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Need Battery Drain Help!

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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #1  
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Default Need Battery Drain Help!

Hey all,
I have a '73 that I'm working on... The car has been down for a couple of years due to a recent SBC to BBC and Auto to Manual Swap. I feel like I have had everything apart and dont know where to start. I've never had any issues with the battery draining. I had a buddy of mine help me out with some work on the car, and ever since I've had the car back I have had issues with the battery draining. The only things electrical that he touched, that I would know of is the wiring behind the dash (he helped put the dash back together), the horn relay (he relocated the horn relay) and the steering wheel (had to replace a ign cylinder).

Everything appears to be hooked fine on the horn relay, but I am having doubts with the wiring behind the dash and the steering column.. My biggest doubt right now is the dash. When I fired the car up for the first time after getting the car back, the wipers came up and froze. I've tried getting the wipers to move back in to the "park" position but I've had no luck. Also, when I went to rev the engine my ammeter pegged close to 40 amps and stuck there. I dont remember if the both things happened on the same incident.

What I do know is this..
- I've removed the fuse for the wipers and for the ctsy light (figured I would give it a shot).
- I have a brand new Optima battery
- If I leave the car sit for 10 hours the battery is dead.
- I tried to measure the draw on system and all I came up with 17.45 mA. The only thing I had hooked up when I tested it was the computer for the EFI (I have that hooked up on the top post - dual post battery).

Do you guys have any suggestions?? Where should I start?
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #2  
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Well, I ain't no electrical expert, but I'll take a shot. The only thing I can come up with is to disconnect the negative battery cable and put a test light between it and the battery terminal. if the test light lights up, that's your key off draw at work. Start pulling fuses until the test light goes out, that should at least help point you in the general area. That's all I got, good luck, dude.


Scott
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 11:56 PM
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You didn't put the 14g black wire at the starter on the pos post of the solenoid did you ?
The large round connector fits perfect on the solenoid but should go on a bolt going into the block.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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If the above doesn't help you - start dis-connecting electrical items one at a time. An amp meter (Volt Ohm Meter) would be helpful. Just put the VOM on "AMPs" - and connect between the wires (connections) you are disconnecting... Should read ZERO with the key off. If you are getting a reading - bingo...

VOMs are cheap at Harbor Freight - perhaps $5 - $6...

My .02
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Well, I ain't no electrical expert, but I'll take a shot. The only thing I can come up with is to disconnect the negative battery cable and put a test light between it and the battery terminal. if the test light lights up, that's your key off draw at work. Start pulling fuses until the test light goes out, that should at least help point you in the general area. That's all I got, good luck, dude.


Scott
Thanks for advice! I may have to do that..

Originally Posted by ...Roger...
You didn't put the 14g black wire at the starter on the pos post of the solenoid did you ?
The large round connector fits perfect on the solenoid but should go on a bolt going into the block.
Roger! I think you might be a genius! I might have done that. I will have to check! Would the starter still turn the engine tho?


Originally Posted by udornf4
If the above doesn't help you - start dis-connecting electrical items one at a time. An amp meter (Volt Ohm Meter) would be helpful. Just put the VOM on "AMPs" - and connect between the wires (connections) you are disconnecting... Should read ZERO with the key off. If you are getting a reading - bingo...

VOMs are cheap at Harbor Freight - perhaps $5 - $6...

My .02
I have a couple of them lying around.. to better understand what you're saying, should i hook the VOM between the negative post and the negative battery cable and start pulling fuses? I'm a little confused..
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by FRSTR90
Roger! I think you might be a genius! I might have done that. I will have to check! Would the starter still turn the engine tho?
Yes ,starter will work fine. The black wire is the ground for the wiper motor and AC blower. If it was for other items you would probably have a dead short to ground but the blower and wiper are mounted to fiberglass and the positive power is going through the motor windings of each,major draw but not a dead short.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:27 PM
  #7  
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From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Damn, Roger, you so smart, how come you ain't rich???

I think Roger reads your post, sneaks over to your house, diagnoses your 'vette, sneaks back home and posts it. It's the only way to explain how uncannily good he is.


Scott
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:43 PM
  #8  
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Thanks Scott,I had one of those beer all over the screen moments when I read your post.


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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 09:02 AM
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 02:09 PM
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Have you already solved your problem? If not, try this: check out if the override switch for the wipers is on (the switch above the feets). If it is, it will drain your battery.

Keep us informed!

Günther
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