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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #1  
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Default BB 454 Rebuild

Hey guys and gals! I am planning to rebuild my 73 454 and was looking for any suggestions, tips etc. to make this project go as smooth as possible and hopefully add a lil HP... Any help is greatly appericated since this will be my first rebuild! Some things Im wondering about:

1. The oil pump is going out, should I replace it with a high volume pump?

2.It has an electric fuel pump now, should I go back to the mech pump?

3.The Starter has a hard time turning over after it gets hot, Is there a starter out there that can handle the heat from the headers?

4.It has a Procomp 8000 series distributor but there is no tach drive, should I change it to another?

5.It has a Holley 750dp now, what do you think? Is there something better for the 454?

6.Should I make any changes to the cam or heads? Im guessing they are original.

7.Any ideas for easy hp increase?

Thanks, I look forward to your replies!!!
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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here is what I choose to run with my 454 build, mild enough to keep good vacuum,
which you really want in a corvette,

To receive better direction you need to spec. want your gonna do,
Race it ? just a street rebuild, how much HP are you looking for ?
at a min. you will have to have the heads reworked or replaced,
go with a gear reduction / mini starter
as a rule most never install a used CAM, they are cheap relatively/ speaking.
more hp? - new heads and pistons

Last edited by 69Vett; Sep 28, 2011 at 01:18 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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For an oil pump I suggest you look at the Melling select series. They have a thicker casting and are less prone to cracking.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:49 PM
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1) You don't need a high-volume pump with standard bearing clearances for street duty. A quality replacement will do.

2) If the electric fuel pump system is working properly, keep it.

3) Heat shield.

4) I'd definitely get the tach working.

5) Carb depends on several factors. 750 is marginal for a stout 454, but if you've an auto trans would hesitate going larger unless you also go with VS.

6) Without knowing your budget (be realistic) and your specific goals/uses for the build, it's hard to say whether you ought to spend $$$ on more than a basic rebuild and cam change. In any event, if the words "high-performance" are among your requirements DO NOT cut corners at the machine shop.

7) You could always just spray and pray, but a modern cam, improving intake and exhaust flow and a super tune (ignition & carb, in that order) are a proven path. Depends on how far you wish to take things as to what combo of such bits fit the bill.

Question for you, do you intend on doing your own assembly, or just designing the build and farming out all work? Either way, IMCO you ought best to read up on engine blueprinting and on building BB's in particular before committing to anything, including the machine shop. My $.02


TSW
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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Key issues before you start working a design:

- Find a good local shop willing to work with a home rebuilder.

- Establish a firm budget that you will live within. All decisions flow from this number.

- Educate yourself on the process. The better you understand the process, the better decisions you'll make.

Last edited by billla; Sep 28, 2011 at 01:58 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:52 PM
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Here is my version-

1) You need a new oil pump. High volume isnt needed provided your machinist does a good job.

2) I prefer a mechanical pump for simplicity and reliability, but if you don't mind the electric then don't worry about it.

3) Use a permanent magnet, gear reduction starter. Here is a good deal on one that will always crank, hot or cold. http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-5809-s...0-sdr0031.aspx

4) I would put in a tach drive distributor, but it isn't important to the engine.

5) A 750 is a good all around carb for a 454. If its working well, keep it.

6) You will need the heads rebuilt anyway. While they are working on them, you could get rectangle port size valves installed (2.19 & 1.88) and a bit of bowl blending done for some easy horsepower if you want to spend a few bucks there. Most definitely get a new cam, preferably something designed in the last 25 years.

7) The cam & heads will be pretty effective at that. Make sure you have a decent compression ratio (not 8:1) and a free flowing exhaust.
I don't know what intake your Holley is sitting on, but that may be another area to update.

As far as Billa's comment about the budget, do not set the budget until you have an idea of the parts involved and what it costs for good ones. The same goes for machine work.
If you blindly decide on a budget before you have an idea of the big picture you will most likely have to cut corners that shouldn't be cut.
In fact, I prefer to never set a firm budget. I find the part that I like for the job, and then figure out how to pay for it.
If your married, you will have to have a very understanding spouse to do things the way I do. Fortunately for me, my wife likes my car.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DRIVESHAFT
As far as Billa's comment about the budget, do not set the budget until you have an idea of the parts involved and what it costs for good ones. The same goes for machine work.
If you blindly decide on a budget before you have an idea of the big picture you will most likely have to cut corners that shouldn't be cut.
In fact, I prefer to never set a firm budget. I find the part that I like for the job, and then figure out how to pay for it.
If your married, you will have to have a very understanding spouse to do things the way I do. Fortunately for me, my wife likes my car.
Everyone approaches their projects differently, but I've seen this approach cause more engines to get "stuck" on the stand than any other cause. If you have unlimited funds, then that's great - if you don't, you better put some numbers in place.

A budget isn't about cutting corners to meet a goal - it's about ensuring the overall goals fall within what you can afford. It's always an iterative process to some extent, but the end result has to fall within your VISA limit

Starting with goals that are clearly outside of your means is the quickest way to get stuck, as is changing course in the middle.

Lots of ways to skin this particular cat...but talk to any company and ask if a project ever - ever - gets approved without a budget estimate in place
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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@TheSkunkWorks: I do plan on helping with assembly, but my nephew will be the one doing the work. He is about to finish a mechanic school and has rebuilt two 350's and a 305 however this will be his first BB.

@Billa: What is a realistic budget for a 454 rebuild? Ive been looking on line at rebuild kits and was thinking or hoping that i could rebuild for 1k. Am I even in the ballpark?

