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I just finished the suspension on my '79 and I have realized the rear of the car is higher than the front and I would like to lower it some. I have some room on the bolts to lower but I just had it aligned and I don't want to screw up the alignment. How much will lowering the rear affect my alignment?
Lowering the rear will ADD caster to the front, which will give you a little more self-centering as well as adding some effort to the steering. I'm not very good at trigonometry right now but there are reasonably simple formulae (yes, that's how you spell it!) for converting inches over a given span (the wheelbase) into degrees. Whatever degrees you remove from the car's 'rake' will be added to the caster, so dropping the rear an inch would add roughly a degree to whatever caster number you're at now.
Well, if your avatar is an indication of your ride, it doesn't look like you have much lowering to do before the tires rub the quarter panel opening lip.
Well, if your avatar is an indication of your ride, it doesn't look like you have much lowering to do before the tires rub the quarter panel opening lip.
Actually that picture was taken before I put the new spring in the rear. It actually sits a little higher than that now.
Did you also replace the front suspension???? Is the front also sitting higher than before? If not, lowering your rear back down would only put your specs back to what they where. (assuming the front suspension is still the same)
Either way, changing the rear ride height a little bit won't affect handling that much. If you changed front and rear suspension, your in need of an alignment anyway.
Did you also replace the front suspension???? Is the front also sitting higher than before? If not, lowering your rear back down would only put your specs back to what they where. (assuming the front suspension is still the same)
Either way, changing the rear ride height a little bit won't affect handling that much. If you changed front and rear suspension, your in need of an alignment anyway.
Yes, I did change the front suspension as well. The front sits lower now with the new springs and I'd like to get the rear a little lower. I had a shop do most of the front and then had it aligned so I didn't notice the difference until it was aligned. I just don't want to spend another $70 for an alignment just because I made a change for looks.
Yes, I did change the front suspension as well. The front sits lower now with the new springs and I'd like to get the rear a little lower. I had a shop do most of the front and then had it aligned so I didn't notice the difference until it was aligned. I just don't want to spend another $70 for an alignment just because I made a change for looks.
So the car was aligned after the front was rebuilt? Correct?
Setting the rear ride hight to the same hight as the old spring will put your specs back to the aligned setting then. No issue unless you moved shims on your trailing arms. If you leave the rear high, your alignment specs are now off.
Or was the car aligned after the rear spring install?
So the car was aligned after the front was rebuilt? Correct?
Setting the rear ride hight to the same hight as the old spring will put your specs back to the aligned setting then. No issue unless you moved shims on your trailing arms. If you leave the rear high, your alignment specs are now off.
Or was the car aligned after the rear spring install?
Car was aligned after front and rear were installed.
Car was aligned after front and rear were installed.
I'd adjust it where you want it and drive it.
If the handling feels weird, pay the extra $ and get it re-aligned.
If they recently set the car up, they probably would not charge near as much to adjust it.
If the handling feels weird, pay the extra $ and get it re-aligned.
If they recently set the car up, they probably would not charge near as much to adjust it.
That sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the help.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
FWIW, and just to make sure nobody mistook that parallel half-shafts (with the road) is a goal, due to C2/C3 rear toe-steer characteristics such an arrangement doesn't make for the best geomtry when the rear suspension travels into bump or squat.
TheSkunkWorks:
Looking at this dated publication http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ChevyPower.pdf on page 6-6 and 6-7 they have a diagram where they show the height difference between the inner and outer strut rod mounting points of 1 1/4". I have found this results in the half shafts being parallel to the ground. How does this publication tie in with your comment about rear toe-steer and parallel not being a goal, thanks.