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I adjust the idle mixture screws to get maximum vacuum (5 in Hg). Then when I rev it up it release throttle it idles about 1100 rpm and won't come back down. I back off the throttle adjustment screw and lower the idle then it settles back down.
Here's engine details (close to old LS6 specs)
468 cu in
Holley 850 mechanical secondaries (recently rebuilt)
990 rect port heads
Ls6 dual plane aluminum intake
10.25 CR
MSD Dist vacuum advance disconnected
Initial timing 14-deg, total timing 35-deg
10 in Hg at 1100 rpm
5 in Hg at 700 rpm
Running 2.5 in power valves
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by roger3
Chasing the idle on 454 (not stock) engine.
I can't get a steady idle.
I adjust the idle mixture screws to get maximum vacuum (5 in Hg). Then when I rev it up it release throttle it idles about 1100 rpm and won't come back down. I back off the throttle adjustment screw and lower the idle then it settles back down.
Here's engine details (close to old LS6 specs)
468 cu in
Holley 850 mechanical secondaries (recently rebuilt)
990 rect port heads
Ls6 dual plane aluminum intake
10.25 CR MSD Dist vacuum advance disconnected
Initial timing 14-deg, total timing 35-deg
10 in Hg at 1100 rpm
5 in Hg at 700 rpm
Running 2.5 in power valves
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by roger3
69427
Not sure what your responses means.
Driveshaft,
I'll give it a try may bump it up to 16 or 18 deg.
Thanks
I'm trying to figure out why you're running without vacuum advance. Your timing is terribly retarded without it (I agree with Driveshaft), and your vacuum levels are much lower than they need to be. There just seems to be several items in your tune that need to be changed.
With idle vacuum levels as low as they are, trying to run manifold vacuum to the vac advance can would be a nightmare.
The only way to use it would be to run ported vacuum, which wont affect idle anyway (unless the throttle is adjusted too far open).
Just hooked up vacuum advance and tried it. Engine was idling at 1100rpm and 34-deg. When I back off throttle screw about 1/4 turn Roma drop so low engine sputters and wants to die. Inhave to keep working throttle to keep it running. I made a dew small adjustments to idle mixture screws but they didn't make much difference.
It's interesting that either way (with or without vacuum advance hooked up) the throttle position screw has a make or break position. 1/4 turn gives me a high idle of about 1100rpms or drops down to about 700rpm, no in between. I don't understand.
I think you nailed it. I just taped the mechanical advance weights in my dist to stop timing advance. Was able to adjust throttle screw and get 850 rpm, 900 rpm, etc. I am going to get stiffer springs for the distributor so it doesn't advance until about 1100rpm. I hope I can find spring kit here in Baton Rouge tomorrow.
It's supposed to rain for the next 6 or 7 days so I'll have to wait for an actual road test.
I think you nailed it. I just taped the mechanical advance weights in my dist to stop timing advance. Was able to adjust throttle screw and get 850 rpm, 900 rpm, etc. I am going to get stiffer springs for the distributor so it doesn't advance until about 1100rpm. I hope I can find spring kit here in Baton Rouge tomorrow.
It's supposed to rain for the next 6 or 7 days so I'll have to wait for an actual road test.
Thanks again!
Thanks everyone!
Roger
All right, sounds like you may be on to something. Just out of curiosity, what kind of vacuum do you get while cruising?
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Originally Posted by roger3
Neal,
I think you nailed it. I just taped the mechanical advance weights in my dist to stop timing advance. Was able to adjust throttle screw and get 850 rpm, 900 rpm, etc. I am going to get stiffer springs for the distributor so it doesn't advance until about 1100rpm. I hope I can find spring kit here in Baton Rouge tomorrow.
It's supposed to rain for the next 6 or 7 days so I'll have to wait for an actual road test.
Thanks again!
Thanks everyone!
Roger
Yep the rain is coming down here to,
Let us know if you get it resolved with the springs
if you are only getting 5" vacuum at an idle, your power valve is opening at idle speed and running too rich
you ned a lower operating pv or none at all and re jet the primaries
I adjust the idle mixture screws to get maximum vacuum (5 in Hg). Then when I rev it up it release throttle it idles about 1100 rpm and won't come back down. I back off the throttle adjustment screw and lower the idle then it settles back down.
Here's engine details (close to old LS6 specs)
468 cu in
Holley 850 mechanical secondaries (recently rebuilt)
990 rect port heads
Ls6 dual plane aluminum intake
10.25 CR
MSD Dist vacuum advance disconnected
Initial timing 14-deg, total timing 35-deg
10 in Hg at 1100 rpm
5 in Hg at 700 rpm
Running 2.5 in power valves
Thanks
Are you really running 2.5" power valves? Ya know, the power valve supplies fuel to the main circuit, if your car is idling on the idle circuit, the power valve can be as open as it wants to be, it won't affect your air/fuel ratio. You should rig up a vacuum gauge thru the firewall so you can see what vacuum is while cruising, then you can decide what powervalve to use based on that.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Originally Posted by scottyp99
Are you really running 2.5" power valves? Ya know, the power valve supplies fuel to the main circuit, if your car is idling on the idle circuit, the power valve can be as open as it wants to be, it won't affect your air/fuel ratio. You should rig up a vacuum gauge thru the firewall so you can see what vacuum is while cruising, then you can decide what powervalve to use based on that.
I wasn't sure if the power valve affected the idle or not. I know that the power valves open when the vacuum drops below the power valve vacuum rating. I had 6.5's in the carb last week, and since at idle I have about 5 in hg, I thought they might be opening and causing/contributing to my up and down idle.
With the 6.5 power valves I had to back the idle mixture screws out about 5 turns to get a decent idle quality and not smell loads of unburnt gas coming from the tail pipes.
With the 2.5 power valves the idle mixture screws are backed out maybe 3 turns. Does that make sense.
I am working on vacuum issues today (headlight actuators and ac/heater) and found that my AC vacuum selector switch is leaking. I just ordered a new one. So with these 2 items fixed maybe I will pickup a little more vacuum from the intake.
Soon as I get the new parts installed I will take it for a spin with a pressure gage so I can see the manifold vacuum while driving.