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Missed a couple of 2nd - 3rd shifts last year at the track. That Muncie shifter does not inspire confidence. Hit the neutral gate and it's like hitting a wall. Tough on the wrist.
Anyone know how to improve the situation? Going back to the track soon.
The shifter can be set to "short throw" which means the travel of the shifter is shorter from gear to gear. Get under the car and look at the shifter rods and the levers comming out of the tranny. The tranny lever have two holes in them and your shifter is most likely set to the "top" holes. You need to put the rods from the shifter in the "bottom holes". Its simply geometry, with the rods in the lower holes it take less travel of the shifter to go from gear to gear. There is a special tool you must make to put in a slot in the shifter to keep it centered while you adjust the rod ends for the bottom holes. Any good shop manual will have the specs on this tool. This may help you. Also your shifter may be worn out. All the major catalogs have rebuild kits and it is easy to do.
John
I ruined 3rd gear due to the same problem. Had to replace the gear. While I was doing it I replaced the Muncie with a Hurst. have not missed the 2 to 3 shift yet. A huge difference in shifting.
Go with the HURST. I installed the HURST in my 69 big block and the difference is unbelievable. I bought the shifter on eBAY for $50 and bought an install kit. It works very well.
Also, check you engine mounts. If the engine is twisting too much, your stock shifter rods will bind up.
From experience, I would say your shifter is worn out. I would also recommend a Hurst. The difference is like night and day. If your car has a lot of miles on it, you might consider checking your forks and sliders.
:cheers:
:smash: :smash: :chevy My answer is HURST Competition Plus 4-speed but I'll add that you should check your motor mounts too. Why? The reason the stock shifting setup doesn't work as well as the hurst is becaust the stock shifter is mounted to the frame and the hurst is mounted to the transmission. Under high loading conditions, the geometry between the transmission and the frame changes but your shifter rods don't accomodate, they stay the same. If your motor mounts are shot, the engine will torque over even more; but even if they're fine, the stock shifter still has to overcome the difference in distance between the static state and the high torque state. The HURST shifter moves with the transmission and keeps the geometry the same no matter what. I also highly recommend the stock looking shifter, works great, looks great. Good Luck!
Thanks for all the replys, guys. Sounds like it's pretty unanimous about a Hurst. Did replace the motor mounts. Fan started to hit the shroud under hard acceleration last year so I knew they were gone. Got interlocking mounts to limit motion.
Ditto regarding the other posts here in going with a HURST shifter mechanism set-up,..did this on my '63 and keep the stock look with a bolt on shifter and works very smoothly,..am considering same for my '72 LT-1,.. :chevy :cheers:
There's a reason that Hurst made so much money selling shifters back in the 60s & 70s. The stock shifters were just THAT bad! I don't have a Hurst yet, but I'm willing to accept donations.