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Power brake bleeding tool... S.O.S !

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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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Default Power brake bleeding tool... S.O.S !

What is the best one ? Where can I get one "over the counter" ? How much are they ?


I got the day off tomorrow and I'm going in ! That is if I can get the right tool on the fly.

If I can't get good pedal on my own it's going to the pros......
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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What did you do to lose pedal? Did the master cylinder get replaced or bleed out?

Not sure where you get one over the counter. Might try a race shop. I got mine from motive products.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 08:44 PM
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Motive power bleeder.



You want the 0105, early american adapter:

http://www.google.com/search?q=motiv...w=1297&bih=728
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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i replaced the vacuum lines to the trans modulator and brake booster and now i get soft pedal and have to pump up for a good stop. it was acting a little funny prior so i think something failed. want to try the power bleed first tho. might at least get me to the shop ok.

can i get that unit at napa ?
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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Can you see leaks anywhere? Sounds like you'll need more than a bleed.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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50 miles away. http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Moti...ers-144-1.html
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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I got the Motive bleeder also but the plate soon broke. The nipple is real cheap and breaks off the plate. I have since made my own and it works better. It does not have a resevoir but it bleeds the brakes very well. Never had a system I could not get a hard pedal. I just replaced a complete system on a car and had it blead out in 15 minutes by myself. It is just a 1/4 plate of steel with a threaded air coupling in it. I have a rubber piece between the metal and the MC, the rubber piece from the Motive bleeder. I use a big C clamp to clamp it on and turn the compressor down to 20 psi. It puts thefluid through the system quickly. You do have to stop and refill but it takes me about a minute. My Motive bleeder sits o nthe shelf now.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Can you see leaks anywhere? Sounds like you'll need more than a bleed.
I agree. But for 75 I'd be a sissy not to try first....
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I got the Motive bleeder also but the plate soon broke. The nipple is real cheap and breaks off the plate.
I heard the new motives have a cheapo plastic plate.

I have one of their early models and the plate is steel with a brass fitting.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by zwede
I heard the new motives have a cheapo plastic plate.

I have one of their early models and the plate is steel with a brass fitting.
I must have gotten a later one. Mine was plastic with a plastic nipple and those cheap little chains that are worthless. I am using the rubber piece to seal it and the jug is still good but the rest is garbage.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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Branick power bleeder but it ain't cheap.All galvanized steel pot with a diaphragm to separate the fluid.Steel plate with brass fittings for the mastercylinder cover.Its overkill but it will out last me.I can't stand cheap made tools.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rugerm44
Branick power bleeder but it ain't cheap.All galvanized steel pot with a diaphragm to separate the fluid.Steel plate with brass fittings for the mastercylinder cover.Its overkill but it will out last me.I can't stand cheap made tools.
If you get one of these brake bombs, don't tell your friends, they'll all want to borrow it and forget to bring it back. Ask me how I know.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 08:07 AM
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Are you going to make that short drive to Doylestown to buy the Motive bleeder ?
2 hours round trip to get the bleeder and 15 min bleed time to solid brakes.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by zwede
Motive power bleeder.



You want the 0105, early american adapter:

http://www.google.com/search?q=motiv...w=1297&bih=728
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 08:36 AM
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Hope I catch the OP before he blows 80+ bux on some junk he don't need....

what you do is drill two ~1/8" holes in the stock steel top cover, one for each section.....put cover on with gasket in stock location....take your air jet and push over the hole to force the rubber down on top of the fluid do this with caliper open bleeding, rear first....one side, the other, keep fluid full, obviously......

keep going until you see no bubbles in the typical fashion....

job done....

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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 08:41 AM
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I also bought the Motive bleeder and it's not worth the price , it leaked like a sive, not worth it , better off looking for leaks and gravity bleed. Ron
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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how about the compressed air style ones they sell at napa ? i figure i may be doing this a lot !
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
Hope I catch the OP before he blows 80+ bux on some junk he don't need....

what you do is drill two ~1/8" holes in the stock steel top cover, one for each section.....put cover on with gasket in stock location....take your air jet and push over the hole to force the rubber down on top of the fluid do this with caliper open bleeding, rear first....one side, the other, keep fluid full, obviously......

keep going until you see no bubbles in the typical fashion....

job done....


do i get a donor master cyl cover for this ? what do i plug the hole with when done ?
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by boltnut
do i get a donor master cyl cover for this ? what do i plug the hole with when done ?
I haven't done this, and think it's a brilliant idea, but I don't think you'd need to plug them with anything except for appearances.

As long as the holes are burr-free, the expanding rubber boot inside the master-cylinder cover would never get cut, and that's what keeps the fluid contained in the reservoir anyway. A small hole would have no effect on the seal's or cover's operation.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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could you tap zerk fittings into the cover and do it that way ?
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