68 rear suspension
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: littleton colorado
68 rear suspension
Hi all:
Looks to me like this site should prove invaluable to me as i start to get my Vette back on the road. It's been in the garage for about 7 years, ever since i rebuilt the motor. Not a hot rod, but a nice street 350.
I just pulled all of the rear suspension out and have a couple questions. First, the rear struts are considerably bowed. Is this normal? figured they would be straight.
I also saw where some young guy had done an excellent job of documenting his rear diff rebuild with lots of great pics. Problem is i can't find it again. May not attempt it on my own, but would like to print it out.
Lastly, the trailing arms look pretty good overall to me, any thoughts on Ecklers for parts and rebuilds. I have ordered a few things in the past (such as gas tank) which seemed fine.
Anyone in the Denver Colorado area that could recommend shops?
Looks to me like this site should prove invaluable to me as i start to get my Vette back on the road. It's been in the garage for about 7 years, ever since i rebuilt the motor. Not a hot rod, but a nice street 350.
I just pulled all of the rear suspension out and have a couple questions. First, the rear struts are considerably bowed. Is this normal? figured they would be straight.
I also saw where some young guy had done an excellent job of documenting his rear diff rebuild with lots of great pics. Problem is i can't find it again. May not attempt it on my own, but would like to print it out.
Lastly, the trailing arms look pretty good overall to me, any thoughts on Ecklers for parts and rebuilds. I have ordered a few things in the past (such as gas tank) which seemed fine.
Anyone in the Denver Colorado area that could recommend shops?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 9
The struts should be straight. If the struts are bowed, they are damaged. Scrap them and get new ones. If they are already bent, they may flex under high cornering loads and create a variable camber/toe situation, and the car will feel real squirrelly.
If you want to rebuild the trailing arms, and the front bushings have failed, use a stock type front rubber bushing, for a street car. A poly bushing will definitely increase the noise, vibration and harshness from the rear suspension.
If you want to rebuild the trailing arms, and the front bushings have failed, use a stock type front rubber bushing, for a street car. A poly bushing will definitely increase the noise, vibration and harshness from the rear suspension.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 68n,
The parts dealers that I've had good experiences with are ZIP Products in Virginia, Corvette Central in Michigan, Paragon Reproductions in Michigan, and Wilcox who has a good presence on this Forum.
You do need to be careful with parts because often they are not just what you hoped they'd be. The configuration and quality of parts continues to be a problem for restorers, especially interior parts and exterior bumpers and trim.
Often restoring your original parts is a good alternative.
Regards,
Alan
I/We would love to see some pictures of what you're working on.
The parts dealers that I've had good experiences with are ZIP Products in Virginia, Corvette Central in Michigan, Paragon Reproductions in Michigan, and Wilcox who has a good presence on this Forum.
You do need to be careful with parts because often they are not just what you hoped they'd be. The configuration and quality of parts continues to be a problem for restorers, especially interior parts and exterior bumpers and trim.
Often restoring your original parts is a good alternative.
Regards,
Alan
I/We would love to see some pictures of what you're working on.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
Wear in stub axles/rear suspension parts can create a situation where the take-up in the strut rod camber-adjustment cams is not enough to properly set rear camber; as a result, helpful alignment techs have been known to bend the rods. 
My driver's side rod was bent in this manner.
search posts by GRT1999 and stinger12 for differential rebuilding pictorials. helped me a ton.
Ecklers is fine for parts, but if you are talking about having a vendor rebuild your trailing arms/RW bearings, there are a number of people and shops who specialize in this work. Doa search of this forum, and make some phone calls.
Good luck!
My driver's side rod was bent in this manner. search posts by GRT1999 and stinger12 for differential rebuilding pictorials. helped me a ton.
Ecklers is fine for parts, but if you are talking about having a vendor rebuild your trailing arms/RW bearings, there are a number of people and shops who specialize in this work. Doa search of this forum, and make some phone calls.
Good luck!
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 20
From: Central Michigan
another 68!Here's the thread you're after, I was checking it out as well
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ild-paper.html
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: littleton colorado
68 rear suspension
another 68!Here's the thread you're after, I was checking it out as well
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ild-paper.html
Thx again
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Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: littleton colorado
posted a few pictures of my68 project. They show the rear suspension removed and the start of cleaning some rust to get ready for painting. I intend to clean and paint all underneath before putting anything back. Notice the "bowed" strut rods. was considering rebuilding the diff myself, but am having second thoughts. what can anyone suggest to prep cleaned parts for paint (rust converter / primer). doubt that i will ever get all the rust.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: littleton colorado
sorry, that link you gave me is probably the one i was thinking about. If you have not seen my last post, i am looking for input on what to prep frame and crossmember etc with
(rust converter / inhibitor / primer) prior to painting. Also, what do you think of the spray can undercoating. I used some lots-o-years ago on an austin healy i had and it seemed to work just fine.
thx jesse
(rust converter / inhibitor / primer) prior to painting. Also, what do you think of the spray can undercoating. I used some lots-o-years ago on an austin healy i had and it seemed to work just fine.
thx jesse
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
I have had good results with a wire brush in a drill, followed by a wipe-down with lacquer thinner, then I use a product called One Step (this is a tannic acid- based rust converter) with a good topcoat. I recommend Eastwood Chassis Black (satin or gloss), and Seymour Cast Blast and Alumi-Blast as far as paint is concerned. Interstate products makes the One Step, and gallon is around $40 bucks. The great thing about that stuff is that you don't need to get all the rust off; in fact it works better on rusted surfaces.
Before
After
Before
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