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I just purchased my 69...350 redone with 4 barrel Holly...I read through the oil thread and I'm thinking of going with the Royal Purple. I not racing the car but love to let her loose a little on the highway...I wondering about using some of the lucas product with the royal purple line of oil...Also any real reccomendations for oil filters with these oils or GM standards..Newbie sorry for all the questions..Codi
I just purchased my 69...350 redone with 4 barrel Holly...I read through the oil thread and I'm thinking of going with the Royal Purple. I not racing the car but love to let her loose a little on the highway...I wondering about using some of the lucas product with the royal purple line of oil...Also any real reccomendations for oil filters with these oils or GM standards..Newbie sorry for all the questions..Codi
Do NOT put additives in any motor oil. The oil company's Chemical Engineers carefully blend the additive package to do what they intend for it to do. So don't mess with it. If you do, you will only make it worse than it was to start with. Royal Purple is one of the best motor oils on the market and should be used right out of the bottle as is.
Now, regarding Royal Purple with an old style flat tappet cam, which I will assume it still has in it, since you didn't say otherwise. They are just now coming out with the new Royal Purple HPS (for High Performance Street) that has higher levels of zinc/phos anti-wear additives in it than their normal API certified oil has, because that oil is intended for more modern cars with cats. I've ordered some of that new HPS myself from Summit, and was told it would be shipping out on the 25th, today. I'd suggest you use that new Royal Purple HPS to protect your cam and lifters, rather than their regular stuff in Auto Parts stores. You'll have to order it from Summit or maybe Jegs, because it will almost certainly never be in regular Auto Parts stores.
As for oil filters, I use K&N oil filters in all my Hotrods. I'm very pleased with them and highly recommend them. And those you should be able to find in normal Auto Parts stores.
Thanks 540 RAT I was kinda thinka Royal Purple should be stand alone fine also...I have the headers with the hookers so not yet sure if a long or short filter will fit best..Codi
any diesel truck oil 15W-40 will work just fine and still does! ... don't be swayed by the naysayers / unreliable oil analysis data sets ... nothing wrong w/synthetics ... but not necessary.
Per some recent dialogue on the Forum, Rotella oil (which was held in high regard because it maintained high levels of zinc) has reduced the level of zinc in their oil. Do some research on the web about what level of zinc is recommended for flat tappet systems so that you can know what to buy and how to check out the specs on the labels.
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Per some recent dialogue on the Forum, Rotella oil (which was held in high regard because it maintained high levels of zinc) has reduced the level of zinc in their oil. Do some research on the web about what level of zinc is recommended for flat tappet systems so that you can know what to buy and how to check out the specs on the labels.
Take a look over on the NCRS TDB and you will see a printout of an oil analysis that was just performed after an oil change with over 4,000 miles on the oil. Rotella 15W40 (CJ-4) was the oil that was used. The oil still retained between 1100 to 1200 PPM of zinc/phosphorous. That will diminish as miles are accumulated. Pretty solid evidence that the levels are still sufficient for flat tappet motors.
I have been using Shell Rotella in all of my old Corvettes with no issues whatsoever.
Take a look over on the NCRS TDB and you will see a printout of an oil analysis that was just performed after an oil change with over 4,000 miles on the oil. Rotella 15W40 (CJ-4) was the oil that was used. The oil still retained between 1100 to 1200 PPM of zinc/phosphorous. That will diminish as miles are accumulated. Pretty solid evidence that the levels are still sufficient for flat tappet motors.
I have been using Shell Rotella in all of my old Corvettes with no issues whatsoever.
Take a look over on the NCRS TDB and you will see a printout of an oil analysis that was just performed after an oil change with over 4,000 miles on the oil. Rotella 15W40 (CJ-4) was the oil that was used. The oil still retained between 1100 to 1200 PPM of zinc/phosphorous. That will diminish as miles are accumulated. Pretty solid evidence that the levels are still sufficient for flat tappet motors.
I have been using Shell Rotella in all of my old Corvettes with no issues whatsoever.
Yes, and some conversation this week by another poster here on CF directly with Shell this week reconfirmed that Rotella T 15W40 CJ-4 still has ~1200ppm of zinc.
I'm sure the Shell tech people must wonder why they get bombarded with the same question over and over. There again, it's virtually impossible to kill an internet myth..................
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Yes, and some conversation this week by another poster here on CF directly with Shell this week reconfirmed that Rotella T 15W40 CJ-4 still has ~1200ppm of zinc.
I'm sure the Shell tech people must wonder why they get bombarded with the same question over and over. There again, it's virtually impossible to kill an internet myth..................
Yes, That is Peter who is a local friend of mine. He has a 67 427/390. It's pretty compelling evidence. While the CJ-4 oils may have slightly reduced ZDDP levels from the earlier CI-4 rated oils, they still have sufficient levels for these motors.
If you love that car, put in the biggest oil filter that will fit. A bigger filter has less flow restriction, so more filtered oil will get to your bearings.
I have a 74 small block with the factory exhaust manifolds, and I can run the 2 quart medium duty truck filter. The filter and the oil pan end up the same distance from the ground. AC used to call it a PF-932. NAPA sells it today as a 1794 Gold series. It's a Wix 51794. It's so big, though, you will want to fill it with oil before you install it, so that the no oil pressure time is minimized when you first start it after the oil and filter change.
If you have headers and a clearance problem, you might be able to run the 1 ton pickup truck filter. Was an AC PF-35. I think NAPA calls it a 1061 Gold. Get the one with no check valve.
Filling the oil filter before you install it is a good idea on any car.