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I'm in the process of rebuilding my front suspension. The next step is to remove the coil spring. I loosened the castle nut on the upper ball joint and am now trying to seperate the ball joint. The problem is the ball joint seperater (pickle fork) is not thick enough, it can fit between the joint and the steering knuckle without pusing them apart. Am I doing something wrong? What do I do now? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Aaron
First of all...use a safety chain for that coil spring. Did this about a month ago and it scared the heck out of me when the ball joint "let go". I used the pickle fork to gently pry the two apart while I rapped the spindle with a hard rubber mallet. I used a cheater pipe to "gently" pry them apart. Worked great!!! Be careful with that coil spring, it can kill you easily!!
A few things could be happening.
1. the fork is hitting the frame behind the pocket so you can hammer it in anymore.
2. Use a 5lb sledge..not a regular wood hammer.
3. The pickle fork tongs are too far apart. Go to autozone and rent their tie rod puller, only difference is the tongs are closer together so they fit the ball joint better. Worked great for me.
Use a coil compressor, or a jack under the arm or a chain just incase. you should be fine with the nut still attached but you never know.
1. the fork is hitting the frame behind the pocket so you can't hammer it in anymore.
Besides using the right tool (the ball joint separator and tie rod separator look alike but have different spacing between the pair of tines), I had to grind off about 1/4" from the end of one tine. It was, just as Kirby said, hitting the frame. I just ground the end off one tine, and left the point (wedge) on the other. When doing the ball joints on the other side of the car, just flip the fork over and you'll have the necessary clearance. There may be other ways of dealing with this, but that was the obvious way for me and it worked slick.
I made a spring compressor with a piece of 1/2" all-thread rod I got from Lowe's. You need the heat-treated rod that's dark gray, not the bright zinc stuff that's not strong enough. Put it through the shock tower with a big washer and double nuts, then through the spring and out the bottom of the control arm. Any piece of steel that will span the bottom of the spring cup, about 1/4" thick or so with a hole in it for the all-thread to go through, will handle the bottom end. Then a couple of big washers and double nuts again. Turning the nuts on either end will draw the rod up through the spring. Even if you don't need to compress the spring, the rod will still act as a safety.