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I am looking at replacing my steering column and was wondering, other than a stock replacement, what would fit. I have been looking at the ones from Flaming River but don't have a clue as to what would work in my car. It is a 1980 and has all new bearings, signal switch and horn parts but the tilt is very loose for some reason. It locks in place but still has a lot of movement. I'm looking at replacing the column as I am not a big fan of the Tilt/Tele column. Any advice that you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
You can fix most if not all problems with your exisitng colomn. What is it that you don't like about the tilt/tele column? There aren't a lot of alternatives available other than the one you mentioned.
I do not think a steering column from a different vehicle will fit. Also as someone has pointed out to me in the past, the stock column is collapsable in the event of a front end collision. Flaming river seems to have some very nice columns and a new rack I never saw before: Flaming River But you are talking about dropping a grand or more, might be better off fixing the tilt, maybe it is a spring that went bad? Anyway, if you upgrade your steering wheel with an adaptor, you bypass the telescoping feature anyway..
Good luck!
I am not saying that it can't be done (using another model steering column in place of your 1980 T&T). But, the C2/C3 Corvette steering columns had welded mounting brackets that attached the column into the dash structure. Those welded brackets are unlike any other GM models so you would have to modify the dash structure and/or cut and weld the column bracket to even start installing the column.
That having been said, there is another issue in my mind. There are some very possible safety aspects concerning installing an "unknown" steering column into a C2/C3 vehicle structure. The designed energy absorption and collapse (telescoping) features of the original Saginaw steering column would be definately be compromised. The original steering column was engineered, vehicle tested and certified before the vehicle went into production.
The following are some more of my thoughts on the subject:
BTW, I think that your "looseness" complaint is caused by a common problem with the Saginaw T&T column. It is as simple as adding locktite and tightening four screws inside the steering column head. The bad news is there is quite a bit of disassembly that must be undertaken in order to get at the four screws.
I would be happy to supply a set of instructions on testing as well as Disassembly & Repair of the Saginaw T&T column. Just let me know through this thread and I can supply the addresses.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Aug 13, 2011 at 08:09 AM.
Getting at those 4 screws isn't THAT bad...it seems a lot worse than it really is, once your in there and committed. Two things to be very careful of, though...put a nut on the shaft when you go to pull the wheel, so as not to damage the threads that the star screw goes into, and also, be very very very careful with the plastic retainer clip....it REALLY likes to break. It's not expensive...but it could take over a week for it to arrive via mail. Annoying.
I have found that if your plastic retainer clip is original and over 30 years old you will find it virtually impossible to remove it without it breaking into several worthless pieces.
The retainer is still available through GM dealers 7808385 or through various Vette suppliers such as Zip Products #SC-517. Typically the suppliers have the retainer available considerably cheaper than GM dealers.
BTW, the retainer not only retains the c-clip but it serves as an insulator to prevent the big telescope spring from touching metal parts in the column head and causing the horn to blow. (The big spring should rest on the three brass pads that extend up through the locking plate with the retainer insulating the spring from the rest of the column parts.)
Jim
It is just my opinion, but I think the biggest issue in regards to steering column repair is the lack of good pictures. I think this scares people from tearing them apart.
The tools needed to do a column are not expensive either and the only special tools needed are a pin puller (that could be fabricated if needed) and the tool to collapse the top plate.
With those two tools and Jims instructions anyone can do the rebuild.
The four bolts you need to get to are all they way down in the bottom as shown here. Once you get to these and tighten them up all your wiggle issues should go away.
Thanks for all of the positive and helpful replies. The 4 bolts that have been mentioned have been previously, withing the last 90 days, removed, loctite applied and re-installed. I'm thinking that it has more to do with the tilt mechanism itself. I have full range of tilt but the steering wheel seems to pull down and to the left with minimum pressure. Would this be a problem with the lock pawls or the springs that go along with these? The column has all new bearings, key switch, turn signal switch and all of the parts for the horn.