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Ok, after 4 years of owning this car & no over-heating problems..... it's now happened to mine..... the same ole' Big Block over-heating syndrome ! :eek:
(B.B.O.H.S.)
So, without 'modifying' my car & keeping an 'orig.' style radiator - what are my options ??? - I'm planning on 'flushing' out the radiator & re-checking my thermostat (didn't use one the first 2-yrs. of ownership).
I also have no 'overflow' bottle..... and it has a fanclutch (recently replaced) ;)
A second question - is there such a thing as a radiator valve ? ....When the car over-heated this past weekend, I noticed a small 'leak' ? coming from the bottom of the radiator on the 'fill' side near wear the drain screw is.
I'm just wondering if there is a 'protection' valve of some sort to keep the lower radiator hose from blowing ? ...'cause after the car cooled off & I drove it home (after more water of course) - it didn't leak anymore ! :confused:
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (verskel)
Hey Paul,
Have you had the radiator recored...have any idea how old it is? May be pretty plugged up and take more than the flushing. Have you put any of the water wetter or comparable products in? Water pump in good shape?
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (ZORA_RULES)
I had overheating problems like crazy upto 250 F in Toronto outside temp. of 50F This did not make any sense since I owned these vettes when they were new and non of my vettes had overheating problems. Guess what I removed that crazy Comp Cam 292h and replaced it with a crane 272H and I also set my timming to factory specs. I also had the rad soaked and cleaned at a Rad shop, I also installed the insullationn around the Rad " used pipe insulation" I also installed my stock intake manifold and my stock cooling Fan with a 160 stat I am running at 160F both on the HWY and the City I will waite till the weather here get a bit warmer if the vette is still running at 160F I may have to install a 180F stat Buttom line check all the basic stuff 1st "timming, condition of Rad, rad cap, insullation around the rad, no leakes" and you should have no overheating problems.
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (73-454)
I was just about to post on this kind of topic. I have about 750 miles on my new big block. The radiator was completely recored, and I put in a brand new AC Delco 180 deg thermostat. I also replaced the hoses that looked suspicious. The timing is set at about 5 deg BTDC statically. The car doesn't ping, and it doesn't diesel at shutoff, but it's running at 230 deg. This weekend, I put in an Accel thermostat that flows better, installed a brand new heater core (never hooked up before), added a bottle of Water Wetter, and replaced the temp sender. It took longer to get there, but the car still ran at 230. When I look in the overflow, it appears the pump is ciculating plenty of coolant.
I have two theories; what do you think?
1. Even though I double checked the head gasket, I could have the wrong head gasket, and not enough coolant is getting to the heads.
2. I could be sucking air past the intake, causing the engine to run lean and hot. (The plugs are white, not tan.)
Hope no one is upset about me getting in the middle of this thread, but I hope the answers can help us both.
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (bb69)
bb69
Like I said check the basics 1st, It appears you have done all the right stuff. Is you temp gauge accurate. I also installed a new temp gauge under the hood just to insure my in dash temp gauge was ok. Do you have the by-pass hose installed " From manifold to water pump" I have heard if this hose is not installed it may cause all kinds of vapor locks and air traps in the cooling system. I have my BB at 160F with a 160 stat, I may have to go to a 180 stat. I have owned these vettes when they were new and I never had heat problems. As far as the water vetter, (just snake oil)
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (73-454)
One thing I see right away. You mentioned you have a leak. If the radiator can't pressurize, it will run hotter. You have to have that leak fixed.
Secondly, yes if you are running so lean that your plugs are white, that will make your engine run hot. In fact, after a hard drive at night, does your exhaust glow cherry red?
Thirdly, verify that your timing is correct. If too retarded, you will run hotter.
And I was going to suggest having a new core put in your radiator, or at least have the old one rodded out. Deposits can easily cut down on the radiator's efficiency.
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (MoMo)
MoMo,
I posted about this last week; it appears that some cars had overflows tanks, and some did not. It depends on engine size and if the car has AC or not. My BB without AC, does have one, and my buddies small block without AC does not have one. It is different depending on year as well.
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (bb69)
No prob. bb69 - you can jump in at any time ! :yesnod:
....my purpose for being on this forum is to share information & learn as much as possible about my vette.
The 'leak' was only visible at 250+ degrees ! ....after that, the leak never showed up again - but - my system is holding pressure and when I took off the new cap at the gas station, it nearly exploded ! :eek: ....ok, though as I had a rag and there was a 'safety' on the cap (1/2 turn it popped up violently but doesn't release until a FULL turn and 1/4) steam & water ejected but the rag kept me from getting burned ! :bb :bb :bb
Anyways- there's pressure alright ! ....maybe my t-stat is defective ?
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (verskel)
verskel,
Definitely check the t-stat. The first one I bought at Autozone was bad. The car was running very hot. I bought the new AC Delco, and put them both in a pan of water. I was absolutely amazed how much more the AC opened. The Accel HP T-stat I just bought, opened even more.
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (verskel)
verskel....hear me roar I am a novice.... :lol:
but just wondering....do you think the leak on the side
is a hairline crack ? that only leaks when when the metal is heated up enough to expand the crack in the metal to leak ?? just a thought....feel free to :smash: :smash: the thought down... :D good luck.
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (ylose)
Don't forget to install a new chin spoiler if it is missing or mangled and all of the seals around the rad, esp the one between hood and top of rad mount. All of these direct air into the rad instead of around it and will help it run cooler, especially with the stock 68/69 BB rad which was prone to running hot anyway. Mine ran hot (230+) until I replaced my chin spoiler which was all bent up and now never exceeds 200 even on the hottest 90+ F days down here in NC. You also need to put the overflow tank back in since I'm pretty sure all BBs had it - AC or not (anyone correct me if I'm wrong), and it offers additional coolant capacity which GM put there for a reason. Good luck! :cheers:
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (Marks69BB)
[QUOTE]Don't forget to install a new chin spoiler if it is missing or mangled and all of the seals around the rad, esp the one between hood and top of rad mount. QUOTE]
Chin spoiler ? - you mean the flimsy 2" strip that attaches to the lower valence ? (mine's missing)...
:eek:
Re: Keeping Big Blocks *cool* but original.... (verskel)
Chin spoiler ? - you mean the flimsy 2" strip that attaches to the lower valence ? (mine's missing)...
:eek:
Yes - Believe it or not, it makes a difference! I'm not saying it alone will solve all of your probs but it's cheap, it will definitely direct more air to the rad for the car to run cooler, and it's simple to install. With the slanted mounting of the rad and the limited grill area plus if you have to run a front license plate (not sure in TX?), that is why the General put it there in the first place.