Why DeWitts?
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 19
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Correct, I have read the theory behind it and that's why I would just paint the side tanks and the top to try and maintain some of the stock look of the 70 vette. (Anything is better than the existing painted copper rad I have for cooling though)
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
I think there is paint out there just to paint the whole radiator, maybe Eastwoods.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
Tom and I have been talking off and on for the past couple of weeks. And I think it should be noted that he is coming out with a larger core radiator that will cool about 20% better than anything else i am aware of out there. I believe this to be very important...jmho....just a fyi
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
Tom,
Are you able to supply a rad for 77 M/T with threaded bungs in place of the 1 1/2" hose barbs? I need the bungs to accept -20AN fittings (bottom threaded portion shown threads into rad):
Are you able to supply a rad for 77 M/T with threaded bungs in place of the 1 1/2" hose barbs? I need the bungs to accept -20AN fittings (bottom threaded portion shown threads into rad):
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Race Director
Joined: May 2003
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From: California
Racer
Joined: May 2009
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From: LA CA
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
I just noticed the Paint questions so I can answer that too. We see no reduction in heat transfer with a spray painted radiator as most of the paint goes onto the end tanks and the rails. The core section is the only part that actually removes heat and spray tends to go right through without coating anything. The only way you could ruin a radiator is if you were to dip paint the radiator. This would fill the fin and louvers with paint.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
Radiator Black 12 oz Satin Finish
Item #10340 Z
In Stock - Ready to Ship Today
Only $14.99
Buy 2 or more for $14.29 each and save 5%
Buy 3 or more for $13.49 each and save 11%
Radiator Black Satin Paint is the perfect viscosity to spray-paint your radiator without damaging it
Standard engine paints are too thick for use on a radiator because they can interfere with heat transfer, and block air flow between the cooling fins. But Radiator Black Satin is formulated specifically for your radiator, heater core and air conditioning condenser.
Won't block air flow between cooling fins
Won't interfere with heat transfer
Acrylic enamel
Withstands 300 degrees F
Qty: 1
$14.99
Item #10340 Z
In Stock - Ready to Ship Today
Only $14.99
Buy 2 or more for $14.29 each and save 5%
Buy 3 or more for $13.49 each and save 11%
Radiator Black Satin Paint is the perfect viscosity to spray-paint your radiator without damaging it
Standard engine paints are too thick for use on a radiator because they can interfere with heat transfer, and block air flow between the cooling fins. But Radiator Black Satin is formulated specifically for your radiator, heater core and air conditioning condenser.
Won't block air flow between cooling fins
Won't interfere with heat transfer
Acrylic enamel
Withstands 300 degrees F
Qty: 1
$14.99
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 98
From: Ontario
Yes we are going to post one in January. I don't want to start it now because we do not have anyone at work to build them and I want to be ready to go with people and parts.
I just noticed the Paint questions so I can answer that too. We see no reduction in heat transfer with a spray painted radiator as most of the paint goes onto the end tanks and the rails. The core section is the only part that actually removes heat and spray tends to go right through without coating anything. The only way you could ruin a radiator is if you were to dip paint the radiator. This would fill the fin and louvers with paint.
I just noticed the Paint questions so I can answer that too. We see no reduction in heat transfer with a spray painted radiator as most of the paint goes onto the end tanks and the rails. The core section is the only part that actually removes heat and spray tends to go right through without coating anything. The only way you could ruin a radiator is if you were to dip paint the radiator. This would fill the fin and louvers with paint.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
Sit it in front of a big fan and feel the air, then give it a good coat of the paint, let dry and sit in front of the fan again and tell me your pre over heating results.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 98
From: Ontario
On more serious matters, Tom I look forward to your offer in the New Year. I have a friend who may need a C3 rad.
Last edited by Paul L; Dec 19, 2011 at 07:50 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
Long johns make you warmer under pants and 200 degrees isn't that cool, mine won't reach 185 sitting in traffic.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 98
From: Ontario
I drove a 1979 for 17 years. The GM t-stat was 195*F and it ran generally around 200*F. The cat con is designed for those temps. At times it would go to 215*F or so at highway speeds. No problem. It had an auxiliary electrical fan that kicked in at 238*F, that was a GM design I believe for towing or track work. The red line was 260*F.
The boiling point of water is 212*F. The boiling point of a sealed/pressurized system with anti-freeze (50:50) and a 15psi rad cap is much higher. So what is the fascination with a bit of paint and 185*F temps? It's trivia. The old GM V8 can and works very well at much higher temps. And for some years was designed to do so.
Last edited by Paul L; Dec 19, 2011 at 08:19 PM.
Might pull the trigger for the Jan sale
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 103
From: Southern Indiana
This is so old it is ludicrous. And I don't know how many times this subject has to be thrashed out. But here goes.
I drove a 1979 for 17 years. The GM t-stat was 195*F and it ran generally around 200*F. The cat con is designed for those temps. At times it would go to 215*F or so at highway speeds. No problem. It had an auxiliary electrical fan that kicked in at 238*F, that was a GM design I believe for towing or track work. The red line was 260*F.
The boiling point of water is 212*F. The boiling point of a sealed/pressurized system with anti-freeze (50:50) and a 15psi rad cap is much higher. So what is the fascination with a bit of paint and 185*F temps? It's trivia. The old GM V8 can and works very well at much higher temps. And for some years was designed to do so.
I drove a 1979 for 17 years. The GM t-stat was 195*F and it ran generally around 200*F. The cat con is designed for those temps. At times it would go to 215*F or so at highway speeds. No problem. It had an auxiliary electrical fan that kicked in at 238*F, that was a GM design I believe for towing or track work. The red line was 260*F.
The boiling point of water is 212*F. The boiling point of a sealed/pressurized system with anti-freeze (50:50) and a 15psi rad cap is much higher. So what is the fascination with a bit of paint and 185*F temps? It's trivia. The old GM V8 can and works very well at much higher temps. And for some years was designed to do so.
Thick paint clogs the fins whether you believe it or not.
Im sorry you have painted yours and now wish you didn't do it so you try and talk yourself into thinking its alright, but Eastwood says thick paint will clog the fins so it will, they are as smart there as anyone here.