turns out the Ebay distributor was bad. It currently has my distributor out of my 75 (so no tach) but it seems to run great, so glad its finally working. Thanks for all the help.