ok...im sure that this has been asked numerous times here but i have to ask...
i put a JVC CD player in my 79 and replaced the speakers with new ones in the original locations...they sound like crap! LOL the fronts rattle the cheap plastic dash speaker grills and the rear mounts arnt attached well at all...
(2 screws one just one end of each)...anyway...i have lousy treble and almost no bass...so...
we're (me and my friend who owns a car stereo place) thinkin of putting 2 tweeters in the dash and using foam tape between the grills and the dash to stop the rattling...
id like to put a little bigger speakers in the rear with possibly a small sub woofer...
also we're considering putting a couple of small mid range speakers in the sides of the console covers, all the way forward, kinda straight down below the radio...that would be just ahead of where your right leg rests against it when you drive...
what are some of your opinions? has anyone here built a speaker box that could go accross the rear compartment? one that would still allow the t-tops to be stowed there? and what about the mid ranges in the console sides?
i would very much appreciate any suggestions and pictures that any of you would like to contribute...thanx, gary

 

Here's a start
Without Bazooka Tube
With Bazooka Tube
I also installed a seperate on/off switch and volume **** for the bazooka.


[Modified by Armstrong, 9:58 PM 4/27/2002]

 

That's a nice install Armstrong. I am still working on my system. Need to get the equilizer and an amp hooked up soon. I have some more important things to do right now though, like motor/tranny swap.
I have a all Pioneer System. Here's pics of the two 12" subs in their box and two 6x9's in the original stock location in the corners.

 

Ooh! You can fit 12s back there if you squeeze!

That makes my plan seem viable.

I want to do a box with two 8" separates and a single 10" in the center.

And still have room for t-tops. :D

 

Here is what I did in my '79 this past winter.

I fit 2 10" subs in a divided 12x8x24 box and built the 2 side pieces to fit to the contour on the sides. There are 6x9s on each side mounted at an angle and pointing forward. There is about 4.5 inches under the center box that the t-tops slide under when needed. The shade will also still pull forward and hide all of the goodies. To install I used and few flat and angle braces and connected the center box to the sides. It is a very tight fit against the sides but I still secured the shole thing to the metal rail that the rear carpet hooks over just below the pull shade. After it was installed I covered the whole thing in carpet that was included in the interior package I got some years back. (knew I saved it for something) Hope it gives you some ideas.

If I had to do it again I would most likely just buy a 4" midrange and a tweeter for each side instead of using the 6x9s. I already the 6x9s so I did not what to spend the extra money. A 4" would fit fine facing forward without having to cut all of the angles.

I'm gonna link to the pic cause it is huge.

http://home.houston.rr.com/notmuchhere/stereo2.JPG


[Modified by PatG, 11:45 PM 4/27/2002]

 

In my younger days I worked at a custom auto sound installer. I've Built many sub boxes and and built many systems and competed in many local and national sound offs . C3s are tough for setting up really good sound due to lack of good locations for speaker placement. If you don't want to go all out with custom door pannels and such, I would recommend you go with a good plate speaker up front. Alpine used to make a nice 4X6 plate speaker that has a 3 inch mid range and a dome twetter that will drop right in to the stock front locations and sound really good (and won't rattle). These mid and upper frequencys are very directional and need to be as close to ear level as possible. Run these speakers off the radios internal amp. Ideally, you would then mount a mid-bass speakers in the lower part of the door or console. Mid-bass speakers are not as directional and can be mounted lower (realative to your ear) without degrading sound quality. You'll probably have trouble with anything larger that a 5" speaker in the console.(I haven't tried this so it's a guess) you also need a passive crossover (a coil) to run these speakers at the proper frequency. These would be driven by a good mid-size amp connected to the front RCA outputs on your radio. As for the bass frequencies, you could go with simple tube or a custom box in back with a single 10" or a pair of 8" woofers. That way you could keep the box small enough to be able to still have at least a small storage area back there. Run these on a mid sized amp that can be bridged MONO and another passive crossover. Sub bass speaker are none directional so they don't need to be run stereo. The ohm ratings and amp sizes are important. Don't go to Wally World or discount house. Go to a professional Auto Sound Store and they will be able to direct you to the right components that work best and sound great. I discribed a 2 amp system but you could use a single 4 channel amp and bridge 2 of the channels for the sub. More speakers doesn't always mean better sound. You'd be suprized at what a professional can do with just a few well placed and properly powered speakers. Ask a lot of questions and Good luck.


[Modified by kermit1654, 5:52 AM 4/28/2002]


[Modified by kermit1654, 5:57 AM 4/28/2002]

 

I put two Kappa plate 4x6 speakers in the dash powered from the raido amp. Then I cut the kick panels and fit a 6" kappa infinity speaker in that space..IT WAS TIGHT, but it fit. These are powered from an amp. In the back I am leaning toward a single 10" located in the corner where the original speaker went at an angle. Amp to this one as well. -TK

 

[/QUOTE]

I don't see how that box is big enough to handle 12" speakers. It appears to be only about 4" deep and those speakers must require at least .75 cu. ft. to get good bass out of them.

http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/edu...nstruction.cfm

 

PatG, that's a clean installation! :yesnod:

I've just never been a fan of 6x9s. I've got them in my car right now, but they just never quite have the clean sound to me...

 

I am using them with a high pass filter set to ~200 Hz from the amp so I am not looking for any real low notes from them. The 2 10"s provide plenty of that :D

 

I just bough alpine 6x9 for about $170. Also the MTX 6x9 boxes were $28. Driven through 7 band passive eq and 125watt amp. These things kick just as good or better then my old boxed MTX 8" road thunder. Well worth the money. I never heard 6x9 sound this good and loud before. I mean literaly thumpin like mad.

 

Oval speakers are always inferior to circular ones. the reason being that on an oval style speaker the driver is still a circle and there for the stress on the cone is not perfectly even.

im doing to 10s in the rear and putting 6.5" in the kick panels. the kicks are considered a "sweet spot" because the music can be shot right at your ear rather than bouncing off glass like the dash or hitting the back of your head like the rear style 6x9s. My speakers are all eclipse and the tweets will probably be door panel mounted or dash mounted. the subs are 10" Aluminums and will have 1400watts going to them. and im gonna try like hell to paint the aluminum cones to match my car. prowler orange with ghost flames.

im also doing an all fiberglass box. i was using the subs in my 94 S10 Blazer and i noticed a diffrence in acceleration the first time i drove with the heavy MDF box. i know i wouldnt notice too much with the vette, but i want as little weight as possible. Plus i can make the box a weird shape rather than have hard edges.

 

I had a place make me a custom box for two 12's that would fit in the back storage area and still leave me some room. I have had a 500 watt amp hooked up to them while they were in the box, and they hit pretty good. I just measured them and the box is 5" deep at the top, and 8" deep at the bottom. How do you figure out how much cubic feet a box has? length * width * depth - speaker volume? :confused:

 

A set of these are pretty inexpensive and are easily removed. $150 for an 8" Kicker pair from crutchfield.

 

:seeya Here's mine! KENWOOD :yesnod: :cool:





[Modified by Intimidator454, 8:13 PM 4/28/2002]

 

Pat,

One small correction on Box Sizing.. Small boxes WILL work with Subs
that require more airspace than you are giving them. The differance is that
with a small sub box you have to nearly quadruple the power input to match
the output.


EG: 3 Cu Ft Box 2 12" DVC's may bit 140DB on 400 solid watts RMS

Take the same subs and cut the box down to .750 Cubic Feet and you would
need 1400 watts RMS to attain the same levels.