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rear wheels freezing

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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 06:31 PM
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Default rear wheels freezing

Im having a problem with the rear wheels of my '76 freezing up after about 10 mins of driving at 40mph. After a few mins of driving I have to let the car sit for about an hour before being able to drive it again. I have the e-brake as loose as it goes, but the rear wheels still bind. Does anyone know the cause of this? Are the rotors bad?
Thanks!
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Has the master cylinder been replaced recently? While the brakes are locked, loosen the nuts that hold the master to the booster and see if the brakes release. If not the problem may be the rear brake hoses colapsed internally.
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 06:49 PM
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I haven't changed the master cylinder. I did change all of the front lines and hoses as well as the rear hoses, but not the rear lines. I suppose I should replace those also, but I know brake fluid was reaching the rear and I didnt see any leaks.
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Has the master cylinder been replaced recently? While the brakes are locked, loosen the nuts that hold the master to the booster and see if the brakes release. If not the problem may be the rear brake hoses colapsed internally.
If it's both rear wheels, its almost certainly the M/C.
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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Just a long shot but you say the Parking Brake is backed off as much as poss. I am assuming you are referring to the cable and if so you may also have to back off the star wheel adjusters at each wheel also.
Good Luck!
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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The cable and star wheel adjusters are both back off. I'll replace the master cylinder next weekend. Hopefully it'll fix the problem.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 10:24 AM
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So I ended up replacing both rear rotors and the MC I drove the car for about 15 mins and the wheels started binding again. The passenger side is definitely worst as there was smoke coming out from underneath the rear on that side.

Do you think it could be the proportioning valve, or is it something more serious?
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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Replacing your rotors was a waste of time and money. Next time the car does this, loosen the two nuts that hold the M/C to the booster. If the brakes release, you've still got M/C problems.

How old are the rubber flex lines on the calipers?
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Hate to offer up bad news, its possible one of the rear bearings are seizing or a universal joint binding. I swore MY brakes were locked up, I pulled the axles and they free spin. my car didnt shimmy or shake, Just unbolt one side if brakes dont help you see if it moves around freely.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:33 PM
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All the rubber lines are new. The rotors were the originals and I thought the e-brake pads were getting caught up on the inside since they were so old.

I wasn't originally thinking it was a universal joint since the smoke was coming from the wheel. After the drive, I took the rear wheels off and the rotors seemed especially hot.

Maybe I'll try playing around with the MC again.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean_88
So I ended up replacing both rear rotors and the MC ...
There has been previous discussion about 3 different kinds of MC available. 2 of the 3 give problems. Try searching this forum for the appropriate threads.
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