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then level and zero the gauge. ........................................ .........
, level the gauge and read your caster angle.
This is what I don't follow: what gauge, and where to place?
The caster angle is the angle between the line through the balljoints in the knuckle assy, and the vertical [plumb line], but how do you get at the [centre of] the balljoints/steering pins?
Especially on a Corvette, which is very low, and no room in the fender.
My lift is also not going to help, as this is a 2 poster.
@Glen, I know, it only [!] affects the steering characteristics, in particular the straight line stability.
Cor
Last edited by VetteV8; Aug 26, 2011 at 04:22 AM.
Reason: add re. @ Glen
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
The typical caster/camber gauge mounts at the center of the wheel. IIRC, with a substitute tool such as a digital level you'll have to take readings at 20* turned each way and multiply the difference by 1.5. Measuring caster at the ball joints themselves isn't the routine method.
Caster is not a tire wearing adjustment. I.e. it has no bearing on tire wear. Only camber and toe effect tire wear.
Caster is put in so the geometry of the front end tends to bring the wheels to straight ahead, add a bit of directional stability. This along with toe in. Without it I suspect you'd be constantly correcting to keep the car going straight.
Toe in will chew up tires quickly if it's off. Camber too on cornering.
Last edited by BBCorv70; Aug 26, 2011 at 02:26 PM.
Caster is put in so the geometry of the front end tends to bring the wheels to straight ahead, add a bit of directional stability. This along with toe in. Without it I suspect you'd be constantly correcting to keep the car going straight.
Toe in will chew up tires quickly if it's off. Camber too on cornering.
When I think about caster, I visualize a motorcycle's front forks. A lot of caster makes for nice, stable steering that will self-center nicely, but is not really very responsive. A small amount of caster will make for very quick, responsive steering at the expense of stability.
When I think about caster, I visualize a motorcycle's front forks. A lot of caster makes for nice, stable steering that will self-center nicely, but is not really very responsive. A small amount of caster will make for very quick, responsive steering at the expense of stability.
I do a ton of bike work, and never really thought of rake and trail being the same as caster, I can put the two together in my head easily. The sport type bikes with less rake and more trail have a very quick turn in and less straightline stability or forgiveness, whereas a longer rake and less trail has awesome straightline centering but steer like crap, try to ride a chopper in the twisties! Thats why I like cruisers, the best of both worlds!
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by scottyp99
...A lot of caster makes for nice, stable steering that will self-center nicely, but is not really very responsive. A small amount of caster will make for very quick, responsive steering at the expense of stability...
Somebody has been paying attention.
IMCO, a sportscar such as a Corvette doesn't really need more than 2* to 3* caster, especially with manual steering, and despite the notion that if some is good twice as much ought to be better. Many an aftermarket control arm would have me trying to dial caster back out...
Look up Talimena drive, it will change your impression of Oklahoma. Most of the eastern half is tree covered and hilly. The SE has the winding stair mtns and are awesome on a bike or in a Vette! But i ride all over the country and prefer Arkansas over anywhere for pure riding enjoyment and fun. 100K miles on 2 bikes in 8 years....
Skunkworks I'm confused. I thought that more shims on the rear and less on the front would pivot the ball joint forward and reduce castor not increase castor.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Grampy
Skunkworks I'm confused. I thought that more shims on the rear and less on the front would pivot the ball joint forward and reduce castor not increase castor.
On the C2/C3 chassis our control arm shafts are inboard of the mount, which means adding shims at the rear increases caster.