Red 69

My apologies, I corrected the weight in my post above; the L-88 hood weighs 25 pounds. I needed to weigh it in my hand and subtract my body weight. My bad!

Tumarr

well here is VFN fiberglass's vette section
http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm
If youwant really light weight, get the pin on and use about 8 moroso 1/4 turn fastners to hold it down. not only is the hood less then 15 lbs but you can take off your latches, and hinges

Bee Jay

I've read several times over the years that the best way to strip paint off of a Corvette is with razor blades. I found it hard to beleive but I tried it this weekend. Damn! it works, works really good. The paint stips right off with very little effort. It works best in the sun, but not so good with a heat gun. The paint doesn't weigh much though, I'm still at 35lbs.

Red 69

That cleaned the paint off easily. I don't believe you will take more than a few pounds off by grinding the fiberglass on the underside.

The plan for my stock hood was to place a stop on a drill bit and drill guide bores, as a depth guide for uniform grinding. My plan did not include removing the substructure. You already did well getting it down to 35 pounds, consequence of sacrificed strength remains to be seen.

My lighter Ecklers hood is made from hand laid fiberglass, not chopped and shot from a gun. This makes it stronger per pound and why the factory hood is much heavier IMO.

At one time, I approached a manufacturer of fiberglass body parts to simply make the outer hood skin in laid fiberglass with a higher rise. My thought was to replace the factory hood skin to the substructure. They were not interested in this project. My thought was the hood frame was the lightest part, but I was just guessing. Good luck...I'm watching and learning!

RobbSalzmann

Not really - Curiosity is the father of invention.

I enjoy reading about your "experiments"!

TheSkunkWorks

Agree hand-laid is better pound for pound, but back in my drag racing days the chopped bumpers, hoods and decklids we ran weren't heavy at all. Then again, they weren't exactly built for durability...

Bee Jay

Tonight I tried to design my vent hole. This is what I came up with. What does everyone think?

gkull

Bee Jay, You need to do the yarn test out driving and see what the air flow looks like at 60 mph. Depending on rake of your car can change how far back is actualy straight higher pressure air flow.

Holes are easy to repair if you use a hole saw and keep the piece you took out. Then use your yarn as to which way the air is going at speed

TheSkunkWorks

You may not be too far off, if any, but I agree with George to do a yarn test before committing since you want to make certain and avoid any higher pressure flow area. However, as long as the pressure is higher beneath the hood vents than it is above them they'll move air the right direction. I'd also watch not to end up with them too near the cowl if you happen to move them.

Have you thought about fender well vents? IIRC Tracy Performance has the real ones complete w/baffles.

RobbSalzmann

BeeJay:

As far as shape and style of the openings, I like it a lot. It "agrees" with the shape of the headlight covers and the lines of the hood and feels proportional to the hood itself. I haven't a clue if its correct for airflow

Bee Jay

I drew the two vent shapes so that the lines were parallel with the front hood line, the side hood line, and the line along the base of the bulge. Then I cut them out with a 2" radius at the corners. That was worth two whole pounds. I'm down to 33 lbs.

TheSkunkWorks

Cooling, weight and looks aside, the first order issue at speed will be how much pressure differential you gain or loose above relative to beneath the hood. Might not seem enough to be worth consideration, but a difference of only 0.05 PSI over an area of just under 14 sq.ft. adds up to 100# change to lift/downforce picture at the area in question. Of course, with the cowl area open...

Bee Jay

I got the hood down to 30lbs this weekend. It's as light as I dare. The weight will go up slightly from here as I prime and then paint it. Any pictures of hoods painted something other than black on the underside? I'm just thinking.
Bee Jay.

yellow 72

I splatter painted the underside of my hood along with the engine bay and other 'stuff' with body color matching acrylic enamel.

Little Mouse

Seems like i remember when the 80 came out they lightened the t-tops, seats and weight off the frame rear suspension. Talk about up high weight. The big 79 rear window weight and t-tops a place to take weight out.

Bee Jay

HOT DAMN!!!! Lookie at what I found at SEMA. There was only one C3 there this year, but it was right on time for me. This is Kevin Quirks yellow C3. He got the same idea I got last year about installing a $600 ZR1 window in his hood. He tried it and it didn't work out. The wrong shape, wrong contour, etc. So he designed a hood window that works with the C3 hood and called it the "Powerportal". The front of the window matches the C3 bulge and front of the hood shape. His has an L-88 hood, but he had a stock hood also with his window. I got really excited and they let me have one for 10% off and of course no shipping or tax. The frame comes in either ready to paint, brushed stainless, or black powdercoat. I bought one with the black powder coat frame. It comes in two lengths, 20" and 23". The clear window part is Lexan. You can get yours at: powerportalproducts.com
The retail price is $289.00 I can't wait to install this on my custom hood. You can see all of my other SEMA pictures here:
http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...011/?start=all

couperdecar

No sorry - not feeling it. The ZR1 window shows off.... an air cleaner? If there was a blower under there - OK. I do like your idea about the vents though. In your previous post you had a red hood with some black vents. That it for me. Just my 2cents.

TheSkunkWorks

Sorry, I'm not feeling it either. If I could buy a new ZR1 the very first thing I'd do would be to replace the windowed hood. JMO

RobbSalzmann

I think Yellow 72 has it right by sticking it through the hood

Bee Jay

All you see on a real ZR1 is a plastic engine cover. You don't even see the blower. You will see my powder coated valve covers, my powder coated RPM Air Gap and my Holley Fuel Injection. Also, I'm thinking that the Lexan is lighter than the fiberglass it's replacing. Who knows, maybe there is a supercharged 427 engine in my future. Maybe a ZR1.
Bee Jay