I need to run a new fuel line from the tank to the motor and would like to know how some of you have done this without removing the body to route around the rear frame near were the trailing arm connects to the frame.
Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks,
Riggs

 

I recently had the same problem. Bought SS lines from a supporting vendor. Upon inspection, they were going to require some "rebending" in too numerous of places to get into here. A basic, cheapo double flaring tool will not flare SS line.
I ended up Bubba running rubber lines from tank to fuel pump. Wasn't able to get the return line off at the tank end without dropping the tank, so I took a section of the old return line, flared it, and spliced the line.
Before this starts the anti-rubber line tirade, why is rubber OK from the tank to the hard line and from the hard line to the fuel pump, but not OK all the way??
Bottom line is, you can't effectively replace fuel lines with new hard line without taking the body off. The straps alone are a PITA...

 

Hi riggs,
Over the years various members have posted that they've been able to replace the long fuel line. BUT, it's not easy.
I suggest you use the standard Bundy steel line.... it's much easier to bend and unbend than the stainless steel lines.
I believe having the car raised pretty high helps too.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

I recently converted to EFI, and as a result needed to run a return fuel line. I had a vendor make me a 3/8" SS return line pre-bent like the factory 1/4" return line. I removed the passenger rear bumper and losened all 4 passenger side body bolts. I then used a block of wood under the outer rocker edge, and jacked up the passenger side body by almost 2". With the assistance of a friend, I was then able to easily install the fuel line; so it can be done without completely removing the body.

 

7t2vette, That sounds like what I will have to do if I want to stay with a hard line. I'm already contemplating weather or not to pull the body completely off and redue the finish on the frame, and then replace both fuel and brake lines. The front and rear suspension has already been refinished so really it would only involve the frame. I just don't have the space to pull the body off and store it right now.

Has anyone else went with a flexible, maybe breaded steel line? That might not be a bad way to go.

Riggs.

 

Have a friend with a C2 going through the same thing right now. Found a shop he is renting space and just decided pulling the body. Not sure of the C3's body weight, but put together some overhead chain/rope falls to commercial building steel trusses for pulling pick up truck caps, ext. No floor space needed, as up out of the way.

 

When I did mine I looked into steel braided line. Summit has it in 10ft (too short) length, and then 25ft (too long) length. Both lines in 25ft. were approaching $200. This line is the same as unbraided rubber. I bought 18ft at advance, had a couple of feet left over. It was less than $60. Not bad, even for a temp. fix

 

I for got to mention the fuel line will be used for Fuel Injection with a pump in the tank. Any soft line will need to be rated for the higher pressure that is needed for the fuel injection system.

Riggs.

 

Honestly, if I were you, I would go to the trouble to use as much hard line as possible. Yes, soft line is easier and faster to install, but hard line won't break down internally like the soft line will. Whether it is SS braided or not, it is still just rubber inside, and today's gasoline is very hard on rubber. You could use the teflon lined soft line, but it is still vunerable to physical damage, plus as far as I know the fittings are only in steel and have to be crimped on. I could be wrong on that though. Hard line is so much more resistant to external physical damage, and if you use SS hard line, it will last a long, long time. Just my $0.02.

 

Earl's makes stainless braided teflon AN-hose (Speed-flex) and aluminum fittings (Speed-seal) for it. Modern fuels do not harm Teflon hoses like they do rubber.

 

Good to know, thanks!

I have short sections of SS flex lines that I want to replace with the teflon style, so I will look into the Earl's stuff.

 

Once u take the body off its is very likely the car will never run again. Just browse the forum and u will find very, very few body off projects return to service.
I thought i needed to replace my rubber body mounts (well my rear mounts were so rotted i really did need to replace them) so i did a search and i found a post where they replaced the body mounts with the body on - and thats how i did mine.
But for brake line that is way too drastic. It's unlikely u need to replace the entire length of fuel line and u can buy pre-bent lines for that rear frame/trailing arm "loop". Once u get the rear wheel off u can visually see most of the line. And like i said u probably only need to replace a section if any.
I use good old 3/8" brake line and for any small block that is plenty big enough - only a few bucks at any auto store. Just use a good bender and practice double flairs with the extra length u cut off to make the new piece fit in. If u need to raise the body for access (which i doubt) do a forum search first for replacing body mounts. I just removed a lot of bolts and lifted my body one side at a time using a wood 2x4 under the door area to access the body mounts.

If u really need a full new line u can buy them pre-bent but u still have to unroll them and slide them into place under the car. But i bet a good garage/shop can do it in half a day and keep your car going without removing the body. I would spent more time just locating a good garage and get estimates for what they think u need.

Hope this helps,
cardo0

 

cardo0, You should see the car right now, It's missing the motor and trans due to the LS swap that I'm doing. I am trying to clean up the engine bay and frame area to make the engine swap look really nice once done, I swear It would be so easy to pull the frame at this point, just to really clean things up a bit. Would this be the beginning of the, (while I'm in there) money eating cancer that most of the frame off cars go through. LOL

Hard line is what I want. Will see how it goes installing a new fuel line and resisting the temptation of pulling the frame and having it powered coated. I will look into replacing the hard line without doing a body off project, this car has got to be ready to drive again come spring time.

Riggs.

 

Just my 2 cents but regardless of where u are now if u pull the body the car won't be on the road by this spring. Not if u have to work a full time job.
That LS swap is more than enough work - just read Gordons thread on his LS install.

cardo0

 

I used 3/8ths aluminum fuel line from Summit. I use the old steel lines as a template and a tube bender. I did the return line the same way. Took longer to get the old lines off than to replace them.

 

I just installed a braided -10 line, what a PITA. I can get some pics for you tomorrow.