Failure to start after body off.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
Failure to start after body off.
I guess I couldn't get too lucky....
Help me track down where my issue is on my 69 4 speed 350(70's LT-1). I have interior lights and 12v at the alternator.
When i turn the key i get nothing....
So where should I test for power to track this down?
Help me track down where my issue is on my 69 4 speed 350(70's LT-1). I have interior lights and 12v at the alternator.
When i turn the key i get nothing....
So where should I test for power to track this down?
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Aug 7, 2011 at 08:34 AM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 734
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From: Bryan Texas
Are you getting voltage at the ignition switch connector that's on top of the lower column... above the pedals? Check for rod action too.
As zz71s said, checking for voltage at the horn relay is a good iidea too. The big harness connection at the firewall, behind the fuse block could be an issue too.
As zz71s said, checking for voltage at the horn relay is a good iidea too. The big harness connection at the firewall, behind the fuse block could be an issue too.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi pv,
"nothing" as in nothing, or, lights/horn etc. but no crank?
Did the clutch interlock get hooked up when the body went back on? The engine won't turn over unless the clutch is fully depressed.
Regards,
Alan
"nothing" as in nothing, or, lights/horn etc. but no crank?
Did the clutch interlock get hooked up when the body went back on? The engine won't turn over unless the clutch is fully depressed.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Aug 7, 2011 at 06:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
I have lights but you turn the key and nothing. nothing tries to prime or turn over. I don't have the interior dash put together other than the driver side. So maybe I need the gauge cluster put together for it to start? I also don't have the headlights in so those vacuum hoses and power plugs are loose.
I have a feeling it was my starter wiring? but would that keep the fuel pump from turning on?
I put the tach cable, green/yellow wire from the trans as well as hooked up the linkage.
I guess I just don't know what gets power and when for it to start turning over.
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Aug 7, 2011 at 08:32 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
Are you getting voltage at the ignition switch connector that's on top of the lower column... above the pedals? Check for rod action too.
As zz71s said, checking for voltage at the horn relay is a good iidea too. The big harness connection at the firewall, behind the fuse block could be an issue too.
As zz71s said, checking for voltage at the horn relay is a good iidea too. The big harness connection at the firewall, behind the fuse block could be an issue too.
I was thinking it was something major or broken and read your post and it dawned on me i just threw the column in there to be able to the wheels and move the car a while back
Off to check!!!!!
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
Okay here is where i'm at.
Interior is still only at 20% Can this cause it to not start?
Hood and headlights are not in but I don't think that should matter...
The coil i have 1 on the negative and 3 on the +. I labeled them before I took them off so I would think they're okay.
Starter was pretty simple... 1 black, 1 red...
The horn relay I never touched. It stayed with the body and went back on without me messing it up so i'm pretty positive it isn't that.
All I think that is wrong would be the wiring of the starter and solenoid... but would that make nothing happen when you turn the key?
Interior is still only at 20% Can this cause it to not start?
Hood and headlights are not in but I don't think that should matter...
The coil i have 1 on the negative and 3 on the +. I labeled them before I took them off so I would think they're okay.
Starter was pretty simple... 1 black, 1 red...
The horn relay I never touched. It stayed with the body and went back on without me messing it up so i'm pretty positive it isn't that.
All I think that is wrong would be the wiring of the starter and solenoid... but would that make nothing happen when you turn the key?
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Fisher, IL
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
Key on/off?
do I unplug the wires and test them at the plug?
If they're not getting power then where does that point to problem wise?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
If the reds are not hot then you probably have some internal wiring harness issues , BUT I don't think that likely since the car ran before.
If you have power on the reds , next you turn your key to on and check the 12 orange,12 brown and 12 pink for power.
If you have power there,turn your key to start and test the 12 purple.
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Fisher, IL
I have 12v at the red(singular for my car) in off and acc
I have 12v at the brown and pink in acc
No orange for my car either
but couldn't get anything for purple.
which from my wiring diagram traces back to a clutch pedal switch(synchro) and that goes to a neutral safety switch....
Not sure what that all means but.... now what?
I have 12v at the brown and pink in acc
No orange for my car either
but couldn't get anything for purple.
which from my wiring diagram traces back to a clutch pedal switch(synchro) and that goes to a neutral safety switch....
Not sure what that all means but.... now what?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Sounds as if your missing the black plug , do you only have a white plug in the switch ?
EDIT- Just for the record the white must go in first then the black.
EDIT- Just for the record the white must go in first then the black.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 7, 2011 at 12:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
The black only has the 1 red wire and that's it.
Nothing that I changed and my wiring diagram for my year confirms this in that there was only 1 red and no orange. So as far as I know it seems to be correct.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Hmmm,let do some checking,the way the switch is made it needs 2 inputs.
Let me look and see if the T&T switch is different internally,I know the black and white get reversed but I don't know why wiring would change.
Are you sure some wire didn't fall out of the plugs ?
Let me look and see if the T&T switch is different internally,I know the black and white get reversed but I don't know why wiring would change.
Are you sure some wire didn't fall out of the plugs ?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I have 12v at the red(singular for my car) in off and acc
I have 12v at the brown and pink in acc
No orange for my car either
but couldn't get anything for purple.
which from my wiring diagram traces back to a clutch pedal switch(synchro) and that goes to a neutral safety switch....
I have 12v at the brown and pink in acc
No orange for my car either
but couldn't get anything for purple.
which from my wiring diagram traces back to a clutch pedal switch(synchro) and that goes to a neutral safety switch....
So you have voltages only in the ACC position on the brown and pink , not the ON position ?