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Changing transmission oil and filter

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Old 09-02-2011, 02:11 AM
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shelby82
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Default Changing transmission oil and filter

Any suggestions or tricks on how to change the transmission oil and filter in my 82 Corvette?
Old 09-02-2011, 04:30 AM
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SH-60B
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I use a large drain pan for that, it's actually a plastic mortar tub from the Home Depot. Messy job otherwise.
Old 09-02-2011, 07:51 AM
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Roco71
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
I use a large drain pan for that, it's actually a plastic mortar tub from the Home Depot. Messy job otherwise.
I use a large tub under the pan this is the order I do things to try to control the mess. Back out the back bolts not removing them all the way. Remove the linkage bracket bolts next then all the others. This will allow you to pour some of the fluid out the front of the pan before removing the back bolts all the way and dropping the pan.
Old 09-02-2011, 07:59 AM
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JimT
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After you remove the pan, fluid and replace the filter, throw the pan away and purchase a pan with a drain! Or, buy a drain plug and install it on your old pan. Next time it will be a breeze - and there will be a next time.
Old 09-02-2011, 09:14 AM
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daanbc
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NAPA sells the plugs for the pan for $ 4.99. Just drill a hole and install it. Just make sure you don't install it under one of the tranny pan bolts.(don't ask me how I know this).
Old 09-02-2011, 09:46 AM
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RedZR
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Default Changing transmission oil and filter Reply to Thread

I have one of these pumps:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2708072...Types&var=sbar

and its worth every cent when it comes to changing trans fluid. Its able to suck a large portion of the fliuid out and all that remains is mabe a cup full in the trans pan.

I have used it 3 times on my 78's TH350 and dropping the pan is mess free. I highly recommend it.

Dan
Old 09-02-2011, 09:49 PM
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lvmyvt76
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What about the filter, usually it needs changed or else it could plug up or restrict flow of fluid, IMHO>
Old 09-02-2011, 09:50 PM
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What about the filter, usually it needs changed or else it could plug up or restrict flow of fluid, IMHO> You change the filter when changing oil don't you?
Old 09-03-2011, 09:39 AM
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'75
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Of course.
Old 09-03-2011, 09:45 AM
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Vette5.5
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Sounds like the others have already got you covered, as I pull the side bolts, front, then rear while draining. The drain plug kit sounds like a good idea. As mentioned, you can buy a drain plug pan that's even better. Reason GM doesn't originally do this, is you'll sometimes get a guy changing his motor oil with his shiney new wrench set, draining the tranny and adding 5 more quarts of oil to an already full engine crankcase. Doesn't sound so good to me.
Old 09-03-2011, 09:57 AM
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sly vette
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I don't know the capacity of a auto. trans. but isn't there still a good bit of dirty fluid left in the torque converter when using the above mentioned techniques???
I can't remember the make of cars that had them but some I worked on, when I was turning a wrench in the '70's' had a small square head plug in the converter to drain it also.
Don't remember if G.M. used the plug or not.
Anyone else remember what I'm referring to?
Old 09-03-2011, 10:34 AM
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C3Dave
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Originally Posted by sly vette
I don't know the capacity of a auto. trans. but isn't there still a good bit of dirty fluid left in the torque converter when using the above mentioned techniques???
I can't remember the make of cars that had them but some I worked on, when I was turning a wrench in the '70's' had a small square head plug in the converter to drain it also.
Don't remember if G.M. used the plug or not.
Anyone else remember what I'm referring to?
I remember some of my old 4x4 mud trucks had the square head drain plug your referring to. I would drain the tc along with the tranny pan when I got water in the oil. I dont remember if it was the Fords or Chevys that had that.
Old 09-03-2011, 10:55 AM
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Yea, it's Ford on the square torque converter drain plugs, as had a few. Why other manufacturers don't include them, is beyond me. When having a TH350 tranny rebuilt, had them weld one onto the converter I really liked, as was sending it out for a new input hub and balance anyway.
Old 09-03-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
I don't know the capacity of a auto. trans. but isn't there still a good bit of dirty fluid left in the torque converter when using the above mentioned techniques???
I can't remember the make of cars that had them but some I worked on, when I was turning a wrench in the '70's' had a small square head plug in the converter to drain it also.
Don't remember if G.M. used the plug or not.
Anyone else remember what I'm referring to?
The Mopar Torqueflite 904 and 727 had a plug for the torque convertors so you could drain them. It's been a while but I think they were 7/16 or 3/8 hex.
Old 09-03-2011, 02:10 PM
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couperdecar
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Originally Posted by Vette5.5
Sounds like the others have already got you covered, as I pull the side bolts, front, then rear while draining. The drain plug kit sounds like a good idea. As mentioned, you can buy a drain plug pan that's even better. Reason GM doesn't originally do this, is you'll sometimes get a guy changing his motor oil with his shiney new wrench set, draining the tranny and adding 5 more quarts of oil to an already full engine crankcase. Doesn't sound so good to me.
That may be true , but I thought GM did it because the tranny fluid needs to be changed about the same time as the filter. Forces us to just take that extra step and drop the pan.
Old 09-25-2011, 10:57 PM
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rafalc
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Originally Posted by JimT
After you remove the pan, fluid and replace the filter, throw the pan away and purchase a pan with a drain! Or, buy a drain plug and install it on your old pan. Next time it will be a breeze - and there will be a next time.
Jim,

Have you used any vendor for the pan with a drain plug? Can you provide any links?

Thanks
Old 09-26-2011, 12:40 AM
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7T1vette
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Wear goggles and a rain coat when you drop the pan. Ah, for the want of a drain plug.

If you really want to limit the mess, buy a cheap, bulb-type syphon and suck out a lot of the tranny fluid from the fill tube...before you drop the pan. And, anyway you do it, add a drain plug when you go back together with it.

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Old 09-26-2011, 04:55 AM
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hunt4cleanair
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Originally Posted by sly vette
I don't know the capacity of a auto. trans. but isn't there still a good bit of dirty fluid left in the torque converter when using the above mentioned techniques?
Absolutely correct! According to 1978 tech specs, it takes 20 pints to fill when dry of Dexron II and 8 pints for refill.

I attended a tech session on C3 maintainence conducted by Chris Petris and his suggestion was to take it to one of those tranny shops that have the tranny machine that cycles fluid until it has replaced all of the fluid. Otherwise, you are only changing 1/3 of its capacity (the 8 pints).
Old 09-26-2011, 11:32 AM
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Yes, most of the tranny oil is not drained during oil/filter change. However, if the oil is not burnt (smell it) and there is no debris in the pan, there is really nothing wrong with keeping that remaining oil. The existing filter has been capturing any particulate that might be damaging to the tranny; the remaining stuff is just very fine '****' that does no harm and is mostly cetrifuged to the outside of the torque converter pump & turbine.

If the oil is in such bad condition that it should be flushed out, by all means, have it done. Otherwise, it is still servicible and you will just be wasting time and money to completely flush it.
Old 09-26-2011, 11:53 AM
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rafalc
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Similar procedure is recommended for new auto cars. Drain and fill 3 times. Do it the first time, then go for a drive, drain again and fill again the 2nd time, go for a drive, drain and fill for the 3rd time.


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