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Please help.... I know that there alot of threads out there about incorrect sending units - got a question, can you order a reproduction temperature gauge and newer sending unit together so that will work instead of trying to continue buying temperature sending units.
Is there not a simple answer..... I have ordered one from Zip, Lectric Limited, Ecklers,etc... yes I have enough to open my own temperature sending unit store. I would rather at this point to get a new reproduction gauge and sending unit that are mated together that work. Where are the experts out there?
You dont need the original. They have a section of the site where you input 1972 Corvette, I assumed thats what you have your profile doesnt list it, and this is the part number for your car 06490453. Is that what your previously ordered?
All the reproduction senders are off, even Lectric Limiteds. I know, I have one. The easiest thing to do is to install a new sender and then recalibrate your gauge. It is not as hard as it sounds.
Basically, you remove the resistor from the back. Then install a variable resistance circuit in its place. Then adjust the resistance so the gauge reads correctly. After that, you can either build a new resistance circuit or just leave the adjustable one in place.
I just installed a new sender, and it's off by 10 degrees. My old temp. reading was 180-190 on gauge and on radiator thermostat. Now my gauge reads 200, while my rad. thermo. still says 190......
I have also tried couple of sending units only to find out that they all are pretty far off. The best was marked TS6 (don't remember the manufacturer) followed by BW 203WT and the worst I tested was LL. They all show too low. I now have a 470 ohm resistor parallel to the sender to make it a bit more accurate, however since the sending unit is not linear the resistor makes it spot on accurate only at a certain point...
If I remember right willcox site has a reference table to test your temp gauge. I tested mine to be ok so the problem is with the senders. I doubt there's a repro gauge that is matched to a certain sending unit, but maybe someone has found a pair that matches.
I wonder if some aftermarket temp gauge could be fitted with the original gauge face??
I too tried 3 different senders incl. Lectric Limited's "correct one" and they all read low. And this happened to friend of mine too. Have given up with that. Will probably replace the gauges with after market stuff at some point.
I am just beginning to plan my winter projects and one chore is getting the temp gauge to work. I too have tried various sensors, without results.
I see in the Eckler's catalog that they have a temp gauge listed with an "*", that refers to statement that a particular sender must be used for the correct temperature reading. I am not sure if this is an answer to your original question of a matched pair, but this sound pretty close.
I haven't started my investigation yet. Not sure if it is the sensor, gauge, or disconnected wires. I did a frame off a few years ago and the gauge has not moved since. I check periodically with a hand held infrared gun to be sure nothing is overheating.
Good thread! My temp gauge on my '72 dosen't work very good either. It barely moves above 120+/-. So I see the price at Lectric Limited is $25 and the WT2032 at Advance Auto is $5.99. I can live with a not 100% accurate reading (as long as it's not too far off). $5.99 sounds like it's worth trying at least.
Good thread! My temp gauge on my '72 dosen't work very good either. It barely moves above 120+/-. So I see the price at Lectric Limited is $25 and the WT2032 at Advance Auto is $5.99. I can live with a not 100% accurate reading (as long as it's not too far off). $5.99 sounds like it's worth trying at least.
When Roger did his testing the Advance Auto sender was the most accurate one.
When Roger did his testing the Advance Auto sender was the most accurate one.
Rick B.
And even this will vary from unit to unit. I have tested so many of these things I started getting calcium on the test stand we made. I could take 5 wells TU5 or the Borg units and get different readings. I charted all this a long time ago.. The issue is that I've not seen 1 reproduction sender with oil in it or the correct thermister. Even went to the trouble to tear them apart... I'll call that the Roger syndrome...
Some people have had luck with finding one that worked close and we even had one customer purchased a TU5 from us and then posted a thread about how accurate it was.
You might get lucky but in my mind the best way to solve this issue is to introduce resistance on the gauge.
I just replaced my stock sending unit with a WT203Z from Advance Auto. The stock unit gave me a reading of around120 degrees. I now get a reading of around 200 degrees fully warmed up. It may not be 100% accurate but for $6 it sure is a lot more accurate than it was.
This may help you.. but you must remember even the dash units will vary on input. You find a sender that puts out these numbers, you've found a winner!
TEMPERATURE GAUGE Input Requirement 1968-1974
TEMP OR MARK OHMS
100--------------220
1ST MARK--------109
210-------------- 79
2ND MARK-------- 65
250-------------- 51
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Oct 29, 2011 at 12:49 PM.
When I checked the new unit prior to installing it, I got a reading of 100 OHMS when I placed in in boiling water. I think more than anything else I'll use the current reading as a bench mark. If I see it increase above where it normally lives I'll know I have an overheating problem. I'm not overly concerned knowing the exact temperature of the coolant. I have 2 other vehicles that don't have gauges, just idiot lights and this is so much of an improvement. Thank you for the great information.
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
This may help you.. but you must remember even the dash units will vary on input. You find a sender that puts out these numbers, you've found a winner!
TEMPERATURE GAUGE Input Requirement 1968-1974
TEMP OR MARK OHMS
100--------------220
1ST MARK--------109
210-------------- 79
2ND MARK-------- 65
250-------------- 51
100 ohms is not a bad variance. This would put you probably 1/2 the way between the first mark and 210. The change (variance) is non-linear so tiny changes at the higher temp end of the scale will make a huge difference.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Oct 30, 2011 at 09:55 AM.
100 ohms is not a bad variance. This would put you probably 1/2 the way between the first mark and 210. The change (variance) is non-linear so tiny changes at the higher temp end of the scale will make a huge difference.
Hello again Sir. Just read this information about the water temp gauge. Will also keep the part number in mind, and the OHM numbers. Respectfully, Frank