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Intake Manifold Gasket Question

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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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Default Intake Manifold Gasket Question

I'm installing an Edelbrock Performer intake on stock heads for my '75 L48. The gasket came with 2 thin metal plates that fit over the center ventilation(?) holes. Do I need to include these when I install the intake?
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:05 PM
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Do you have the heat riser on the exhaust manifold? If you are running headers plug the holes. The holes are to allow heat from the exhaust to pass through the intake and warm the carburetor for cold weather starts.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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Some gaskets block the entire heat riser passage for performance which is what I do in Texas.
Some gaskets have a metal piece w/ a hole in it. If you are driving a lot in winter it helps warm up when cold.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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the heat riser is an emissions thing. the cooler you keep the intake the denser the charge of air fuel mixture is. the more air fuel you get into the cylinder the more power you make. The difference between street legal and not street legal heads is the street legal heads have the port that alows exhaust gas to flow under the carb and across the intake manifold via the heat riser heating the air fuel to cut down the amount of emissions the car puts out. I either plug them or run an intake manifold & heads that don't have them
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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I don't have headers and live in Houston. Should I get new gaskets or use these with the metal pieces? How is performance impacted?
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by crazyeight
I don't have headers and live in Houston. Should I get new gaskets or use these with the metal pieces? How is performance impacted?
Use the gaskets, there will be no noticable performance difference.

God bless, Sensei
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 06:49 PM
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The heat riser is a "warm up the carb" thing. That design feature has been used at least since the 1930's to help warm the fuel in the carb so that it vaporizes more easily. On engines with a 'divorced' choke, that passage is used to heat the choke coil, as well.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 11:46 AM
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Ok, almost done. Two last questions (hopefully):

The distributor won't all the way down. I marked it. It has maybe 1/4" to go before it's all the way down. Suggestions?

Also, how long should I wait before I start the car from when the intake was tightened down?
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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If the distributor isn't seating fully, its not engaging the oil pump shaft. you will need to use a long flat blade screwdriver down in the dist. hole in the intake and move the slot in the shaft to align with the bottom of the dist. shaft. It may take a few tries, but its easy to do. Once it lines up, it will drop right in.

If you have the manifold torqued down, you shouldn't have to wait long to start the motor. By the time you get the dist. installed you should be fine.

Last edited by Drawmain; Oct 9, 2011 at 12:20 PM. Reason: added stuff
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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I agree it's likely the distributor tang not aligning with the intermediate shaft...but there's an easier way to drop it.

Just set the engine to about 8-12 BTDC on compression #1, drop the distributor in so the rotor is about 1/4" behind the #1 tower and "bump" the engine until it drops. Recheck timing, and off you go.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
I agree it's likely the distributor tang not aligning with the intermediate shaft...but there's an easier way to drop it.

Just set the engine to about 8-12 BTDC on compression #1, drop the distributor in so the rotor is about 1/4" behind the #1 tower and "bump" the engine until it drops. Recheck timing, and off you go.
I have even cranked the engine "by hand" and done this.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:45 AM
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I got the distributor and timiing squared away (had to find compression stroke and redo plug wires).

New problem: One of the metal plates covering the heat riser passage has cone loose (I'm hearing tinning metal clanging intermittently, even at idle). With this little piece of metal cause me problems flying around loose? Should I not drive the car at all until I retrieve it? Will I be able to retrieve it? Felling pretty stupid right now.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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Yes, you need to stop driving and find that beast - it's in the cam valley, and it's banging around on the valvetrain...
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by billla
Yes, you need to stop driving and find that beast - it's in the cam valley, and it's banging around on the valvetrain...
So I get to it through the oil pan?
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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If you installed them properly, there is no way for them to come loose. They are 'trapped' by the intake manifold gaskets. If you installed them on the wrong side of the gasket, they would go into the exhaust manifold and no harm could be done...except for the rattling, and that will go away shortly when that little piece of aluminum will ball up and get blown out the exhaust system.

If it fell off the gasket as you were installing the intake manifold, it will drop into the valley below and probably just lay there. The worst thing it could do is to partially block off an oil return passage...but I think that is unlikely.

It's your call, but you aren't going to suffer a catastrophic engine failure because of that 'problem'.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by crazyeight
So I get to it through the oil pan?
No, you'll have to remove the intake

If it's in the valley, it's a pretty active place If it gets bollixed up in the cam or makes it's way into an oil passage you'll be doing a lot more more than an intake R&R. I can't see how it could end up in the crossover passages.

Tough call - but that's what I'd do.

Last edited by billla; Oct 11, 2011 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Thanks for all the input. Thinking back thru my install steps, I'm almost sure I installed one backwards. I think I'll buy the gaskets that cover the ports and replace.
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