Z06 brake upgrade installation
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From: Santo TX
Z06 brake upgrade installation
Our front Z06 brake conversion for C2 and C3’s has been out for a few years so we thought it would be valuable to document an installation so everyone knows how it’s done. Now that the rear kit is also available the complete system will be shown. Over the next few days we’ll post installments to give you a first hand look at the process.
To begin with the kit comes complete with all the parts needed. You will need common hand tools, a brake bleeding tool (or helper) and some DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Rotors are 13" with six-piston calipers in the front and four-piston calipers for the rear. Options on the kit include brake pads ranging from Hawk street ceramic, HPS and HP+ depending on your needs. You can also order the rotors plain, slotted or crossdrilled.
Starting at the front of the car we began by removing the calipers and hoses. Have a catch can ready for the brake fluid. Unthread the hardline.
More to come...
To begin with the kit comes complete with all the parts needed. You will need common hand tools, a brake bleeding tool (or helper) and some DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Rotors are 13" with six-piston calipers in the front and four-piston calipers for the rear. Options on the kit include brake pads ranging from Hawk street ceramic, HPS and HP+ depending on your needs. You can also order the rotors plain, slotted or crossdrilled.
Starting at the front of the car we began by removing the calipers and hoses. Have a catch can ready for the brake fluid. Unthread the hardline.
More to come...
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Santo TX
Remove the hose clip with some pliers.
The caliper is attached with two bolts. Once they are removed it pulls off the rotor with perhaps a little bit of prying due to the pads dragging.
Removing the rotor from the hub should be a simple matter of pulling them off…unless they are the factory installed rotors. In that case they will be riveted to the hub. You will need to drill out the rivets in order for the rotor to come free. You can use an 11/32” or 3/8” drill bit and just remove the head.
The caliper is attached with two bolts. Once they are removed it pulls off the rotor with perhaps a little bit of prying due to the pads dragging.
Removing the rotor from the hub should be a simple matter of pulling them off…unless they are the factory installed rotors. In that case they will be riveted to the hub. You will need to drill out the rivets in order for the rotor to come free. You can use an 11/32” or 3/8” drill bit and just remove the head.
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From: Santo TX
The hub must be removed so that the dust shield can come off.
Both the dust shield and the old caliper bracket are held in place with three bolts. Two at the steering arm…
And one at the top of the spindle.
Both the dust shield and the old caliper bracket are held in place with three bolts. Two at the steering arm…
And one at the top of the spindle.
Last edited by Speed Direct; Aug 15, 2011 at 12:56 PM.
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From: Santo TX
Now both can be removed.
The new caliper mounting bracket installs in the same location as the old one. The dust shield does not get re-installed. The bolts get torqued to 120 ft/lbs (1/2” bolt) and 180 ft/lbs (5/8” bolt).
Slide the rotor onto the hub once it has been re-installed on the spindle. Note the direction of the cooling vanes. This is the driver’s side rotor.
The holes in the rotor hat are over sized so place two spacers on opposite studs and temporarily install a lug nut to hold the rotor against the hub.
Wipe both sides of the rotor using a clean paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
The new caliper mounting bracket installs in the same location as the old one. The dust shield does not get re-installed. The bolts get torqued to 120 ft/lbs (1/2” bolt) and 180 ft/lbs (5/8” bolt).
Slide the rotor onto the hub once it has been re-installed on the spindle. Note the direction of the cooling vanes. This is the driver’s side rotor.
The holes in the rotor hat are over sized so place two spacers on opposite studs and temporarily install a lug nut to hold the rotor against the hub.
Wipe both sides of the rotor using a clean paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Last edited by Speed Direct; Aug 16, 2011 at 11:35 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Santo TX
Install the brake pads into the caliper.
The caliper installs with the bleeder screws pointing up.
Thread the 14mm bolts in and check that the caliper is centered over the rotor. If it is not then use the supplied shims and place them between the caliper and the mounting bracket.
Now torque the bolts to 120 ft/lbs.
The brake lines connect first with this adapter and crush washer,
then with the actual line. Carefully route the line to avoid contact with the frame or any suspension component. Connect with the provided adapter and the hardline on the frame. Re-insert clip into frame tab.
Repeat this on the other side. You don’t need to bleed the system until the rear brakes are installed.
The installment for the rear brakes will be added to this thread so scroll down to pick that up.
The caliper installs with the bleeder screws pointing up.
Thread the 14mm bolts in and check that the caliper is centered over the rotor. If it is not then use the supplied shims and place them between the caliper and the mounting bracket.
Now torque the bolts to 120 ft/lbs.
The brake lines connect first with this adapter and crush washer,
then with the actual line. Carefully route the line to avoid contact with the frame or any suspension component. Connect with the provided adapter and the hardline on the frame. Re-insert clip into frame tab.
Repeat this on the other side. You don’t need to bleed the system until the rear brakes are installed.
The installment for the rear brakes will be added to this thread so scroll down to pick that up.
Last edited by Speed Direct; Aug 17, 2011 at 11:01 AM.
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From: Crossville TN
Very nice. Of course, the part about using an open-end wrench to loosen the fitting on the brake [hard] line ain't gonna happen on any C3 that really needs new brakes. 
But, 'reality' is not the strong suit in an aftermarket product instructional write-ups. Heck, I'll give you good credit for even making an instructional write-up.
Most vendors just leave us on our own on figuring out how to disassemble & install their 'new' part. 
But, 'reality' is not the strong suit in an aftermarket product instructional write-ups. Heck, I'll give you good credit for even making an instructional write-up.
Most vendors just leave us on our own on figuring out how to disassemble & install their 'new' part.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: FL
Speeddirect,
Any possibility of just getting all the pics posted? Also, is it possible to get the instructions posted to your website so people can see how involved this is.
Thread Starter
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From: Santo TX
The e-brake uses the stock factory hardware.
We'll work on getting all the photos posted on our website. Also, we usually have the instructions posted as well. If we don't we'll get them shortly and a link will be posted in this thread.
As for using the open end wrench... I'm laughing. You are correct. Rarely does that work and in my experience, neither does a flare nut wrench. The instructions will get pretty long if we go to 100% realism such as "Try to remove the impossibly tight and rusted on fitting. Round off all the corners of the nut and smash your fingers and knuckles on the frame rail. Please don't swear loud enough that the neighbors can hear you. Cool your temper for an hour by watching some racing. Now go at it with the biggest set of vise grips you have..."
We'll work on getting all the photos posted on our website. Also, we usually have the instructions posted as well. If we don't we'll get them shortly and a link will be posted in this thread.
As for using the open end wrench... I'm laughing. You are correct. Rarely does that work and in my experience, neither does a flare nut wrench. The instructions will get pretty long if we go to 100% realism such as "Try to remove the impossibly tight and rusted on fitting. Round off all the corners of the nut and smash your fingers and knuckles on the frame rail. Please don't swear loud enough that the neighbors can hear you. Cool your temper for an hour by watching some racing. Now go at it with the biggest set of vise grips you have..."
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Santo TX
The installation instructions can be downloaded as PDFs from the links at the bottom of this page.
There will be more updates in this thread including documenting installation of the rear brakes. Stay tuned.
There will be more updates in this thread including documenting installation of the rear brakes. Stay tuned.
