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i replaced the vacuum lines to the trans modulator and brake booster and now i get soft pedal and have to pump up for a good stop. it was acting a little funny prior so i think something failed. want to try the power bleed first tho. might at least get me to the shop ok.
I got the Motive bleeder also but the plate soon broke. The nipple is real cheap and breaks off the plate. I have since made my own and it works better. It does not have a resevoir but it bleeds the brakes very well. Never had a system I could not get a hard pedal. I just replaced a complete system on a car and had it blead out in 15 minutes by myself. It is just a 1/4 plate of steel with a threaded air coupling in it. I have a rubber piece between the metal and the MC, the rubber piece from the Motive bleeder. I use a big C clamp to clamp it on and turn the compressor down to 20 psi. It puts thefluid through the system quickly. You do have to stop and refill but it takes me about a minute. My Motive bleeder sits o nthe shelf now.
I heard the new motives have a cheapo plastic plate.
I have one of their early models and the plate is steel with a brass fitting.
I must have gotten a later one. Mine was plastic with a plastic nipple and those cheap little chains that are worthless. I am using the rubber piece to seal it and the jug is still good but the rest is garbage.
Branick power bleeder but it ain't cheap.All galvanized steel pot with a diaphragm to separate the fluid.Steel plate with brass fittings for the mastercylinder cover.Its overkill but it will out last me.I can't stand cheap made tools.
Branick power bleeder but it ain't cheap.All galvanized steel pot with a diaphragm to separate the fluid.Steel plate with brass fittings for the mastercylinder cover.Its overkill but it will out last me.I can't stand cheap made tools.
If you get one of these brake bombs, don't tell your friends, they'll all want to borrow it and forget to bring it back. Ask me how I know.
Are you going to make that short drive to Doylestown to buy the Motive bleeder ?
2 hours round trip to get the bleeder and 15 min bleed time to solid brakes.
Hope I catch the OP before he blows 80+ bux on some junk he don't need....
what you do is drill two ~1/8" holes in the stock steel top cover, one for each section.....put cover on with gasket in stock location....take your air jet and push over the hole to force the rubber down on top of the fluid do this with caliper open bleeding, rear first....one side, the other, keep fluid full, obviously......
keep going until you see no bubbles in the typical fashion....
I also bought the Motive bleeder and it's not worth the price , it leaked like a sive, not worth it , better off looking for leaks and gravity bleed. Ron
Hope I catch the OP before he blows 80+ bux on some junk he don't need....
what you do is drill two ~1/8" holes in the stock steel top cover, one for each section.....put cover on with gasket in stock location....take your air jet and push over the hole to force the rubber down on top of the fluid do this with caliper open bleeding, rear first....one side, the other, keep fluid full, obviously......
keep going until you see no bubbles in the typical fashion....
job done....
do i get a donor master cyl cover for this ? what do i plug the hole with when done ?
do i get a donor master cyl cover for this ? what do i plug the hole with when done ?
I haven't done this, and think it's a brilliant idea, but I don't think you'd need to plug them with anything except for appearances.
As long as the holes are burr-free, the expanding rubber boot inside the master-cylinder cover would never get cut, and that's what keeps the fluid contained in the reservoir anyway. A small hole would have no effect on the seal's or cover's operation.