What suspension should I go with?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
What suspension should I go with?
I have a 1970 350, 4 speed coupe with what I believe to be the original suspension (or just a suspension in pretty bad shape). I was originally thinking of going coil overs but after some advice.....since this is a # match car I think I don't want to mod it too much, keep as close to original set up but at the same time improve performance.
I've read through a few suspension threads, very informative but what I'm looking for here is your opinions and personal experiences. What suspension choices do I have and what do you think will work best for street (non-track) use and still do not affect the originality of the car too much?
Links/pics are always helpful.
Thanks!
I've read through a few suspension threads, very informative but what I'm looking for here is your opinions and personal experiences. What suspension choices do I have and what do you think will work best for street (non-track) use and still do not affect the originality of the car too much?
Links/pics are always helpful.
Thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Middleburg Florida
Just like anything else, it's a matter of what you want to do with the car and how much money you want to spend. If you want to have this as a daily driver or an occasional driver, I'd consider rebuilding the suspension with basically stock replacement parts. I'd use the good MOOG parts (doing your research as they now have different lines) that are made in the US, and I'd add Bilstein gas shocks. If you don't have a composit rear spring, that would also be a consideration as would a rear sway bar. As for coil overs, they're a nice option and add some convienience, but as for perfromance in a daily driver, IMHO your time and money may be better spent elsewhere.
If you want to auto cross or race the car, that's a different story, and a different price option too. There are six link kits out there, shark bite kits and tons of other options. Like I said at the begining, it's a matter of what you want and how much money you want to spend...
There are a ton of options for where to purchase these parts from too. I've had very good service and parts from Van Steel, and they'd also be a good source for advice.
If you want to auto cross or race the car, that's a different story, and a different price option too. There are six link kits out there, shark bite kits and tons of other options. Like I said at the begining, it's a matter of what you want and how much money you want to spend...
There are a ton of options for where to purchase these parts from too. I've had very good service and parts from Van Steel, and they'd also be a good source for advice.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
If you want to keep it original...then do so. Use the f47, or whatever it was, suspension option, with go shocks. That'll handle as good as you need on the street. Keep the stock wheels and tires in the garage, and buy yourself a larger set of wheels, 17 x 9, or so, for better rubber. Run those on the regular, car will feel like it's on rails compared to those old narrow wheels and highwalls. Then, when originality counts, all you gotta do is swap wheels. 20 minutes, tops.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 9
When the factory set up the car, they compromised between the possibilities of good ride and good handling. You can spend a lot of money and make it different. Only you can say if you are making it better.
Here in New Jersey, I spend most of my driving time dodging potholes. The roads here are junk. If you live where the roads are smooth and well maintained, you may feel differently.
After buying several sets apiece of front springs, rear springs, shocks and stabilizer bars, I returned the suspension (on my 74) to mostly stock. I am using an 1 1/8" stabilizer bar in the front, and a 9/16" bar in the rear. The front springs are stock (280 lb rate), and the rear is the softest fiberglass (300 lb) I could find. I am using Delco gas cushioned performer shocks. I just put the Guldstrand blocks between the front steering arms and the tie rod ends. It is a sweet driving car. I put 600 miles on it in the last month (trips into NY and PA) and hate to arrive home each time.
You pays yer money and you makes yer choice.
Here in New Jersey, I spend most of my driving time dodging potholes. The roads here are junk. If you live where the roads are smooth and well maintained, you may feel differently.
After buying several sets apiece of front springs, rear springs, shocks and stabilizer bars, I returned the suspension (on my 74) to mostly stock. I am using an 1 1/8" stabilizer bar in the front, and a 9/16" bar in the rear. The front springs are stock (280 lb rate), and the rear is the softest fiberglass (300 lb) I could find. I am using Delco gas cushioned performer shocks. I just put the Guldstrand blocks between the front steering arms and the tie rod ends. It is a sweet driving car. I put 600 miles on it in the last month (trips into NY and PA) and hate to arrive home each time.
You pays yer money and you makes yer choice.
Last edited by gcusmano74; Sep 26, 2011 at 09:58 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Later models have a high perf. suspension that the factory thought was too stiff for early models w/ solid body mounts on the street. In general if a rear bar is added, the front should be increased so the later bars could be added. There are other spring rate options.
For reference the high perf. FE-7 sus. has 1 1/8 front & 7/16 rear bars, 550 ft. springs & 7 leaf about 300 rear spring. This is actually a very good setup. A good standard of handling is the Road & Track slalom course. 77 set a new record in 77 with 63.6 mph. "hampered by stock air pressures". Surprisingly, R & T did not try or publish performance with increased air pressure. They were aware stock air pressures were meant to keep the less astute out of the weeds. 77 Record later matched by a Ferrari 512BB.
For reference, Mario Andretti turned 63.4 in a 1999 Corvette.
For reference the high perf. FE-7 sus. has 1 1/8 front & 7/16 rear bars, 550 ft. springs & 7 leaf about 300 rear spring. This is actually a very good setup. A good standard of handling is the Road & Track slalom course. 77 set a new record in 77 with 63.6 mph. "hampered by stock air pressures". Surprisingly, R & T did not try or publish performance with increased air pressure. They were aware stock air pressures were meant to keep the less astute out of the weeds. 77 Record later matched by a Ferrari 512BB.
For reference, Mario Andretti turned 63.4 in a 1999 Corvette.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
If your suspension has been neglected, a proper service alone might yield surprising results. Don't overlook the idler arm and steering box lash, and demand a precision alignment to your specs (reference VBP's recommendations). Should that not satisfy, then would be the time to consider different shocks, springs, bars, bushing material, altering geometry... That said, I'd suggest keeping to simple mods if cruising is a higher priority than is hardcore performance. My $.02
TSW
TSW
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
When the factory set up the car, they compromised between the possibilities of good ride and good handling. You can spend a lot of money and make it different. Only you can say if you are making it better.
Here in New Jersey, I spend most of my driving time dodging potholes. The roads here are junk. If you live where the roads are smooth and well maintained, you may feel differently.
After buying several sets apiece of front springs, rear springs, shocks and stabilizer bars, I returned the suspension (on my 74) to mostly stock. I am using an 1 1/8" stabilizer bar in the front, and a 9/16" bar in the rear. The front springs are stock (280 lb rate), and the rear is the softest fiberglass (300 lb) I could find. I am using Delco gas cushioned performer shocks. I just put the Guldstrand blocks between the front steering arms and the tie rod ends. It is a sweet driving car. I put 600 miles on it in the last month (trips into NY and PA) and hate to arrive home each time.
You pays yer money and you makes yer choice.
Here in New Jersey, I spend most of my driving time dodging potholes. The roads here are junk. If you live where the roads are smooth and well maintained, you may feel differently.
After buying several sets apiece of front springs, rear springs, shocks and stabilizer bars, I returned the suspension (on my 74) to mostly stock. I am using an 1 1/8" stabilizer bar in the front, and a 9/16" bar in the rear. The front springs are stock (280 lb rate), and the rear is the softest fiberglass (300 lb) I could find. I am using Delco gas cushioned performer shocks. I just put the Guldstrand blocks between the front steering arms and the tie rod ends. It is a sweet driving car. I put 600 miles on it in the last month (trips into NY and PA) and hate to arrive home each time.
You pays yer money and you makes yer choice.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
No typo. The 550's are probably the most popular C3 street performance front coil, and typically lower front ride height ~1". A few of us run 700's or 860's, but I wouldn't suggest taking things that far unless all-out cornering is your goal. Even then, I'd advise a set of 550's until you're sure you want/need more.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Sep 26, 2011 at 11:13 PM.
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