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Are there any ways to set timing, at least within a range, without a timing light - like using tachometer, listening to smoothness of engine, winaldl, etc. Think the answer in no, but just checking.
Sure- wire a 12V light bulb across the points so that it goes out when the points open. Set the damper at the desired setting (ie 'X' degrees BTDC) then rotate the dist. back and forth till you narrow down the center of the on/off point for the bulb and hold it there as you tighten the hold down bolt.
If you have a vacuum gauge, you can set idle for maximum vacuum. That may not set it for 'performance', but the engine will run fine with that setting.
Make sure you're on compression stroke of #1 cyl. and not #6. Take the #1 HT lead and attach it to a spare plug that's touching a good ground. Move the distributor back and forth and the plug will fire.
You use a tach and a vacuum gauge and set the timing to the highest on both at idle.
If you set for highest vacuum at idle, isn't there a risk of being too far advanced? You may have to back off if the car pings under load? Curious, I'm looking into what appears to be a lower than expected vacuum level on the 70 LS5. I don't have a timing light.
That's how I always do it , my timing light has been broken for years.
Back in the 60s, none of us with muscle cars had a timing light. We always did it this way, especially when we could afford some of that Clark Super 100 before the Saturday night drags on the frontage road.
My AutoZone didn't let me borrow one. They recommended to buy it and return it for a full refund. That would be an easy way to set it using a timing light and it not take forever like the other methods.
I'm with Roger et al. Listen to it, then drive it. Drive it hard. Readjust as necessary. You'd be surprised how accurate this ends up. Also must second Hamad. Good dial-back lights aren't that pricey, and you'll have it around forever. I think Advance's loaner policy has always worked as you described. I "borrowed" a set of suspension pullers a while back. Paid a $100 "deposit" (the cost of the set), got all my $$, including sales tax back upon return. No questions asked, hardest part of it was saving the reciept, and for real, how hard is that?
Like stupid chicks that wear a pair of shoes out on the town and then return them. It drives up the the price for all the rest of us.
Yes you can install a new dizzy and have it close enough to fire up first time you hit the key.
The smoothest idle and highest vacuum will be too far total advanced. But a few runs down the road you could back it of to where you get best overall and be close
If you use a vacuum gauge, you should advance to highest vacuum reading, then back the timing off until the vac drops down about 1" of hg.
That will get you close enough to do your 30 minutes cam break in or drive home from your impromptu roadside repair until you get a timing light on it. You will find you are fairly close to spec, up to maybe advanced several degrees from spec.
You can always advance the timing a little bit at a time untill it pings going up a steep hill, then back it off a little.
Scott
Yup....and I don't have any steep hills verey close....I do it at WOT or close to it on a SAFE road...or freeway on-ramp.
If it's hard to crank over later...retard it a little.
Like stupid chicks that ware a pair of shoes out on the town and then return them. It drives up the the price for all the rest of us.
Yes you can install a new dizzy and have it close enough to fire up first time you hit the key.
The smoothest idle and highest vacuum will be too far total advanced. But a few runs down the road you could back it of to where you get best overall and be close
I resent that...I am NOT cheap.....lol !
P.S. - it's "wear".....not "ware". And I'm the stupid bastard....