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For the record,I was kidding about my timing light being broken.
If your your timing for performance you have to use the ping test either before or after using the timing light.
Most daily driven C3s I've worked on won't take 36 degrees.
(If you set up 36 all in by 2500,chances are you'll hear the dreaded ping under load BUT if you don't pay attention to your mechanical advance and your 36 isn't all in until say 3500,you run the risk of not hearing the ping. )
For the record, I've got a little more money now than I did in 1968...therefore own a nice Equus digital advance timing light with a tach. My exhaust is so loud and my hearing so bad, I couldn't hear the death rattle if I tried.
For the record, I've got a little more money now than I did in 1968...therefore own a nice Equus digital advance timing light with a tach. My exhaust is so loud and my hearing so bad, I couldn't hear the death rattle if I tried.
Like stupid chicks that wear a pair of shoes out on the town and then return them. It drives up the the price for all the rest of us.
Uhm, tool loaner programs are openly endorsed by both Autozone and Advanced. There is nothing shady or underhanded about it. I have used it many times. They have 1 set of loaners. You "buy" what you need and are issued a full refund upon its return. If you don't return it, well then you just bought the tool.
Uhm, tool loaner programs are openly endorsed by both Autozone and Advanced. There is nothing shady or underhanded about it. I have used it many times. They have 1 set of loaners. You "buy" what you need and are issued a full refund upon its return. If you don't return it, well then you just bought the tool.
I think what some are missing is , your actually buying the loaner tool most of the time,so when you return it your not returning a new tool for someone else to buy off the shelf. If you fail to return the used loaner tool its no big deal to Autozone. I think its great for someone that will only use the tool on occasion.
Set the balancer where you want, {your desired initial lead}....... then using a test light or buzzer rotate the distributor untl the contact brakes and tighten the hold down.......if you know what was built in your distributor add that and the initial lead you now have the desired total.........
I think what some are missing is , your actually buying the loaner tool most of the time,so when you return it your not returning a new tool for someone else to buy off the shelf. If you fail to return the used loaner tool its no big deal to Autozone. I think its great for someone that will only use the tool on occasion.
Exactly, they're not taking new chit off the shelves each time someone checks out a loaner.
They just want to get you in the store. Because if you go there for the loaner tools chances are you'll pick up some other stuff there as well. It's win-win!
Hey, I am eternally curious. Coil on top of dizzy is a square. Is it logical that if the square side in front is perpendicular to the line of the car, i.e., terminal 1 and 8 are on the line perpendicular to the car, is the dizzy set at 0*? Could then use a protractor or something to set timing at, say, 6*. OK, give it to me!
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Larry82
Hey, I am eternally curious. Coil on top of dizzy is a square. Is it logical that if the square side in front is perpendicular to the line of the car, i.e., terminal 1 and 8 are on the line perpendicular to the car, is the dizzy set at 0*? Could then use a protractor or something to set timing at, say, 6*. OK, give it to me!
even less simple then that.....the rotor travels in a circle just do the math to figure out the turning of the rotor in between spark towers as it relates to the turning of the crankshaft and mark that little space inbetween the spark towers for every degree....and point the rotor at your little mark. or just buy a timing light
even less simple then that.....the rotor travels in a circle just do the math to figure out the turning of the rotor in between spark towers as it relates to the turning of the crankshaft and mark that little space inbetween the spark towers for every degree....and point the rotor at your little mark. or just buy a timing light
Actually, it is that simple. Print out a protractor template from internet. Mark 6* to the clockwise side of 0*. Mark the 6* on the dizzy top and have that point straight ahead. Done.
Last edited by Wrecked82; Sep 27, 2011 at 04:18 PM.
Set the balancer where you want, {your desired initial lead}....... then using a test light or buzzer rotate the distributor untl the contact brakes and tighten the hold down.......if you know what was built in your distributor add that and the initial lead you now have the desired total.........
add a little nitro and your in business.......
You and Mike Ward, how do you hook up a test light to an HEI? I think the OP has an '82. Across points I can see, but an HEI?
You and Mike Ward, how do you hook up a test light to an HEI? I think the OP has an '82. Across points I can see, but an HEI?
Yeah, I am OP and, hopefully, from my id it was clear it is an 82 with HEI. Even said that earlier. Specifically, questioned the vacuum port. Since there are 3 on each tbi, some of which not used or for egr, and those used are for balancing the tbi's, all the discussion on vacuum, etc. in irrelevant. My simple solution, which is what circle trackers and others use, is the easiest. People want me to buy a timing light. Why? My approach will be as close as a timing light and a degree difference is of no effect overall. I can mark in the dizzy top with a notch and some white liner paint or a dot 0*, 6* (standard timing) and, say 9* (alot like 9 for crossfire).