OK so my budget Vortec build has hit a hitch....lol.
The set of vortec heads I got were cheap because one of the rocker studs had been bent when the head was dropped. The stud had to come out so I decided I might as well pull all the studs and install screw ins.

So I start at the other end of the head and the first stud pulls out easy. The second is harder but pulls out. So each one seems to be getting harder and harder to pull when I finally reach the last one which is bent....not much but bent all the same.

I tried just pulling on it and it just seemed to go no where. I had applied a PB type of spray and let it soak for several hours but I was fighting a losing battle.
I applied some localised heat but still no go.

I manged to straighten up the stud a bit so that it was very nearly straight and thought I might as well just go for it. I added a bar to my ratchet and began turning. Just as I was about to give up, the ratchet spun and the stud snapped!

So I have a head with one stud, snapped off just at the threaded section so I guess I have approx 3/4 inch of plain stud exposed.

My idea is to cut it flush with the head so that I can drill it exactly center starting with a small drill and slowly getting bigger untill I can use a small punch to collapse the stud in on itself and remove it.

I also toyed with the idea of welding on a piece of threaded stud but as it is not exactly straight, any pulling will just bind it even more.

What would you guys do? Worst case scenario is taking it to a local engine shop who will probably charge me at least $50 ( UK prices! ) so A decent set of drill bits is my first stop.

 

Worth a shot. IF you don't have easy access to a drill press. Make sure you get it dead on center- it'll make life easier. Also, look around the boss for the stud and make sure it's not pinned.

 

I have access to a pillar drill ( what we call them here in the UK ) so I was going to set it up on one of the emty stud holes to get the correct angle then move the head to the snapped one.

Do you agree that cutting it off flush with the head is the best place to start or would you try any other method before drilling?

 

Try a die to thread the stud, put a nut and a couple of washers on it, heat the boss,and crank it out. GOOD LUCK!

 

if you have 3/4" showing, thread the stud... but 2 nuts on it and tighten them to themselves... then turn the one that is needed to back out the stud (probably the bottom nut).....

 

I agree with onaqwst- try and cut threads on what's left of the stud and see if you can pull it that way. At worst, it breaks off again and you have to drill it out. Go slow- odds are that stud is very hard. And yes, I'd cut it off flush and flat so you have a good surface to start drilling from.

 

Will thread it if I have room to get the die in there.

Dont think using the 2 nut method will work as its a pressed in stud so will go for thread and then pull using washers.

Wish me luck! lol.

 

Hi.

I dont have a clue what these are called in english but a kit like this usually works pretty well.
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Ve...sats-25-delar/

There is a dedicated drill for each of the starshaped pins in the kit, one drill the hole, gently hammer in the starshaped pin, slide on the nutpiece and undo with a wrench.

Off course it helps to heat up the cylinderhead prior to start untorquing the stud.

If the stud is pressed in i would just drill it out step by step untill i reched the edge of the hole, the remnants shouldnt be very dificult to remove.
Just be aware not to damage the cylindrehead..

Im shure that if you contact a engine workshop they are willing to do the job for you.

//Ricky.

 

Take a look at Summit or Jegs tools: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900136/ There may not be enough stud left for for broken stud to be pulled with a tool. But u should use the tool for alignment when tapping and installing new studs. Also u may need to istall a threaded insert - Heli Coil - for the broken stud.

cardo0

 

Would it make sense to thread the 3/4,install a tall nut,then thread a stud into the tall nut and go back to pulling ? I wonder also if welding the stud into the nut would heat it up enough to help ?

 

what i did was thread the stud and used bolts and washers to turn mine out...and then tap it using the tap guide that attaches to the stud next to it so you have good alignment. good luck bob

 

Maybe try a couple things , but before you do any damage I'd take it to the machine shop and get it out in a hurry. A large Dowel puller should get it out. Maybe $10 to $20 about ten min.

 

I'm all for DIY ... but ... buying & chasing after bits & pieces and praying for good results ... when someone else does the worrying & the work for $50 ... pay the man seems more practical.

 

I've had folks bring stuff in after failed attempts themselves and have made a simple job a major event cleaning up the mess. Greatly increasing the cost.
Like Jackson said!!!!

 

There's a sign in the machine shop I use. It says:

Broken bolt removal - $20.00 each
If you already tried to remove it - $40.00 each

 

That's about the way it works.

 

Welding a nut onto the broken stud is a very good idea and will probably get the job done.

Taking it to a machine shop and having it done is a great idea.

Ralph

 

Well....
I enquired at my local machine shop Inc taxes, $85.

So, I removed 3 valve springs, cleaned up the stud and threaded it as best I could. Nearest size die I had was 10mm.
Put some washers on it and wound down a 10mm nut. Stud moved a little before nut decided it was too soft and the threads ripped out of it. Only had some crap nuts so will buy a few hardened ( grade 8? ) ones tomorrow.

Hopefully saving myself around $83 and giving me the satisfaction of saying I did that!

 

The $85 bucks is starting to sound pretty good. If you're still really wanting to do it yourself, anytime you run into a jammed mechanical fitting, heating the surrounding surface with an oxy/acetelyne torch is usually the best way.

 

That seems twice to high to me but I'm old.

The advantage of welding it is teo fold.

One, it becomes part of the stud.

Two, is everything gets hot and loosens up.\
You may want to try it while every thing is still hot.

Ralph