Thanks again for the advice!
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Land Shark
@Billa: What is a realistic budget for a 454 rebuild? Ive been looking on line at rebuild kits and was thinking or hoping that i could rebuild for 1k. Am I even in the ballpark?
In a word, no

If you did just a straight rebuild with some mild performance upgrades you're in the $3-$5K range right out of the gate. 1K likely wouldn't cover the machine work, including the heads...and this is before we start talking parts. This all assumes that everything's in decent shape.

A litte more history on the engine - age, milage, previous rebuilds, current condition, driver for the rebuild decision etc. would help a bunch.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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Sorry it took so long to reply mobile site wasnt working...
I dont know the history of the car. I have only had it for a year. I dont belive it has been rebuilt, it doesnt run that good. Current condition I would say is fair but I really have no clue! Im not looking to blow cars off the track, just a weekend cruiser that has more power than my v6 accord!
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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For 3-5k could'nt I buy a new motor? For that price it does'nt seem worth the trouble of rebuilding since its not the orignal motor.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 11:06 PM
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OK, all good information. Let's back up for a moment We're talking about replacing oil pumps and rebuilding an engine...because it doesn't run well? We've got a bunch of stuff to do first

How do you know the oil pump is "going out"?

I would suggest starting with a good tune before going any further. Most "not running well" situation are due to timing and carb problems/tuning...so that's the place to start - timing first, then carb.

We can get a good feel for the condition of the engine from a compression test and a leak-down test - both of these testers can be purchased from Harbor Frieght relatively cheaply...and they're both easy to use.

Overall, I would spend some time in diagnosis and tuning before you start tearing into the engine. Doing a rebuild these days does cost about what a crate engine costs Once we know the condition and get it running as well as it can - then we can start talking about some simple performance upgrades.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 11:42 PM
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I belive the oil pump is going out because at first start the pressure is around 35-40psi
after reaching operating temp the pressure drops to 5psi while driving when I stop the gauge goes to zero. I was hoping it was the gauge, replaced the gauge and plastic line still get the same reading. I was told that I could change the pump to a high volume pump for a temporary fix. I'll take your advice and do some small fixes before I go spending the kids christmas funds!
Thanks!
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 12:12 AM
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7.Any ideas for easy hp increase?

Stroke it!
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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IMHO, there's probably nothing wrong with the oil pump. Bearings are worn, which drops pressure. I've seen no less than a dozen people swap oil pumps for various reasons, never saw a replacement pump solve the problem.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:20 AM
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How many miles on the motor?

I lot of people don't like it but New rings and bearings with a valve job
freshens up a motor pretty well.

I have an 86 motor home with a 454 and non peanut heads.

Edelbrock cam and manifold headers and dual exhaust.

I've had it up to 100mph and it still had some left.
Were talking 27' South Wind. At 100mph, that's scarey.

Pulls big mountains at 80mph and if I drive it at 60 I've got 14mpg.
Big mountains like Barstow to Flagstaff or Sacramento to Reno.
The curves really slow it down.

I never really cared for the 454 until I built this one.

Ralph

PS I like the high pressure standard volume pumps,
I usually just add the spring to a stock pump.

Ralph
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 05:18 AM
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@Ralph,
I dont know how many miles are on the motor, I havent put more than 100 miles on it in the last year, previous owner said it was his daily driver but I have my doubts about that do to the overwhelming exhaust smell that comes in the cab of the car and the white smoke it produces for about 15min. after being started. I would guess it has high miles. Im wondering if there might be a number on the motor that would identify the year it was made or vehicle it came out of?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 08:29 AM
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Ok Ive been trying to do some homework on this engine, I have some numbers off the back of the block on the drivers side (GM T-14 this series of # 8999289 with a capital P beside the #'s) Ive gooled the heck out of these numbers and cant find anything.

Any idea what these numbers stand for?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 08:42 AM
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Default Stroke it

1. The oil pump is going out, should I replace it with a high volume pump?

Standard oil pump should be fine.

2.It has an electric fuel pump now, should I go back to the mech pump?

Keep it simple, mechanical

3.The Starter has a hard time turning over after it gets hot, Is there a starter out there that can handle the heat from the headers?

Yes lots of smaller gear reduction starters out there

4.It has a Procomp 8000 series distributor but there is no tach drive, should I change it to another?

Summit make an affordable tach drive HEI. I use one.

5.It has a Holley 750dp now, what do you think? Is there something better for the 454?

750dp is fine, reuse if its in good shape, but if its an auto with tall rear gears a vac secondary carb may be better.

6.Should I make any changes to the cam or heads? Im guessing they are original.

Yes you need a new cam the old one will be worn, make cam selection a new thread. If the heads are 049 or 781 they would be worth rebuilding with new valves.

7.Any ideas for easy hp increase?

Get a complete 4.25 stroke rotating assembly. If on a budget, cast crank and hyper pistons are fine. You can even get internal balance cast cranks now. Cubic inches are everything. Enjoy the torque..

Thanks, I look forward to your replies!!![/QUOTE]
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Land Shark
Ok Ive been trying to do some homework on this engine, I have some numbers off the back of the block on the drivers side (GM T-14 this series of # 8999289 with a capital P beside the #'s) Ive gooled the heck out of these numbers and cant find anything.

Any idea what these numbers stand for?
UPDATE TO THIS POST: numbers on passenger side back of block(A 9 74)

Numbers on Manifold intake(336789)
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